Mhm wrote:
I not thinking of replacing the inner CV's with a guibo, but to fit the guibo between the inner CV and the diff output flange.
Oh- now I see where you're going with this... I can't imagine the CVs tolerating what would essentially become a 'soft mount'.. Just one man's opinion (take it for what it's worth
), but I think you'd develop terrible vibration issues..
Let us know what you end up doing!
-ccrunner
_________________
Dean
1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"
1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=163091959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com
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.. the travel the axles will cycle through will bring too much angle to the Guibos -- the guibos don't tolerate much angle/change at all- they really have to be mounted as straight as possible.. If you can, try and mount one guibo right at the bike's old sprocket location, or, mount it off the front of the diff's pinion (this is what I'm in the middle of doing to mine).. these options may require you to adopt a 2-piece driveshaft to get the guibo to align straight on.. I'm using a BMW guibo, and had to go back and retrofit for the exact reason of killing the loud clanking and more importantly, taking the shifting harshness away from those precious bike gears (the way the cush drive did when the motor was in the bike).