Lonnie-S wrote:
@Dan Lockwood
That M4W idea looks like a really novel and interesting build, Dan. I took a look at your project pictures. I'm not sure how that front suspension works, but it looks like a cool project.
How about starting a build log here?
@TomyJ
That front wheel drive chassis looks very interesting. Is it your idea/build? What will the end-result look like?
Cheers, and Happy New Year!
Hi all again!
Hope you all have a very Happy Thanksgiving!
This is a "little" long, so get the popcorn and relax. Not sure what Lonnie meant about starting a build log, maybe someone can explain that as I get deeper into this project? Thanks!
It's been a few years and I still have the urge to build a Harley powered car. So much so, that I have acquired quite a few parts already. I'm in the late stages of finishing up my Boardtrack Racer Bike project that's been accumulating dust for the past 10 years. But now that I'm retire, almost a year now, to fund my Harley car, the wife said go for it, but no money from our savings and NO LOAN! Okay, I can work with that. I have "stuff' that i can get rid of to give me some working capital etc...
Over the past several years, the direction of the Morgan M3W as a M4W, has passed and my true goal is to upscale a very rough replica of a MG M-Type 2-seater car with the Harley motor mounted out front.
Here's the plan and where I'm at parts wise at the moment. Keep in mind that I am NOT into this project yet, but if parts happen to come up cheap, I'll get some just because.
MG made their M-type for just a few short years, '28 thru '32 I believe. I'll have the motor mounted with the cylinders to each side and the crankshaft longitudinal with the car.
These cars are VERY small and the seats are only 14" wide at the base. I sat in one and it was really uncomfortable as I'm a 230# guy. So my plan is to upscale the body about 10% to 12%. The interior width stock is around 35". I was able to find locally a MG TD windshield assembly that is not in too bad of condition, easily re-chromed when finished. Then I found a guy up in WI that has a BUNCH of MG TD stuff and he had several TD cowls (scuttles as they're called in the UK) that my windshield assembly bolts right up to. I bought that and together they will serve as my main measuring point to build the body. The base is around 41" wide and should give me a real person seating space.
Next I picked up my Harley power. I bought an '05 CVO Fat Boy motor/trans assembly. This is a 103" (1690cc) motor. The Softails all use a pain counterbalance shafts to smooth out the torque pulses and vibration. If anyone has ridden an '00 or later Softail, you can attest to the smoothness of the motor. I thought I would have to live with an 88" "B" motor, but I found this CVO version and they're usually larger displacement than normal year motors. I was able to start out much larger in size for no extra cost. My guess in a bike that this motor the way I'll be running it would put down around 80 rwhp. Should be more than enough to push a 1,300# car around in snappy fashion...
Next I found an '06 Miata later model 5 speed transmission, the same one Morgan uses on their M3W's. It was from a burn car with only 20k miles on the ticker for $500. Should be good as new for my purposes.
Rather than re-inventing the wheel, I chose to just purchase the motor to trans adapter housing from a Morgan dealer in Chicago. A bit pricy, but it's a proven part that eliminated lots of frustration on my part. They also have a fairly proven compensator coupler now from the motor crank to the flywheel, which I will also purchase. It's shown below as part #3.
I ordered my wheels from MWS (Motor Wheel Services) in the UK. They make wheels for Morgan's new cars as well as a full line of classic spoke wheels like I needed. I had to have special hubs as the narrow rims did not come on the hubs I needed. I purchased 2.15"x19" 60-spoke silver painted wheels. They came all mounted with 4.00x19" Blockley rubber. I also purchase chrome 2-ear spinners in 12 tpi for front and rear.
I've also picked up front and rear end parts. For the rear end, I picked up an early MGB banjo rear end axle assembly. It has a 3.9:1 diff now and I have two more diffs at 4.3:1 and 4.55:1. Not sure how the ratio will work out for the lower torque Harley with the Miata O/D trans with 28" tall tires. So the 4.3 or 4.55 may come into play. The rear drum brakes are 10" and will look quite nice showing through the spoke wheels.
The front end comes from a '57 MGA. I found that by just a few thou ream on the king pin bores that '55 & '56 GMC king pins will fit. I had to shorten them, but the king pin kit comes with the king pins, thrust bearings, top and bottom bushings, locking draw pins and soft plugs. I drew up a knuckle that would work for me and our machine shop foreman made them up for me for a case of beer. They're 1.625 thick and my solid tube front axle is 1.5" OD x 1.125" ID 3/16" wall DOM. I plan on doing a slight bend up at each end, like a dropped hot rod solid tube axle. The front brakes are also 10" drums and will match perfectly the rears.
You can see the counterbore at the top and there's one at the bottom for the soft plugs. After I have the bushings measured up and know where to drill for the grease fittings top and bottom, the soft plugs will be put in.
I plan on making the chassis hot rod style with a ladder tube frame, probably 1.5"x3"x1/8" wall. Plenty of cross bracing to boot. The body will be formed using 1.25" square aluminium tubing rolled on my Harbor Freight tubing roller. I'll make up square tube dies and it will work out find. I plan on doing suicide doors so the latches will be easier to reach and will also allow a bit more foot room to get in/out. I'm not sure yet what pedal box type I will use, but I'm leaning toward Wilwood hanging. This car will not be too accommodating to varying size people, but I hope to help that out some. I'm 6'-1" and the wife is 5'-4". She and I both plan on driving the car. My thoughts are this, and some suggestions are welcome on everything I'm doing here, but I was thinking of mounting the pedal box on a low profile sliding seat track with the "U" shaped handle release they sell like at Speedway. That way the seat to steering wheel distance will remain the same, but the pedals will slide front to rear with the life of a handle, hopefully about 6" total. Any thoughts on that?
That's it for now. As I said this is NOT an active project just yet...
I have the Boardtrack in clear coat as we speak. I should be assembling it for the last time on Saturday and then I get to do all the wiring for the last time. OH BOY!!!
Hope you all have a great Holiday Weekend...
Dan