LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently Sat Dec 20, 2014 6:21 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Homebrew Rust Remover
PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 3:15 am 
http://www.wr6wr.com/newSite/articles/c ... p0906.html

Giving credit where credit due.

Quote:
Originally posted by Gunner1
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthr ... ?tid=58877
I have found by far, the best rust removal solution is six parts water to one part black strap molases (the kind you get at our local horse feed market.
I take a 45 gal rubbermaid tub and make up the solution. It lasts for months (as long as you scrape the mould off the top) and it works fantastic. It will not attack paint or grease, so you take car of that first, then into the molasses for a week or so and the parts come out perfect! Just hose them off. Strange, but honest, it really works. And when you are done, just heave the mixture (basically sugar and iron oxide) onto your lawn with no ill effect!


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 11:54 am 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: Fri Dec 22, 2006 2:05 pm
Posts: 4886
Concrete cleaner from Home Depot, Lowes, etc is diluted hydrochloric acid. It must be diluted further and the fumes are very unhealthy. Seriously bad stuff. It removes rust in a few minutes. Leave it too long and the part will be gone. It's best not to use it at all, just fyi.

_________________
Growing various fruit trees, berry bushes, and wine grapes in zone 7b.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:42 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Metro Detoit
I use the Muratic Acid (diluted HCL) to remove the old zinc plating from parts before I replate them. If you are careful, use it in a VERY well ventilated area, and don't leave the part in there too long (if it's cold, it works slower) it works wonders. The parts come out like new. Works to get ALL the rust out of exhaust manifolds that have been found in JY. The HCL reacts slower to the cast iron and doesn't do as much damage to the structure. On steel parts, it will eat thru it pretty fast if you are not careful. I've used it for years now with great results. Just have to be very careful, and I mean very careful. When I get it it's diluted about 25:1 and I dilute it further so the reaction doens't happen too fast or too violently. If it's not diluted further, it will bubble up quite seriously, and release a lot of nasty fumes. There are safer removers of rust and plating now available that are reasonably priced. Eastwood has good products as well as some vendors on ebay. I've tried a lot of them with good results. I still use Muratic Acid becasue I have a lot in stock. Once it's gone, I will be changing over to something different. It does an awsome job of cleaning your driveway as well as cleaning the garage floor before painting.

_________________
Build sold to a new loving home. May start another one when I have more time to devote to it. For now I play with my boat, Datsun 240Z, and GS700 motorcycle.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 12:25 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:13 pm
Posts: 7048
Location: Charleston, WV
Does this work better than the electrolysis method?

_________________
He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:02 pm 
Offline
Databases fear me
User avatar

Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2006 7:02 pm
Posts: 890
Location: Lethbridge Alberta
the electrolysis method works well, but even though the chemicals used are benign the stuff produced in the reaction are extreemly toxic so I've been told.(no odor or taste to it, but can cause cancer and a lot of nastyness)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:24 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:42 pm
Posts: 457
Location: Metro Detoit
The released chemicals aren't so bad if you don't use a stainless anode. If you use a steel anode, it's basicly hydrogen and oxygen. The steel anode will need cleaned and replaced a lot more than if you used a stainless anode, but the stainless anode is VERY dangerous. That is the one that makes the nastiness. Normally I use a scrap chunk of re-rod.

_________________
Build sold to a new loving home. May start another one when I have more time to devote to it. For now I play with my boat, Datsun 240Z, and GS700 motorcycle.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:11 am 
Feed store molases - $1.54 gal
Tap water .03 6 gal
Timeframe - 1 week
Worked a treat - free


I took a rusty pair of channel locks and put in the brew for a week came out looking nearly new, no rust. A light coating of the original rust was on the pliers but it rubbed off with fingernail. No fumes, no expensive chemicals, and no electricity.


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 10:44 am 
I can attest to the molasses method - my buddy uses this all the time. He put in a pair of Triumph seat runners that he's using on his Locost...they were a pile of rust when they went in to the mixture. After a few days, he fished them out and we holed them off with tap water. Looked like new, and all the mechanism worked like new as well! A quick coat of paint, and you'd never know they weren't new aftermarket items....


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2007 1:04 pm 
Offline

Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 10:57 am
Posts: 610
Very cool! Heheh Much better than hours scrubbing with naval jelly.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 6:31 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:23 pm
Posts: 1
Would this brew work by spraying it on rusted sheet, or does the part have to be immeresed?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2007 11:49 pm 
I believe that it must be immeresed since it is not a fast process. A warning, the part to be cleaned MUST be fully immeresed or the part sticking above the goo WILL rust. Guess how I know. You still get to do a bit of light scrubbing. I use a scotchbright and a small stainless welding brush. To cut down on reusting I have been doing a final polish with scotch bright and PB Blaster.

I have been debating using this on a realy crusty Bronco frame that is going under my Jeep YJ. If I do this I will simply make a 2x4 frame that fits around the frame and use some 6mil garden vynal to make a small above ground pool that would be filled with molassas/water.


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 8:41 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 8:08 pm
Posts: 36
Location: Indianapolis
jmanz6 wrote:
I use the Muratic Acid (diluted HCL) to remove the old zinc plating from parts before I replate them. If you are careful, use it in a VERY well ventilated area, and don't leave the part in there too long (if it's cold, it works slower) it works wonders. The parts come out like new. Works to get ALL the rust out of exhaust manifolds that have been found in JY. The HCL reacts slower to the cast iron and doesn't do as much damage to the structure. On steel parts, it will eat thru it pretty fast if you are not careful. I've used it for years now with great results. Just have to be very careful, and I mean very careful. When I get it it's diluted about 25:1 and I dilute it further so the reaction doens't happen too fast or too violently. If it's not diluted further, it will bubble up quite seriously, and release a lot of nasty fumes. There are safer removers of rust and plating now available that are reasonably priced. Eastwood has good products as well as some vendors on ebay. I've tried a lot of them with good results. I still use Muratic Acid becasue I have a lot in stock. Once it's gone, I will be changing over to something different. It does an awsome job of cleaning your driveway as well as cleaning the garage floor before painting.



$.02 from the coatings salesperson...

BE VERY CAREFUL with muriatic acid. Very. As said above, ventilation and dilution are extremely important to watch. Ignoring this can result in tragedy.

That said, the stuff is very effective in a lot of applications.

_________________
www.indybillsbackers.moonfruit.com


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY