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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 28, 2024, 10:25 am 
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You might like to taper the fenders with sloping front and rear horizontal tubes. The cover panel would still be flat and you'd still cover the axle centerline at ride height (assuming it is required).

You could slope the tops as well but that would look too much like a modern jeep for the rules.


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PostPosted: February 4, 2024, 9:20 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
You might like to taper the fenders with sloping front and rear horizontal tubes. The cover panel would still be flat and you'd still cover the axle centerline at ride height (assuming it is required).

You could slope the tops as well but that would look too much like a modern jeep for the rules.

That would actually look so much better, thanks mate. I might initially just round the corners because that will be a lot simpler to retrofit and at this point I just want the car done, but I'll keep that idea in mind for when I have motivation to cut them apart :D

Over the last couple of weeks I've been working on a simple sheet metal brake to help make the remaining aluminium panels on the car. I started with a couple of lengths of 125x8 and one length of 75x8 equal angle.

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I turned up some heavy duty hinges from some bar stock and pipe that I had in the scrap bin.

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Then I welded them onto the larger angle, using the second piece of angle to hold the pieces axially inline.

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Next step was to flatten the 75x8 angle so it can work as a clamp for the sheet metal being bent.

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Initially I used this setup with a slitting saw but it wasn't working very well, so I finished it with a grinder.

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Next up another super dodgy setup to drill the 30mm clamp bolt holes

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But it worked, and here's the almost finished pivot assembly.

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Some finessing and the first test bend came out perfectly.

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I still need to add handles, a brace for the top of the clamp bar, and a couple of adjusters to set the setback of the clamp bar for different thickness materials, but it works!

Hopefully I'll get it finished off next weekend and I can get the rest of the aluminium panels made up fairly quickly.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2024, 1:41 am 
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Awesome write up! I always enjoy seeing how people build things (half the reason I'm here.)

Keep up the good work!

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PostPosted: February 6, 2024, 6:22 pm 
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Seriously heavy duty for bending .080" and thinner steel and aluminum. Probably won't need the truss braces used with typical 1/8 wall angle framing. No need to torque the nuts. You might just add some rod to the side for a quick "wing" nut adjustment.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 11, 2024, 6:28 pm 
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kabuku6 wrote:
Awesome write up! I always enjoy seeing how people build things (half the reason I'm here.)

Keep up the good work!

Thanks mate!

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All finished with some paint

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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Seriously heavy duty for bending .080" and thinner steel and aluminum. Probably won't need the truss braces used with typical 1/8 wall angle framing. No need to torque the nuts. You might just add some rod to the side for a quick "wing" nut adjustment.

Thanks mate, I tried to bend a 300mm length of 1.6 stainless but the 125x8 angle was flexing away, so it looks like I'll have to add some additional reinforcement if I want to do anything in stainless, but for aluminium and steel I think it will be alright.

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Made a sharp bend at the outer edge of the bender and more of a radius towards the center... oh well, I'll stick to aluminium for the moment.

I was going to add some bar to the clamping nuts to speed things up but it looks like it could interfere with the sheet, so I'll have to figure out another solution. For the moment I'm just using big multi-grips to tighten it up a bit.

Image

I also made a start on marking out the bonnet on some 1.2 aluminium. I'm using 1.2 rather than 1.6 because I don't think I'd be able to form the long radius on 1.6; given how difficult it was to do the rear body corners which are only ~400 tall the 1100 bonnet will be a challenge even in 1.2. Also ignore that I've written 100 radius bend down, all bends should be up to create the shape I'm looking for.

I'm going to use the bender to fold over the leading edge of the bonnet to give a decent radius for pedestrian safety.

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PostPosted: February 12, 2024, 12:49 am 
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Beelzeboss wrote:
I was going to add some bar to the clamping nuts to speed things up but it looks like it could interfere with the sheet, so I'll have to figure out another solution. For the moment I'm just using big multi-grips to tighten it up a bit.
A deep socket with a ratchet or breaker bar will spin those nuts. Nice job with the brake!

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PostPosted: February 14, 2024, 5:14 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
Beelzeboss wrote:
I was going to add some bar to the clamping nuts to speed things up but it looks like it could interfere with the sheet, so I'll have to figure out another solution. For the moment I'm just using big multi-grips to tighten it up a bit.
A deep socket with a ratchet or breaker bar will spin those nuts. Nice job with the brake!

Thanks mate! I just need to find a cheap 50mm socket somewhere :lol:

With a combination of the sheet metal break and a piece of 100mm diameter aluminium pipe I started forming the bonnet. I also annealed the aluminium for the 100mm radius bend by adding some sharpie squiggles and heating with a MAP gas torch until the colour disappears from the sharpie marks.

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First test fit came out pretty much spot on!

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The bonnet has a folded U-shape return along each of the long sides, as well as a folded over front edge to get a decent radius at the front.

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Next up I did the dashboard, again with a U-shape return along the lower edge for rigidity.

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I need to put a radius on the lower edge near the driver, as it's pretty sharp, and I'm also considering decreasing the depth from 150mm to 120mm to give just a little more shin room.

Finally I also made a start on the scuttle panel.

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This one definitely still needs some trimming to fit properly, and folding down the edges to waterproof the scuttle. I'd also like to bead roll a step on the leading edge so the bonnet will sit more flush, but I don't currently have a bead roller... any suggestions?

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PostPosted: February 14, 2024, 7:47 pm 
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You might want to add two or three ribs (formed from the same material and thickness as the bonnet) with one just behind the grill so it doesn't lift as easy from wind and near the rear edge unless you add a 3x25 steel strip welded to the scuttle frame recessed about 3 mil for a belt seal the bonnet would sit against flush with the scuttle. The jeep cj hoods are rigid with a U bend at the nose and a 1x2 hat channel rib under the hinges with a flange down each side and about .050" steel. They float between the hinges and grill with a gap to the cowl/scuttle and a rain channel at the firewall.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 18, 2024, 7:21 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
You might want to add two or three ribs (formed from the same material and thickness as the bonnet) with one just behind the grill so it doesn't lift as easy from wind and near the rear edge unless you add a 3x25 steel strip welded to the scuttle frame recessed about 3 mil for a belt seal the bonnet would sit against flush with the scuttle. The jeep cj hoods are rigid with a U bend at the nose and a 1x2 hat channel rib under the hinges with a flange down each side and about .050" steel. They float between the hinges and grill with a gap to the cowl/scuttle and a rain channel at the firewall.

Great minds think alike! I've already made a rib to go behind the grill and one for the rear of the bonnet, as well as two longitudinal ones which will be just outboard of the cutout for the scoop :D

I've been sick for the last week and a bit but had a little time to do some small jobs on the hot rod.

I cut the dash down 15mm to 135mm tall, and finished rounding over the corner by the drivers side.

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Then I tacked up the pipe that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body.

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Finally I trimmed 250mm off the front of the frame and started adding the crush tubes for the front bumper mounting bolts.

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I mocked up where the bumper will extend to and it has plenty of clearance to the front wheels for turning, and on the plus side I now have room to walk around the front of the car :lol:

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PostPosted: February 22, 2024, 7:52 am 
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Looks good! :cheers:

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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