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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 4, 2021, 4:46 pm 
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ale62 wrote:
nice to meet you all. I'm Alex...
Well hello back at ya Alex, great to have another enthusiast on the site.
Where you from? What are you thinking of building? What is your garage/shop/ tool situation?
Great bunch of people on this site with tons of knowledge, I know I learn something every day from this site.
:cheers:

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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: May 4, 2021, 4:47 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
ale62 wrote:
nice to meet you all. I'm Alex...
Well hello back at ya Alex, great to have another enthusiast on the site.
Where you from? What are you thinking of building? What is your garage/shop/ tool situation?
Great bunch of people on this site with tons of knowledge, I know I learn something every day from this site.
:cheers:

That last line is definitely true.

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PostPosted: August 3, 2021, 12:14 am 
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Hello everyone, I am the latest addition to this forum. I am helping my dad restore a 1972 Mercury Cougar, and I'm here for some ideas. Honestly, I am not sure if I am on the right forum so correct me in case I'm wrong.


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PostPosted: December 16, 2021, 8:04 pm 
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Joined: December 16, 2021, 2:18 pm
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Hello and thank you for this forum.

I was the winner on a Rotus 7 from Bring a trailer. It is powered by a 12A Mazda rotary with a 5 speed.
It is in need of tires, a carb service, and a general going over.
Looking forward to having some fun with this ride.


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PostPosted: December 18, 2021, 10:18 am 
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Welcome tikijohn. :cheers:

Good luck with the upcoming servicing. I think you will like the rotary, if not the MPG. :mrgreen: It is very different from other drivetrains in both design of the engine and the driver's experience.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: December 18, 2021, 2:12 pm 
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Location: Spring, TX
Welcome! I'm building a 13B 7, probably going to go Remesis/MSP as the short block i have would probably cost as much to repair.

Looking forward to seeing another Dorito Spinner here.

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
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PostPosted: February 5, 2022, 2:49 am 
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Joined: February 5, 2022, 2:38 am
Posts: 7
Location: Middle Georgia
Hey, new guy here. I've been interested in the Locost concept for quite a while, so I've found my way to the forum several times over the years for a bit of reading. First time posting and more serious about building something than I previously have been.

I say something because I don't yet know if that will be a Locost or something else. At this point the only known quantity is an engine with sentimental value (Ford 2.8L V6) that it will be built around. I'll make another thread on that when I find the right section to discuss it. "Automotive Talk" maybe?

Anyhow, look forward to doing a lot more drooling over your builds and learning more about these.


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PostPosted: February 9, 2022, 12:18 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
JoshT wrote:
Hey, new guy here. I've been interested in the Locost concept for quite a while, so I've found my way to the forum several times over the years for a bit of reading. First time posting and more serious about building something than I previously have been.

I say something because I don't yet know if that will be a Locost or something else. At this point the only known quantity is an engine with sentimental value (Ford 2.8L V6) that it will be built around. I'll make another thread on that when I find the right section to discuss it. "Automotive Talk" maybe?

Anyhow, look forward to doing a lot more drooling over your builds and learning more about these.


Welcome to the forums. I hope you do decide on a Locost. The 2.8 V6 would be a good match for the chassis. I don't know what year V6 you have in mind, but usually the control systems on them are simple, so your Locost would be simple too.

They tuned the crap out of those engines in the UK and Germany, and I still enjoy some of the videos of the old Capri's running them on YouTube.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 16, 2022, 6:39 am 
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Location: Middle Georgia
Lonnie-S wrote:
Welcome to the forums. I hope you do decide on a Locost. The 2.8 V6 would be a good match for the chassis. I don't know what year V6 you have in mind, but usually the control systems on them are simple, so your Locost would be simple too.

They tuned the crap out of those engines in the UK and Germany, and I still enjoy some of the videos of the old Capri's running them on YouTube.


Thank you for the welcome.

If I decide it's going in a tube frame car it's either a Locost or an Exocet. My preference being the Locost. Must admit I'm also considering an engine swap into a production chassis, the leading contender there is the MGB. Either route I take, I do enjoy reading through the builds here.

I've got time to make a decision. I'm not going to start this until I get done with college and finish a couple of ongoing projects. Maybe about 3 years off. In the mean time I'll be reading, making plans and asking questions.

The 2.8L is from a 1984 Ranger. Controls won't be an issue. Yhe factory emissions stuff they put on those had been gone from this one for over 30 years. Holley carburetor and Duraspark ignition system. Just a few wires, throttle cable, and hydraulic clutch.


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PostPosted: February 16, 2022, 10:04 am 
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I had the same engine in a ‘84 ranger. It is a good engine based on the German v4, with solid lifters and no timing chain.

The original carb looks like a normal two barrel but it is an electronic feedback type requiring a computer. Offy sold a progressive two barrel intake that would be ideal, but you could just swap to a autolite 2100 with a 0.98, 1.01, or 1.02 (190-245cfm) for decent low rpm throttle response in a non-progressive carb. The venture size is cast into the bowl on the linkage side. There is an adapter for fitting a progressive but it adds a couple inches to the height and turns the carb 90 deg which is necessary for mixture distribution. These can be hard to find now as a rebuildable complete core for less than the cost of a new chinese replacement but they don’t show any specs for cfm or venture size. Look for applications in the 60s for the 260 and 289 if you want to try china carbs. For genuine ford, check your local yards and swap meets or ford site classifieds, since these carbs were usually swapped out to “upgrade” to bigger carbs.

Just before I installed a 5.0l in the ranger, I swapped the feedback carb for a 2100 and left the computer to run the timing. It worked ok but the venturi I chose was far too big for the engine.

The distributor also requires a computer since it has no flyweights. It is just an adjustable cam sensor. Look for a late 70s distributor with a vacuum advance as a suitable replacement. You can use a $10 gm hei 4 pin module on a heat sink with spade terminals instead of the large ford 7-8 wire ignition module that was never very reliable.

If the carb bolts to an aluminum adapter/egr manifold, if you remove that a standard weber DGEV 428 38x38 should fit direct if the linkage will clear the intake.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174492209234?h ... SwgEJflCk2

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PostPosted: February 16, 2022, 12:57 pm 
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Joined: February 5, 2022, 2:38 am
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Location: Middle Georgia
JoshT wrote:
Yhe factory emissions stuff they put on those had been gone from this one for over 30 years. Holley carburetor and Duraspark ignition system. Just a few wires, throttle cable, and hydraulic clutch.


Like I said, it won't be a problem.

Little more info on the engine. I grew up with it. My dad bought this particular Ranger back in the 80s when it was only a couple of years old and I was still in diapers. Not too long after he bought it the original ignition system and feedback carb system started messing up on him. To hear him tell it, it once died on him 7 times within a few miles and that was enough of that. Being familiar with the engine from the Pinto he had, he decided to fix it his was. Ripped off the factory stuff. Installed Offenhauser 4 barrel intake, Holley 390 cfm double pumper, Pinto Duraspark II ignition system (including distributor), long tube headers, and ported the heads.

I grew up with the truck, got passed around the extended family for a while, then I got it as my first vehicle when I turned 16. I rebuilt the engine in it several years ago, added an upgraded cam, then totaled the truck before I got 5k on the engine. I've kept it sealed up waiting to do something with it again.

Was going to pick up another Ranger to drop it into. Actually I did, but then found a cheap 5.0 donor and that one became swap instead. That's one of the projects I need to finish, got overwhelmed by EFI wiring and discouraged by rust issues in the body and it stalled for a while. Think I got the wiring figured now, and decided I don't care about the rust. I'll glass patch it, enjoy the truck, and find a better cab later.


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PostPosted: May 23, 2022, 2:15 am 
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Location: Middle Georgia
New plans, not that anyone cares. This is still a long term project, but still on the table. The 2.8L however won't be used for it.

I bought an 85 Ranger this past weekend with a non running 2.3L Lima engine. I won't be using the engine in the Ranger for long, if at all, because it was purchased with the goal of being a 5.0L swap truck. Previous owner claimed that the engine was locked up, but he only owned it for a month and that was the report from the previous, previous owner who had partially disassembled it.

I wasn't interested in the engine so I didn't look into it, but now I'm thinking about trying to fix it and drive the truck for a bit. That way I can do other work maintenance/repair on it, while preparing and waiting for time to do the engine swap. I think that is a large part of why my last project failed, I couldn't find time to work on it, couldn't drive it, and lost interest.

Anyhow if I get the engine running, I'll have a much better candidate for a Locost build than the 2.8L would have been. Something that I can probably find built a chassis to readily accept.


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PostPosted: May 23, 2022, 5:10 am 
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Plans are good Josh, and always subject to change. Taking your time is important - I have taken 25 years so far, so you are in good company here. Keep us posted, cheers,
Marcus


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PostPosted: May 27, 2022, 2:17 am 
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Joined: May 27, 2022, 2:01 am
Posts: 5
Location: Los Angeles
Hello All!

I'm Alex, long time lurker, first time builder! I've been thinking for a while what I want to build, and I think I have it all sorted, but there's bound to be things not accounted for. I love what you guys do here, it's a great community full of great people.

Current plan is a basic 442, with KineticVehicles front suspension and a Miata subframe for the rear. Coils will probably end up being stock Miata in rear for the time being, and Yamaha R6 rear coilovers in the front, looking at 03-04 ones. Engine will be a VVT out of an 01-05, with a Speeduino to control it. Trying to keep the stock pedals, but i'll see how far that gets me. Radiator will be out of a 90's Civic, the square ones. I've got a whole lot of work ahead of me, but I think I have the time. Trying to keep the final cost under 10k, but with how donor prices are right now, it'll be a stretch.

I'm looking forward to my project and to getting to know the community here, and I hope to start sooner rather than later.


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