I will add that getting a throttle-by-wire system to do what you need to, is relatively simple task. The hard part is to make it do what you want (safely return to idle) under all conceivable failure modes. I will emphasize this later point. Being 100% certain that the design of the parts and software are fault tolerant. For example, I read a patent some years back, at least one iteration the pedal has both an increasing pot and a decreasing pot actuated by the pedal. The CPU looks at both signals to determine that they match expected results. If not the CPU sets the actuator to zero. This works to verify the pedal assembly and its wiring integrity are operating properly. This works only if the system software and drivers are working properly. There are so many various considerations with DBW systems that I have shied away from a DIY solution in my build and selected a cable operated engine & TB for my MGB build.
BTW check out the GM Blend door actuator for a similar, relatively inexpensive automotive actuator. It comes with the motor and the internal POT. However it was designed for in-cabin applications where the environment is way less stressful than under-hood operations. I have a good, used blend door actuator from a 2000 GMC Jimmy on the shelf if you want to experiment with it. Just pay postage from 60185.
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Chuck.
“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman
Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log:
over HEREOr my Wankel powered Locost log :
over HEREAnd don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766