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PostPosted: January 22, 2019, 1:56 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
Posts: 1713
Location: Louisville KY
I finally got 2 responses from the factory from re: what you can't do with only 110 vac. Nothing at all helpful. Although they did finally send this bit:

Quote:
Morning Tim

Below is a Voltage/Breaker to recommended Max Amperage chart for the 201xd
Breaker requirements
120v 40a breaker for 150a
120v 30a breaker for 120a
120v 20a breaker for 90a
120v 15a breaker for 70a

Running the unit on higher then recommended amps when on a undersized breaker can damage the unit.



So yeah, uh, if I'm running 120vac, in order to get the required high power for, I dunno, aluminum? I have ro run a 40 amp service to the unit.

EDIT -- Miller says I'd need 65-75 amps for 1/8" butt welds on aluminum. 220 amps for 1/4" aluminum butt welds. 3/16" would be absolute max, needing a 40amp breaker and corresponding wiring.

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.


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PostPosted: January 22, 2019, 3:02 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6414
Location: West Chicago,IL
If you need to run a new circuit, I would just run a 240V run. BTW, I find it hard to believe that you can damage the welder by welding 120 or 150A higher current on a 120V/20Amp breaker. That would seem to imply that the unit will get damaged if the breaker opens. Maybe the damage would be due to the higher voltage drop as the 120V load current increases. But I expect the unit has a low voltage shut down. It has an auto sense for 120 vs 240 operation.

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PostPosted: January 23, 2019, 12:56 am 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
Posts: 1617
Location: No. Nevada
Got it this evening, being in the sticks UPS runs a bit late. :(

Got it fired up without any drama, once I get the controls dialed in I expect that it will work fine for me. :cheers:

Have to say I am impressed with their packaging, custom foam inserts and even metal braces inside corners of the box. :shock:
Less impressed with the doumentation.
Decent but cursory basic operating instructions, LOTS of warnings.
It would have been nice if they had related what type cups and electrode holders are used. :BH:
Not the same as my old torch so I need another gas lens and spare cups at the least.
No local welding supply house so it's probably MSC as my main supplier.
I will also probably upgrade to a water cooled torch soon, I already have a Miller chiller.

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PostPosted: January 28, 2019, 2:00 am 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
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Location: No. Nevada
So, a minor update.
After a bit of practice and adjustment I successfully welded a suppressor tube to it's base.
Still fighting to be able to SEE WHERE I want to weld and be able to follow that track.
Tried a bright work light, tried the punch mark trick, it all remained very trying. :(
But I did achieve a satisfactory weld and that's the bottom line for the purchase. :D

Tried the stick weld function on 110V, not impressed, not hot enough.
Wanted to use it in the morning for a trailer repair job, but not going to do that now.
Maybe it would work on 220V, but I don't have 220V available at the job site.

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PostPosted: November 30, 2019, 9:37 pm 
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Joined: August 26, 2010, 7:12 pm
Posts: 287
Location: Minneapolis
You know you can re wire those machines for either single or three phase right?


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PostPosted: December 1, 2019, 2:05 am 
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Location: No. Nevada
If I had three phase available I would not have needed to buy this welder.
I still have the Hobart in storage.

Iv'e been using this a fair amount and it has worked very well in TIG mode.

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