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The jig was good enough that the lower arm can be fliped over and fit in either way. The 2 uppers are exactly alike. I fishmouthed all the tubes with my handy dandy trusty angle grinder, lots of fitting and a little bit of trial and error. I did screw up my first try at a lower arm (not pictured).

When I get a chance I will post up the dimensions fo the jig. These are built around using s10 steering knuckles, and this design is adjustable for camber, and caster. Toe will be adjustable with the steering rack.

very impressive!

Derf,
Swwwwwwwwwwwwwwweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet, nicely done!

At first I thought WTF, then I remembered the ball joints and later I saw how your were useing the heim joints. Ah the big light went off over my head.

The only thing I noticed undone is the shock mounts, but very nicely done.

_________________
I'll keep an eye out for you!

To err is human...
I am more human than most.

Hey Derf...nice job..

Which ball joints are those?

Yes, I am trying to use a hi-tech looking front suspension, still undecided as to if it should be a pull rod (like steve grabber) or a pushrod. I am actually leaning very heavily toward the pull rod type.

This will save on space, be adjustable, and just look bad ass (plus it works too)

The ball joints are again from the dirt track guys, but the label marked them as pinto ball joint.

They are similar to press in units, but they screw in. The collars on my A arms are threaded too and the ball joint just screws in. I need to cut my old suspension tabs off before I can mount these, then I am going to work on mounting the shocks (which I still havn't done).

Someone I work with (who is a homebuilt nay-sayer) explained to me how the way the heims are that I can also correct any inconsistency in the chassis. My chassis is off center by less than 1/16", but he says that it will be a real big deal.I don't think that 1/16" matters.

Doesn't matter at all...he should go and measure a few real cars...

I did a chalk line of his pathfinder when he first told me that it's not going to drive straight, his is off by an inch between the front and rear wheels. He told me my chalk wasnt straight

By chance, could you send me a set a measurements of your arms?

I would like to build mine like that.

I'm going to take measurements of the arms as soon as I can, and draw a diagram. I am only going to draw up one design for each, as they are reversable.

***DISCLAIMER***

The only thing is that i havnt tried them out on the car yet, so they still may be wrong. I based them off the dimensions of my old modified westfield suspension, which looked good as far as camber, caster, steering, and suspension travel. I'm going under the assumption that they work as planned but I cant verify this yet...

Do you have a source for the ball joint bracket I would like to use the screww in ball joints.

Jason Robb

I went to a dirt track store.

lawrence-engineering.com

For those intersted I found a source here:

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp7.htm

Thats exactly what I bought, however the ball joints there are much more expensive, I think I paid $16 for each, but the screw in sleeves are cheaper I paid $12 for each of mine...

Derf. Looks like you are doing a bang-up, top-notch job! I like!

What dia tube are you using? Is it DOM?

What are your plans for load spreaders across the arms?

Was it you that made that cool visual method for determining roll-centers? I was looking for those files the other day... For my next build I am designing uprights from scratch. Using a Toyota MR2 SW20 front axle stub and bearing.