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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 23, 2009, 2:56 pm 
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Joined: January 9, 2008, 12:21 am
Posts: 274
Location: Mankato MN
dhempy wrote:


I like the segment and weld idea. I'm not entirely sure how you'll weld the plastic, but I'm sure it's doable.


one method is using sound to weld plastics. its pretty incredible honestly.

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PostPosted: November 23, 2009, 3:01 pm 
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Joined: May 2, 2009, 1:03 pm
Posts: 1389
Location: The Humid State of North Carolina
dhempy wrote:
Pity exchanging them isn't viable...that really is the ideal solution.

I'm still scratching my head how you're even getting close to squeezing a pair of 21" seats into a 442. I had to check your build log to be sure you've got a tunnel with a driveshaft in it. 1" + 21 + 5 + 21 + 1" is 49", which is 3" wider than a 442, if memory serves. Even if you somehow had a 4" wide tunnel, it still doesn't add up.

I like the segment and weld idea. I'm not entirely sure how you'll weld the plastic, but I'm sure it's doable. Seems like HF has a plastic welder. Worst case, two thin strips of metal with some adhesive and screws or something.

Got pix?

-dave


You want Pix... You got Pix!! Yes, you are correct, a +442 is 46" on the outside... now minus the frame -2.. and the tunnel -6.25... and it's a good bit smaller! But with a bit of engineering and axle grease it can be done!! See proof below!! :wink: :shock: WOW.. just looked at that math... a bit over 18.75 for each seat... good thing I didn't do that before I started working on it or I would have thought it impossible to fit in.. but then.. as long as no one tells them.. bees are happy to keep right on flying, right?? :)

I hadn't entertained the cut/weld option as I don't have a plastic welder and at $80 (current HF sale price), I'd be no better off than returning the seat... actually a good bit deeper in the hole!

The section and strip/fastener option is a good one in my mind, and if I need to I'd probably go this route. Lay up some extra padding... but hopefully Horizenjob's experience will echo here and they'll accept their new shape without any fuss.

That's the hope anyhow!!

KS


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PostPosted: October 27, 2010, 12:49 am 
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Joined: May 19, 2010, 12:36 pm
Posts: 36
if u can get something large enough to sit the seat in that will hold water and a old electric kettle and pull the heat mechanism out and rig it to warm up the container full of water.
i've done a thing were i get a large metal trash can put a electric kettle at the bottom fill the can up with water and dump a dirt bike gas tank in their with some ritt's dye and safety wire the kettle trigger down so it keeps the thing hot no matter what and let it sit over night and sure enough the water stayed hot enough to settle the dye in the plastic.
it could work. the kettle has the energy to boil water and if given enough time could make it hot enough to boil the entire container of water.

so basically anything that will hold the bottom part of ur seat with water and something to keep the water hot, should be enough to soften up the plastic and allow u to mold it

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PostPosted: October 27, 2010, 10:26 pm 
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Joined: January 14, 2009, 2:24 am
Posts: 505
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
botbasher wrote:
I hadn't entertained the cut/weld option as I don't have a plastic welder and at $80 (current HF sale price), I'd be no better off than returning the seat... actually a good bit deeper in the hole!


But then you'd have the seats and a new tool. Any future seat modifying is practically free. You can't afford not to!


At least, that's roughly my logic with any new tool purchase.

I've got the exact same seats btw. I've got a 4.5" wide tunnel though, they sit in perfectly. Once the driveshaft is mounted permanently then Ican make sure the seats will clear, but I won't have much modifying to do. Whatever I do need I will just trim off the inner/outer bolsters and cap with a flat piece of the same plastic. I'm pretty sure the seats are ABS, you can use regular old plumbing solvent to "weld" ABS together. If it's strong enough for potato cannons, it's strong enough for me.

Especially since the seatbelts are not mounted to the seats in any way, in the event of a crash, there shouldn't be too much load on the seat.


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PostPosted: November 14, 2010, 1:37 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2006, 3:32 pm
Posts: 226
Location: N. Versailles, PA 15137
Guys,
Did anyone ever follow thru on this Summit seat modification? Can they be heated and recurved? Can they be nicely trimmed a 1/2" or so each side? Can they be split down the middle and glued/welded back together? Because I, "on-pupose" offset my 442 frame tranny tunnel to the right I do not expect to have any issues with the driver's side, but I know the passenger's side will be 2" or 3" to small. Have a seat and cover coming and will worry about the passenger's side later. One more question, honest. Do most add a couple of 3/4" square tubes in the cockpit area to mount seats?
Thanks for your help & suggestions, as usual,
Don

See seat solution - next post for the way I solved the seat problem. - Don


Last edited by N. Versailles Cobra on January 6, 2011, 10:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 6, 2010, 6:52 am 
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Joined: December 6, 2010, 6:42 am
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N. Versailles Cobra wrote:
Guys,
Did anyone ever follow thru on this Summit seat modification? Can they be heated and recurved? Can they be nicely trimmed a 1/2" or so each side? Can they be split down the middle and glued/welded back together? Because I, "on-pupose" offset my 442 frame tranny tunnel to the right I do not expect to have any issues with the driver's side, but I know the passenger's side will be 2" or 3" to small. Have a seat and cover coming and will worry about the passenger's side later. One more question, honest. Do most add a couple of 3/4" square tubes in the cockpit area to mount seats?
Thanks for your help & suggestions, as usual,
Don


Hi Everyone,

New here and this is the first post which took my attraction. Versailles it can be modified, heated and curved. Use some plumbing idea and see your results. I don't have much idea on this and I can't give you further suggestions.

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PostPosted: December 7, 2010, 7:22 am 
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Joined: June 4, 2010, 10:47 am
Posts: 179
botbasher,
Make a computer chair outta it and buy one that will fit.


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