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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 1:21 pm 
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I yeah I found a bit more info on the stock flow

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to ... water-pump

I can try stuff right now but it's cold here so I may not get good data. I will try a few things before putting the pump in.

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PostPosted: April 18, 2020, 5:24 pm 
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I got a chance to work on the car. Had to fix a fuel leak from the new fuel rail and a major oil leak because I only put 3 of the 19 oil pan bolts on and oil sprayed everywhere. :BH:

So coolant wise I figured which tube was hot and which was cold after running her for a bit. And now I remember that I was going to flip the tubes since the radiator temp sensor is on the hot side. That's only going to tell me when the thermostat opens not the temp deferential. I also went ahead and put a new engine coolant temp sensor in just incase. I will collect data tomorrow.

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PostPosted: April 20, 2020, 8:15 pm 
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Switched the tubes so the radiator temp sensor is reading right. I also changed the engine sensor with a new one for the hell of it.

I tilted her in the air, slow filled her, pumped all the tubes by hand to get as much air out as possible then started her up. I continued to bleed air with the Lisle funnel and slow revved the engine to get more air out.

All test were done without the pressure cap on. Outside temp around 65deg. The engine read around 199 before the thermostat opened which took a while. Then it stayed around 180-185 at the engine and 150ish or less at the radiator. I really got on her after a while and she ended boiling over. I cooled her down a bit, refilled, bleed and I still could not get her to overheat. Good news but also bad. I am going to try it again tomorrow with the pressure cap on to see what happens.


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PostPosted: June 4, 2020, 8:15 am 
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So I got her out for a drive Saturday and she did well. I stuck to the city and did about 25miles over 1hr. Top temp at the engine was 191deg and around 183deg at the rad. At stop lights you could see the temp at the radiator plummet from 180ish to 150-160deg. with the fan on. While driving though the temp would go up and not no go down from from the stop temp. I will do some more testing this weekend.

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PostPosted: November 29, 2020, 4:21 pm 
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So I have been driving her which is the good news.. the bad news is that I let my buddy drive s few weeks back and he said the power seem really low from what he remember. So I did a compression test and the numbers are all low around 120. I am guessing the cylinder wash never actually allowed the rings to set .The shop who built the bottom said that they can rebuild it with parts for $1500. That's not bad.

So in the meantime I'm trying to work on things to get her ready to be taken apart and get painted. There is a lot to do like Fender mounts, mounting the shock cover, installing new shocks that are shorter, redo the wiring, Etc. I think the hardest part is redoing the wiring. :BH:

I'm also trying to figure out if I can install one of my company's dry-sump systems but it looks like all the tanks are too big. I might be able to do something custom but I will probably need to take it into the guys to take a look at it.

They posted for updates on the progress

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PostPosted: November 30, 2020, 1:24 pm 
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With three (or four?) failed engines, it's time to get to the bottom of what's going on. At least go online and post the history of the engine failures to some car forums. This many failures is way out of line, assuming that you aren't severely mistreating the engine (crazy high rpm and/or boost).

For those who haven't followed the entire build history, can you please list the known or suspected reasons why the engine failed each time?

FWIW, I'm a firm believer in a dry sump for any engine being run at high rpm or in high-G corners. It also protects the bearings from loosing their oil "wedge" due to deaeration, which may be a dry sump system's biggest benefit

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PostPosted: November 30, 2020, 4:17 pm 
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This last engine didn't fail because of oiling issues. Its because when I first got the engine running without issue the hose pooped off the FPR which caused cylinder wash. That never allowed the rings to fully seat which is causing the low compression.

The dry sump would be nice but I don't think it's necessary at this point and i would just do it as an extra precaution. I'm waiting to see how the bearings look once the company digs in to her but from what I can see the bearings look pretty good.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2020, 7:21 pm 
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Got some things done today.

The front fenders are going to be tricky since there is not much room at full lock. I have an idea and will post it once I can update the model

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Now for the shocks. Last year I got a shorter pair of socks (valving reasons) and now I am trying to mount them. It looks like I will need to add another tube in which might look dumb. Thoughts?

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Finally committed to the mounting on the shock cover using push button latches. I'm not a fan of the posts on the chassis but they work.

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So the last issue i am struggling with... The font tabs were spaced incorrectly when the were welded on so they don't look right (rear are fine). I am debating on cutting these off and redoing them but I don't want to compromise the tube they attach too. If I was to fix them this would be the time to do it. However they have lasted this long so they are a "looks" thing at this point.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2020, 10:26 pm 
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Removing and replacing tabs should be no issue, presuming good workmanship and welding. I once reflected concern about a submarine pressure hull repair and our materials guy said that the welded repair would be stronger than the parent metal. Of course, different vehicle, different scale, different steel and different welding procedures, But I think the same principles apply: if the repair or modification is well planned and executed there should be no change in strength beyond geometric differences. If a klutz does the grinding and welding, different story. :-)

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PostPosted: January 3, 2021, 2:28 pm 
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Made some progress this week. Took the grinder to the metal holding the old ones in and installed the new shorter and lighter valve ones. They probably still are not light enough (I use the same ones in the rear) but way better than the last pair.


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PostPosted: June 22, 2021, 2:34 pm 
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So I have the car completely torn apart so I could work on the last few things and get the chassis powder coated. I've been working on redoing the wiring which has gone pretty well and I sent the engine out in March to have 4 piston racing evaluate the condition with the Rings however they sent me back a picture of this as well :BH:
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That engine had ~300miles on it and $2500 to fix. At some point this nonsense will stop and I'm making it now. Since we acquired Peterson I am working with them on a dry sump system. The biggest hang-up for the dry sump system is where to put the tank. I basically have no room in the car and the atoms like mine that have a dry sump usually take the passenger seat out which I don't want to do. Apart from losing the passenger seat I don't want hot oil in the driver area. We're going to try to figure out a custom tank if at all possible. While that is getting done I'm going to finish up the wiring somebody work and to welding hopefully have it completed this year.

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PostPosted: July 22, 2021, 9:35 am 
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Any update on the tank?

If it were me, I'd 3D scan the best area and make an organically shaped tank for the task. I really ought to make a youtube video for the sheetmetal portion of this process.

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PostPosted: July 22, 2021, 8:30 pm 
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We mfg the internals of the tanks to certain sizes so the top of the tank needs to be somewhat the same but the bottom can change. I am waiting fir the rebuilt engine to come back, then i can test fit everything and figure out a plan.

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PostPosted: July 22, 2021, 9:20 pm 
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What about putting the oil in the frame? Or would that be a new type of plumbing nightmare?


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PostPosted: July 22, 2021, 9:53 pm 
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Good thought but yeah plumbing would be very tough

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