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PostPosted: May 23, 2010, 8:44 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
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Location: meadview arizona
here is a brief rundown on the original plan,

may i say from the start, this is not the first locost i have built, when i lived in england, i was involved with a build at the college i worked at as an instructor.
this car was based almost completely on the book save the engine set back which was for the most part, dictated by the position of the gear shifter on the escort transmission.

now where were we, oh yes the criterior for this build.

1. be economical.
2. be fuel injected.
3. use merkur scorpio (u.k. ford granada) axles and spindles cos i have them and independant realy is the way to go at the rear.
4. use a commoly available modern drive train.
5. have something different from other locosts.
6. be able to do some parking lot racing.


the first thing was economy, well with the weight, this was a no brainer but it had to be built economically, which meant that i would have to make as much as i could myself.

second was fuel injection, not aftermarket but the factory stuff, no mega squirt here, just the parts that came with the donor.

the third is self explanitory.

forth was drive train choice, i managed to aquire a wrecked 2003ford ranger complete, there are times when i wished i didn't.

fifth was to make it different, only time will tell.

lastly, well a locost, need i say more.

i chose a 442 chassis because the engine would need as much room as posible, the rear track on the scorpio axle was wide and although the duratec is an inline four, its quite wide too.

as on the last build, i would set the engine back as far as possible as electric fans don't seem to work very well out here in arizona, i wanted the radiator to be in the engine bay where it could be serviced by a viscouse fan clutch driven from the original ranger fan bearing in the timing cover.

the ranger engine is, pehaps not the best choice of duratec, as i also had to replace the entire intake and throttle body with focus units, also changing the fuel rail for a focus one with rear fuel entry and the pcv valve and hose.

i chopped the ac part off the ally bracket but retained the original altenator, adding an idler pulley to allow the original belt routing, next i removed the power steering pump and fabricated a new bracket and yet another idler pulley.

there seems to be a lot of people out there buying very expencive top water pipes but in this case i just shortened the one i had with the engine, fabricating a suitable bracket attached to the altenator bracket also providing a new mounting point for the top of the dip stick which required bending backwards slightly.

the ignition coil was removed from the valve cover and placed on a bracket at the rear of the valve cover away from exhaust heat and a set of v-tec plug wires were modified to fit the holes in the valve cover.

a new water pipe was fabricated to feed the egr valve and header tank from the thermostat housing.

lastly a throttle cable bracket was fabricated to suit the focus throttle body and utilizing the ranger cable.

that dealt with the engine but still left the clutch hydraulics and the shifter, which, although setting the engine back, still needed a remote to bring it within my reach, i removed the plug and play fitting on the hydraulic release bearing and fitted a part from speedway motors to take a -3 hose, all inside the bell housing.

these were the extent of the mods to fit the drive train but my pan hangs below the chassis by 1.5 inches so when i can afford a cosworth pan i will fit one.

note that my intension was to be emmisions correct for the engine/ ranger chassis for a 2003 ford ranger, obd 2 compatable for any diagnosis in the future, due to having a pats security system on this model, i also found a way to install the ranger steering column, ignition switch and instrument cluster.

Attachment:
front.jpg

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side car.jpg small.jpg

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front susp.jpg v small.jpg

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rear susp.jpgsmall.jpg

Attachment:
front car small.jpg

Attachment:
cockpit small.jpg

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engine small.jpg

Attachment:
rear.jpg


the rear suspension is pritty self-explanatory, hiem joints all round, the shocks are qa-1 with 220 lb. springs and off the shelf toe adjusters from mid-west controls and speedway motors.

the front suspension is a little different,made from 1" x.125 wall tube due to their length there are no bell cranks but the lower arms have an additional rod to the top of the shocks, giving approx 1 to 1 ratio and three inner pivots, the shocks are qa-1 with 12" by 110 lb. springs, the steering rack is from dan's performance in cal. as is the steering column and u-joints.

the pivot points on the chassis are from ballistic here in az, man did i use a lot of them standardized throughout the chassis, the diff is also mounted with them, 33 pairs, laser cut with a .500 hole @ $2.and change.

the rear uprights are fabricated from 4x3 box, using the bearing carriers from the original arms fitted to the scorpio and again, ballistic brackets.

the gas tank came from a ford exploder 2 door and fitted perfectly, the fuel pump is inside the tank, the wiring harness from the ranger had to be modified to connect the tank electrics by removing 2 plugs and combining them into the explorer plug, the wires have the same color code so it's a snap.

the evap canister is mounted under the spare wheel and is stock ranger.

in case you were wondering what the nose is, it's a vintage sprint car nose from speedway motors


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Last edited by john hennessy on May 24, 2010, 12:52 am, edited 11 times in total.

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PostPosted: May 23, 2010, 9:51 pm 
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The voice of reason
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Welcome and thanks for starting a build log. They are a big help and inspiration for everybody. I hope you can get us picks soon. Surprised on your radiator decisions, ( a picture will help here ) but you'll know soon enough if you've done the right thing.

More threads and info on Duratechs are a good thing too. People will be interested in your issues and fixes for the Ranger motor, this is a good help!
:cheers:

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PostPosted: May 23, 2010, 10:32 pm 
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Joined: July 6, 2008, 11:15 am
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Location: Cave Creek, AZ
John,

Very nice. I'd like to see a closeup of those front shocks and their pivots; they look cool. I'm in Cave Creek, where are you located? And do you have a two-post lift in your garage!

Tom

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PostPosted: May 23, 2010, 10:38 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
yes i do have a two post lift in my garage

i am located in meadview, just north of kingman on the south side of lake mead

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PostPosted: May 23, 2010, 11:01 pm 
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john hennessy wrote:
yes i do have a two post lift in my garage

i am located in meadview, just north of kingman on the south side of lake mead



Dang. That's like 4 time zones away from me.

Tom

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PostPosted: May 24, 2010, 12:47 am 
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Location: meadview arizona
Off Road SHO wrote:
John,

Very nice. I'd like to see a closeup of those front shocks and their pivots; they look cool. I'm in Cave Creek, where are you located? And do you have a two-post lift in your garage!

Tom

i also have a 1700 sq. ft air conditioned shop, a mig welder, a tig welder, gas welder, plasma cutter, blasting cabinate and a press, as well as a 16ft. long build table on wheels, and oh yes, the sweetest antique sun engine performance tester, ( no i'm not a mechanic ) but i am a member of s.a.e.

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PostPosted: May 24, 2010, 10:00 am 
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I need to see all that the next time we're heading to Vegas. I think I've read your posts on another Forum I frequent, maybe SHOFORUM or MerkurSport?

Tom

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PostPosted: June 1, 2010, 4:20 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
so now its time to do the back,

having buolt one before, and as this one was a 4-4-2, so bigger, and having made it taller with a higher cowl and sprint car nose, the rear of the cockpit needs to match.

having raised the cockpit rear now i had to design a back.
the spare wheel has to fit ( full size) although flat,
as short as possible,
not too tall cos i'm not building a pick-up here although thats a thought for a later build,
not too square,
somewhere to fit the lights and tags,
opening trunk lid,
and a bit of style thrown in,

oh i almost foregot, it has to be removable to get the gas tank in and out

this is where i am now.

Attachment:
rear body 1.jpg

Attachment:
rear body 2.jpg

Attachment:
rear body 2.jpg


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PostPosted: June 4, 2010, 11:39 am 
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yesterdays additions to the back, the trunk lid.


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trunk lid1.jpg

Attachment:
trunk lid2.jpg


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PostPosted: June 4, 2010, 11:56 am 
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I like the way you are adding the extended rear headrest IN SPITE OF the Solstice/Sky. They ruined the concept.

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PostPosted: June 4, 2010, 4:16 pm 
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cool build, but i cant lie those front lower control arms and how they mount to the shocks really scare me. The will need some extreme bracing and gusseting for them to survive. Do you have any access to any type of FEA?

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PostPosted: June 4, 2010, 7:30 pm 
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i understand what you say, but the spring rate is very low,110 lbs, its attached to the frame in 3 locations to 3 tubes, thats a total of 6 lugs has a brace between the long arms and a diagonal to prevent any twist.

compare this to some of the nodding dog bell cranks and the way they attatch to the frame, i've seen a lot of them tear the frame rail, and they use a 2-1 or worse ratio, mine is 1-1

they are also made from .125 wall, 1" tube.

i have measured the deflection in the lower pivots, to see if they move out of alignment with the bolt out of the center pivot, it didn't move at 600lbs. which is more than the springs would generate.

i would be more concerned with a book chassis snaping off the top shock mount, or tearing the 1'x1 .064 wall tube it's weded to.

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PostPosted: January 7, 2011, 2:24 pm 
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so i am unemployed again, boy this economy is hard, but at least i can get some of the car done,

it is, at present the same as the last pictures so i will start by finishing what i started and make the trunk lid skin and a hinged tubular frame to support it.

then i suppose i should deal with front and rear lights, then little things like brake pipe fixings.

while i'm here, does anyone have any info on duratec engine modules, like re chipping to remove the p.a.t.s. because until that is done i can't start the thing.

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PostPosted: December 8, 2011, 3:13 pm 
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i'm still here and still unemployed so i have some time on my hands to do some more to the car, thats when i don't go through periods of hate and regrets for even starting the project. still i'm into it for some $6000.00 or so and must justify its existance.
i have been making all sorts of little pieces like grills for the sides of the hood and side panels.
installing rear lights by frenching them in the rear body, i used land rover lights as they are realy cheep.
paneling the floor front to back, even the rear wish bones.
plumbing in the fuel system and egr without using expensive fittings.
making a fibreglass cover in the trunk over the fuel tank.
front and rear mud guards.
windshield wiper system.
air intake and filter box.
sprint car style front and rear bumpers.
a tow bar.
a drive shaft.
park brake cables.

so now i'm close to puting some paint on it, i had to remove some surface rust on the frame due to the slow progress with phosfo so will now order the primer, acid etch i think, and about a gallon for the whole car, followed by some 2k primer on the outside of the body.

the only thing i haven't done is weld on some brake pipe tabs for the flexi/steel transision o i must either do that now or attach them with screws or rivets later. but to stop the chassis rusting again paint is priority.

man its cold in the shop so i am going in the house now, bye!

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PostPosted: December 12, 2011, 9:02 pm 
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Location: 1 mile west of turn 3, Indy 500
I've been looking at those speedway noses too. Perfect fit? or what mods did you do? Good lookin' car,love the rearend too. Did the ranger intake hit the firewall or why the change/

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