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PostPosted: November 22, 2015, 4:42 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
This house if full of "WTF did that last guy do" wiring stuff. Which is strange since it was built in the 1980's, not like it's an old house.

One thing that I found yesterday is that every outlet in my bedroom is wired for non-switched power. And also for half-hot switched power - every outlet has a red wire attached to it as well as a black wire (and of course, a white wire). And no, they didn't break that little tab thingy on the outlets. So it appears as though (fortunately) nothing observable happens when I flip the light switch, but (basically) I have 2 sets of wires feeding the same outlets when the light switch is on.... uh, is that correct? Cause, you know, no light show, no smoke, no fire.

'Cause, normally, I get smoke and fire escaping when something isn't wired correctly -- whomever did this must've been lucky?

QUESTION --

Let me know if I'm correct here. The correct way to fix this is:

1. Select the outlet that I'd like to be switched, and break that little tab thingy between the circuits, keeping the red wire attached to the top half of the outlet (half-hot).

2. Unhook the red wire from the rest of the outlets, but keep the wiring in place just in case somewhere later we'd like another switched outlet, etc. Hell, would be a great time to install a couple of those USB outlets while I'm at it.


3. Enjoy the switched outlet(s).

4. Contemplate what the guy did to the obvious home wiring job for my garage.....

Thanks!

Tim Wohlford
aka geek49203

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PostPosted: November 22, 2015, 6:52 pm 
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The only step you forgot was the Rum. :cheers:

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PostPosted: November 22, 2015, 10:58 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
1) If it was done the way it was done in my house, that red wire was simply stripped and looped over the screw terminals. After disconnecting them, I would cut that loop and then use a wire nut to connect the two ends and insulate it in each of the affected outlets.

2) Just remove that tab thingy on the HOT side of the receptacle. Leave the white side tab in place.

3) And just in case you don't know, the Rum comes after the job is complete, not before. :cheers:

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PostPosted: November 23, 2015, 1:19 am 
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Yes you are correct. But I would second what Chuck I think is saying. I never run the actual house wire to the receptacle, rather a pigtail that is wire nutted to the house wiring.

I'm assuming that the red wire feeds from the switch location.

Tom

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PostPosted: November 23, 2015, 10:34 am 
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I've found that local building codes can vary a LOT. And some of it makes no sense at all.


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PostPosted: November 23, 2015, 11:19 am 
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What I was trying to say is the house wiring from the switch may be one continuous wire. Stripping a length at each outlet and looping that exposed wire around one screw terminal. When that is removed from the outlet, the stripped wire is difficult to insulate. Wrapping electrical tape around the exposed wire is not a "good" solution IMO in spite of it's name. I would cut the exposed wire and wire-nut the two new ends together.

Whether wiring a pigtail from the outlet to the "house wiring" is a good idea or not.... My thought is that it not necessary if using the screw terminal(s) for connection. If you are using the push in holes, and relying on the spring contact internally, I would definitely recommend the pigtail, if you have the extra room for the wire nut in the box.

But...... while you are at it, why not take the opportunity to update to current codes and add the arc detection breaker or receptacles and/or baby safe receptacles? Or you can just rewire the existing outlets like I did :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: November 23, 2015, 2:24 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
My first house was plumbed by its first owner - a plumber. It was a nightmare - I swear, there wasn't a single piece of copper more than 2' long in that house. No doubt, entirely made from cast-offs from job sites.

My second house was wired by its builder - an electrician. Again, cast-off city. Everything worked, but...when I needed to make a modification, an awful lot of head scratching went along with the job. Or maybe it was a lot of awful head scratching! Sure were a lot of imponderables, though.

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PostPosted: November 23, 2015, 6:43 pm 
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Another possibility is that two separate circuits feed the outlets, using 3 wire cable.
White to neutral bar goes to all and all are grounded green or bare, but red comes from one cb and black from another.
More than one wire on either side would be a jumper to the next parallel outlet in the circuit. He may have his color codes crossed up.

Once you have working outlets, there are several options on the switch connections, but obviously it must be in series to the first of the outlets you wish to be switched.

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