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Alright, I’ve done some cutting and playing around this afternoon. Have a look at my extremely detailed, to scale, and accurate sketch to see how this will lay out.



So by having non parallel flanges (or one flange and one hub in my case) will I end up with vibration in my cv’s now? Anyone done this and running it successfully?

PS:
I’ll still have a height difference of 1” as I do not have the height needed to fit under the hood.

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Hm, interesting. I can't see it as being much different than front CVs on a FWD/AWD vehicle that have to deal with steering wheels (and camber changes). And of course the RPMs of those shafts will be lower. I like it.

True. But you certainly don’t have your steering turned 5* all the time either. Hopefully it works out.

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If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

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Cv means constant velocity. Ujoints are constant velocity when operated at zero angle (90 to the shaft). Ujoints create vibration because they are not constant velocity when operated at an angle other than 90 to the shaft. With a fixed input rpm, the shaft, operating at an angle, will accelerated and decelerate with each revolution. The other joint must match so the output flange will turn at the same constant rpm as the input. This means you can have one ujoint if it is operating at zero and a cv operating at an angle.

The axles generally turn 1/3 to ¼ as fast as the trans output at top speed. At 11000 engine rpm, the output is around 7000 in sixth gear, so if the transaxle is in high gear, depending on the diff ratio, the axle will likely be 2000-3000 max rpm so the angles can be greater than a driveshaft. All this is a compromise/band aid. It is much better to line things up properly.

I have a DJ5 (essentially a 2wd Jeep CJ5 that is right hand drive for mail delivery). I think you may be able to put the engine behind the left wheel under the cowl, close to the dash panel, eliminating the foot well on the driver side but you could make it right hand drive. You can fit a bolt on cover (like a van) inside for easy access to everything. The seats can be built in to regain some leg room. Passengers don't need sliders.

A more practical solution is to narrow the passenger seat and move the diff over another inch. Just need to be careful to limit irs travel with such a short axle to prevent bind in droop or full comp.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I know I have to make some sacrifices for sure. We have too many laws for RH drive vehicles, and driving one never really interested me. As for tucking the engine under the cowl, it won’t fit with the way the chassis had to be built. I’ll load some more pics tonight.

With my seats being as low as I can get them, and all the way back to the rear tire, I sit perfectly at rest up to the firewall. Might have to get creative with the pedal box when I get to that. I could raise the seats like an original, but I don’t like the look tbh. I’m hoping the rear cv angle won’t hurt me in the end, but it seems to be the best way with minimal sacrifice.

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

Pics as promised!

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

It looks like you have plenty of room with a mod to the frame rails and still keep from cutting out the fender. A few more pics at different angles where the contact is and I can draw what I am talking about. It looks like the drain plug at the main rail and the block at the upper rail are the issue. I assume you are routing the exhaust out the side and making your own header. I'd put all the suspension in and prop the engine on blocks to finalize location and best framing location before any final welding. With odd shaped pans, a 2x4 box with deck screws works well to provide a base. Then you can grind notches in the box to get the engine to sit level on it. Level enough to check clearances anyway.

How are you adapting the porsche to a driveshaft and joint from the torque tube design?
You can have long/short axles made to move the diff over and keep it parallel.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12