LocostUSA.com

I plan to build a cage similar to Moti's. I have decided I'm probably better off getting a bender of my own. There are a few options out there but I'm having a hard time deciding....

Affordable bender ($300 with a die)


Pros
Don’t have to build it
Cheap
Affordable dies ($100- $150 per)

Cons
Bends up to .095 DOM or .134 HREW
Bends limited to 90 degrees
Small selection of dies

Gottrikes plans ($20 + supplies, it’s common to spend $300 to complete + dies)


Pros
Pneumatic/hydraulic
Bends 180 degrees
Bends up to .120 ???
Virtually unlimited number of dies available (uses same dies as ProTools 105)
Don’t need a stand to be bolted to the floor

Cons
Dies get expensive fast
Slow, I have to build it and it would seriously sidetrack me from the locost
Seems to be similar price as JD2 or ProTools 105 when finished (plus labor)

JD2 or ProTools 105 ($300 plus shipping)


Pros
Don’t have to build it
Unlimited dies available
Bends up to .120
Lots of support, no worry about if I build it right or milled my holes perfectly (don’t have access to mill)

Cons
Dies get expensive fast
Have to figure out a stand and bolt it to the floor, and a handle
Not hydro (doesn’t really bother me)

I will need a 1.5 inch die. (not sure on a good radius yet???). I would like a 1 inch die to do the rear of the car's body panels but since it's only a couple bends it's probably not worth buying the die.

I would prefer not to build it because I get sidetracked easily and I want to try and stay focused on the car. Right now I'm leaning toward the JD2 or ProTools to make sure I have something that will do a good job and last, it's just hard to swallow the price tag on those dies when I only have a couple thousand to spend on the car in the immediately foreseeable future.

Anybody got anything else to add? I will update this post with more info...

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+442 - Miata

You forgot one other option.

This is a one time need, correct?

Pay someone to bend them for you.

Pros doesn't take up any room and doesn't take up any of your time plus it will probably cost less than buying a bender

Cons if this isn't a one time thing then one day you'll have to cross this bridge again.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

I thought about having someone do it. I guess I just didn't want to plan that far ahead, I kinda wanted to build one piece, then measure for another etc... but I don't have to do it like that. I agree that it would be a good option if the cost worked out. I'm sure I will use a bender again but I am a student right now with only summer employment and I could much more easily afford something like this when I'm finished with school.

Also, I have no idea how much I should pay for something like that. If the price of having someone do it would get anywhere near the price of the bender I would rather just buy one.

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+442 - Miata

Jack at Kinetic vehicles sells a roll bar for use. He gets them made for him, which might also be a clue abut paying someone to do the work. I think he will take your dimensions, the width basically, and then have it made. He's upfront about who does it too.

I bought the JD2 bender and a 90 degree 1 3/8" die. Also a tube nother from them. Both are good quality and work great. I just bolted the bender to my workbench.My car uses that size tube and has four hoops because I used the same tube for the trunk area.

On a budget and with the idea of getting as much education as possible, I would build the Haynes or book chassis with square tube and cross the roll bar bridge when you get to it.

Glad you're still around and enjoy school!

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
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Not to steal business from Jack, but Rollcagecomponents.com formed and fish mouthed my roll bar to my dimensions. If you have a sketch with dimensions, I'm sure that Jimmy can make you what you need. Wouldn't hurt to ask him to quote. This is how I received it:



Several of us have used them for our roll bars. Jack also uses (used?) them for his supplier.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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toylocost,
if you check my build log, I shared my experience on deciding on a tubing bender.
If you are planning on a cage, it may be complicated to get it pre-bent. That may work for a roll bar, but as you say, you'll be custom making one piece at a time. At least that's what I did.
I purchased the die from Affordable Bender and built my own frame. I'm very happy how it all turned out. However, you will probably not be able to bent 90 deg. With spring back, and even lots of adjusting, the best I could get was about 86 to 87 deg.; but, I think that is plenty good enough.

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Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

if you want a one off roll bar then find someone local to bend it or buy prebent from the sources above, however being as you are a student, perhaps you could invest in some dies and build a frame and a hydraulic jack for power.

there are several different size dies so once built, you could add them as required.

i aquired most of my tools many years ago, in fact i have tools that are from the 50's that i or my father purchased new, they have been the best investment i have ever made, they make you independant and will educate you every time you use them until you can virtually create anything you want given enough time, a bit like a manual 3d printer, and hey, someone with tools has to assemble the printer in the first place.

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this story shall the good man teach his son,
and chrispin chrispian shall ne'er go by,
from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.

One cost you need to add when bending the steel yourself is you will probably mess up a few bars. The cost of steel can quickly become a factor.
If you get someone else to go it they are less likely to make a mistake and if they do will usually come up with a solution to fix the issue (Buy more steel being one of them).

I got my car buddy to bend mine for $10 per bend ($40 total for 4 bends)

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

I called my local muffler shop and talked to the owner about bending the bar for TETANUS. After a few minutes on the phone he invited me over to work with his bending guru. When we were finished I asked what I owed and he said I should just tip the guy who did the work.

Muffler shops tend to have a lot of die sets for different diameters and radius bends.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

A decent bender is definitely a worthwhile addition. I have a staffa hydraulic bender for roll cages and an old Huth bender for doing exhaust`s. I am just sorting out the electrics on the Huth because its american 110 volt and the transformers we have here dont like supplying the amount of current they need.
Staffa


Huth

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

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