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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 23, 2020, 12:12 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Didn't end up getting out to the shed until mid-day on Saturday, so less progress than anticipated but I made a dent in the frame rework.

I don't know why I thought that keeping the original chassis boxing and filling in the holes was a good idea. Looks terrible, is terrible, needs fixing.

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Same at the rear, what was I thinking...

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I still have a bit more to cut out of the rear section, but I ground down and prepped the front for the new 4mm boxing plates.

Then I'm going to re-make the rear of the centre crossmember, as in the following expertly drawn CAD model.

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Linking it back to the subframe mount will provide a LOT better bracing for the frame.

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PostPosted: August 30, 2020, 7:00 pm 
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On Saturday I cut out the rest of the boxing plates, deburred them, and did a bit of rough trimming to make them fit on the chassis.

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Then I had to stop grinding because the horses on the property were not loving the noise, so I finished off a lot of the welding on the body frame.

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I'm away next weekend so will hopefully update again 14/09 (9/14 in the US ? ), maybe then I'll have the frame boxing finished and I can move forward with the project.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2020, 9:43 pm 
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New delivery today!

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I've decided not to go with the Borg Warner S366, as I think a 600rwkw (800whp) ceiling (and mainly the associated lag) will be ridiculous in a car this light. I also would much prefer to have twin side-pipes and no crossover. I love the sound of true dual exhausts on a V8, and the symmetry appeals to me. Internal wastegates are also a plus for simpler plumbing.

To that end I've sourced a couple of TD05HRA's from Evo 8 RS's. The beauty of these turbo's is they're true twin scroll, have a titanium alumnide exhaust wheel (meaning VERY quick spooling), and most importantly they can be picked up for peanuts from people who don't know the HRA serial signifies it's the titanium exhaust wheel edition.

These should be good for ~440rwkw (almost 600rwhp, more than enough) and have full boost by 3000 rpm - much better than the ~4200 rpm of the S366.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2020, 7:34 pm 
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I've been considering how I'll plumb the two twin scroll turbo's; the idea is to separate the exhaust pulses of each scroll as much as possible. Easy to do on a 4 cylinder, not so easy to do on a cross plane V8 like the 1UZ.

1UZFE cylinder numbering - viewed from the top:
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
front of engine

Firing order
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

As I'm not interested in having exhaust pipes running from one bank to the other side, which is required to get optimal separation of exhaust pulses, the arrangement I've come up with is as follows.

Isolating just the left bank firing order
1-x-x-3-x-5-7-x <- pair 1&5, 3&7

And the right bank firing order
x-8-4-x-6-x-x-2 <- pair 2&4, 6&8

Attachment:
1UZ TWIN SCROLL.png
1UZ TWIN SCROLL.png [ 20.87 KiB | Viewed 2961 times ]


It will look at little funky with the different manifold arrangements, but as far as I can tell this will be as close to optimal as I can get without having pipes running all over the place between the banks.

If anyone can see a better way to do it then I'm all ears :)

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PostPosted: September 16, 2020, 12:12 am 
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Location: Sydney, Australia
Just made the rear subframe spacers in my lunch break - these should give the correct driveshaft angle

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They're 16mm thick

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PostPosted: September 28, 2020, 6:24 pm 
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Got a bit more done this weekend, nothing ground breaking but it's all progress.

Those kitchen cabinet things were removed from the shed, so lots more room to work.

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Got the frame boxing plates all final trimmed, weld prepped, and tacked on.

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And finished off a few welds around the chassis; body mounts, front shock mounts, etc.

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I have a day scheduled to work on it over the long weekend; I'm hoping to get all the frame boxing plates fully welded in, grind down and re-do a few of the welds I'm not happy with, and maybe get to making some extra reinforcement around the rear subframe mounts.

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PostPosted: October 11, 2020, 4:53 pm 
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More chassis work, I had a couple of hours over the weekend and was able to finish welding in the boxing plates.

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Next up is to re-do the rear of the centre crossmember, fix up the holes in the front one, then grind out and re-do a whole lot of the welds throughout the chassis... THEN I may be ready to make proper progress

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PostPosted: November 1, 2020, 5:21 pm 
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A little more progress this weekend - I reinforced the rear subframe mounts using 4mm material, same thickness as the rail boxing plates

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Then I started removing the rear part of the centre crossmember. First up was to tack in a temporary SHS brace

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Then got to work with the grinder

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I apologise for the blurry pics, apparently my phone's camera is having issues

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PostPosted: December 6, 2020, 4:32 am 
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I needed some 150x50x3 channel to remake the rear of the centre crossmember, but unfortunately it doesn't look like this is a common size.

I got around the problem by using 150x50x3 RHS and plasma cutting off one side of it - it worked really well!

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I managed to finish one side of the crossmember

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It needed a little kink in it to clear the body frame, so I cut out a slice, bent it, welded it back together on both sides and then ground smooth.

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PostPosted: December 12, 2020, 3:00 am 
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Big mental hurdle overcome today, the chassis is essentially finished! (Though I still want to grind out and redo a few of the welds)

Made the final part of the centre crossmember and tacked it in

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And also tidied up the front original crossmember which a previous owner had attacked with an oxy torch :roll:

Before:

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After:

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Next up is finish welding the crossmember, tidy up suspect/messy looking welds on the chassis, and then it's time to make the roll bar.

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PostPosted: December 22, 2020, 8:30 pm 
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Over the last couple of days I've cut out maybe ~25% of the welds on the boxing plates and re-done them to a much better standard. I V-prepped each section again and ran a much better weld in place of my original weld.

Now that that's done, I put the body framework back on to make sure the new crossmember clears everything.

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Perfect! I also put the rear subframe back in place to work on the rear shock mounts.

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As soon as the rear shock mounts are done and I tidy up a couple of loose ends then I've got a rolling chassis with seats and steering!

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PostPosted: June 7, 2021, 11:43 pm 
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This past weekend I managed to spend 4 hours or so on the car. First I discovered that mice had built a nest in the V of the engine... not ideal, but at least it wasn't in the intake runners or anything :oops:

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Then I put together the front suspension to check clearance on everything.

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Full lock is no problem even with these huge temporary 19" wheels I'm using (I want to use 15" wheels on the finished car).

However, there is a tiny amount of interference I need to fix on the front wishbones.

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You can see the shock is fully forward on the mount and yet on full droop the rear of the spring just kisses the wishbone. I'll have to move the front of the spring mount forward about 5-10mm, I'm hopeful I can get away with putting a slight kink in the mount rather than cutting it completely off and rewelding.

Other than that I put some timber under the rear in place of shocks and rolled it around the garage - big motivation boost to see the car like this!

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I think I'll have some time over the coming long weekend to fix the front shock interference and make the top rear shock mounts, which will mean it's actually at the rolling chassis stage! If I have time I'll throw the engine back in for the full effect.

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PostPosted: June 9, 2021, 9:27 am 
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Hooray! A roller!

Don't forget to check the coilover droop clearance.

Is this getting a composite or metal skin?

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PostPosted: June 9, 2021, 6:46 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Hooray! A roller!

Don't forget to check the coilover droop clearance.

Is this getting a composite or metal skin?

:D I'M SO EXCITED :D

Well spotted, the coilover does *just* touch the top A-arm at full droop, I'm going to see if I can fix it this weekend. Hopefully I don't have to cut off the entire mount and re-weld it.

And it's getting a metal skin, which I think is about 40% done, but I'll be making composite rear guards because I think the rolled edge will be easier to do in fibreglass (and if I damage them I'll be able to just pop new ones out of a mould :D )

Thanks for the comment!

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PostPosted: June 27, 2021, 3:40 am 
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Well I had some time pre-lockdown to get the rear upper shock mounts tacked into place, so the car is pretty much a rolling chassis now. A few more things to tidy up and I'll book it's first inspection.

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I was able to bounce up and down on the car to confirm it all clears and it seems to work perfectly. Still need to sort out the droop interference on the front suspension but I don't anticipate too many issues there.

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