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PostPosted: August 6, 2019, 11:34 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
I need to replace the spider gears in my ford 7.5 diff and I have sheared off the small bolt that hold the pin that the spider gears rotate on :ack: . You can hardly get a wrench on the bolt, Vs even getting a drill in the area. I' m thinking maybe I could chisel off the "C" clips on the axles so I could pull the axles. Any one have any suggestions. Davew


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PostPosted: August 6, 2019, 3:54 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
With the bolt head gone, the remaining piece may not have much load on it. The seared face may have some rough edges such that a dental pic may be able to impart enough torque to the outer edge of the bolt to get it to rotate.


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PostPosted: August 6, 2019, 5:36 pm 
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Just need a foot long drill bit to put the drill chuck out to where the axle tube starts or a drill arbor like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-Righ ... 1980753886

You might try a little heat to break down the thread locker if there is any.
Last resort would be drilling the end of the cross pin along the bolt to where you can punch it free of the bolt so you can rotate that with vice grips to get it out. The oem pin may not have much depth to the heat treat.

Like Seven13b said, it should come out easy if you can grab it.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: August 6, 2019, 9:54 pm 
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Joined: November 15, 2009, 9:58 pm
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Location: Port Angeles. Wa
I have used a stick arc welder to "stick" the rod onto the end of the bolt and just unscrew the broken bolt. Good Luck!!!!

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My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6


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PostPosted: August 6, 2019, 10:30 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
The lock pin must be harden, because my 90* drill bit will not touch it. So I made a fork the width of the "C" and was able to drive out the "C" clip on the LH axle, in only about 5 minute. [This is going to be easy :oops: ] Then for the next 5 hours I tried to get the RH "C clip out. At that point the smoke wrench cut through the spider gear shaft, so I could finally pull the RH axle. I already have another center section lined up, [open Vs LSD] but the price was really good "FREE". So now I just have to clean the diff housing really good and then set - up the diff clearances. The shims, crush sleeve, and other parts should be here Friday.
Davew


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PostPosted: August 7, 2019, 5:19 am 
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Makes me appreciate the suzuki axle design with a drop out center section, with the axles retained at the hubs like a ford 9 inch. I bought a 4.30 diff for $75 to swap out later. The 5.12 diff will have me turning 2000-3000 at 46-70 mph with 28 inch tires and .70 od.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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