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My experience vinyl wrapping my Locost

I’m not qualified to give instructions. With just the one attempt I can not even see being qualified from here. The best I can do is point out some of the mistakes I made. As it is I’m going to re-do the left rear fender.
Tools that help are a good squeegee like the ones sold by the vinyl suppliers. I used the blue one with the felt edge applied to one edge. A good sharp knife. My favorite is the Olfa 30 degree snap off from Metro Restyling. It’s refillable. Vvivids isn’t. Also bought the cutting tape from Metro. The wrap gloves are a help but not necessary. And of course a decent heat gun. Scissors to cut to size.


I thought the nose cone was going to be the hardest. After doing a test corner at the grille opening I decided to give it a go. Turns out the rear fenders were harder for me.

Hint #1. Watch all the how-to videos you can stand. The videos from CKWraps are good. Christian gets a little wordy but he does know his stuff. There are a bunch of others, all pretty good.

Hint #2. Don’t be afraid to break up a section into pieces. Use the knifeless tape to cut the film when you need a seam. This short youtube highlights a very good method for butting the film when you need a seam.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?reload=9&v=C-XkNFL_OKw

Hint #3. You’re going to waste a good deal of film. Deal with it. You will need a margin big enough to get a firm grip on the film to stretch it to where you need it to be. Make sure it’s stuck pretty good at the other end before you start pulling.

Hint #4. Don’t put your heat gun to close or leave it in one place too long. It’s hard to hide/fix holes.

Hint #5. When using the cutting tape be sure to leave a enough extending beyond the edge of the film so starting the tape won’t be a problem.

The scuttle and hood were a snap. All flat with gentle curves. Went on smooth and squeegeed down nicely.
Did the nose cone next. Fought it a bit at first then gave up and went with a top piece that just came down about 4” on the sides.;
The seam for the top piece is just above the headlight. The bottom one runs from the tie rod cut out to the grill. The side pieces were straight forward. Had the nose cone off to fit the bottom piece. Take a scrap and fit it around the opening to get a feel for it. Takes some pulling, pushing and heat but it will form nicely to the contours.



I talked to a tech consultant at Vvivid who had been involved with constructing a Locost so was familiar with it. His suggestion for the rear fenders was one piece starting with 4” on the top flat then pulling it down over the rest. Then pulling the top back to the body, using lots of tugging and heat. I didn’t do that. However I did try to do the rear fenders with one piece and failed miserably. Went with 2 pieces. Seems I could do 90 degrees but the 180 at the fender’s edge dealt me fits. So I made a seam at the apex of the curve. When doing the last little bit you may run into small bubbles that drive you crazy. Just takes patience. Lift the film away from the bubble and press down with your thumb ot fingers and smooth it out. Done right the seam is barely noticeable. My having to redo the left rear fender is due to running out of patience. I would lift the film to chase a bubble and 2 more would pop. You have to keep after them.


For the rear fenders I started by laying 2 lines of cutting tape side by side but not overlapping. Then cutting a piece for the facing edge matching the radius + about 6”. Pulled it over the curve making sure it was smooth over the cutting tapes. Cut this piece first. Now lay the top flat piece on butting up against the body as best you can. Might have to cut some relief cuts in the flap that might sneak up on the body. Next pull it over the edge and past the remaining tape. Smooth down and pull the last tape butting the edges together. Just like the video.
Vvivid sells an after application seal/polish that works pretty good. Helps to avoid scratches.

My efforts are far from perfect. However I am satisfied with it. And in person that color is really cool. I much prefer this to painting it. Downside is the vinyl doesn’t last all that long. They say 3 to 4 years for a vehicle that gets a lot of sun exposure. Mine doesn’t sit out all that much so I’m OK with that.

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Larry in Seattle

Hi Larry!
Thank you for the write up on vinyl wrapping... Good job! We just ordered some 3X5 samples from Metro Restyling. They came in last week, been looking at them and playing with them a bit. (OK, I been playing with them, not TWWTFM) I take it you're happy with their product. Good to know...

I shared your info with the Artistic Director/Cinematographer/Mama Bear here at Team Slotus and she had a few questions:

What variety of knifeless tape did you use? For the stripes on the Slotus, some of which are gonna be kind of "swoopy", we have been thinking that the "Design Line" single strand knifeless tape is the one. Is that what you used?

You mention being careful with the heat gun so as not to melt/blow holes in the vinyl. Do you think a hair dryer would be hot enough to work, and less likely to make holes?

And again, thanks for posting your experiences-

JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Good day JD!

I sourced most of my materials from Vvivid. Metro Restyling can also supply all the materials you will need. They have a longer roll of 3M Design Line tape and their knife is a bit better and refillable. That 30 degree blade cuts like a scalpel. Buy one, you will like it a lot. Back when I was using an X-Acto with the #11 blades I would have loved one of these. I thought it did a better job than the X-Acto.

The tape is pretty neat. Just don't rush it. Laying out your design is pretty easy using the tape and the cut edges are clean and sharp. Their how-to videos are good. I strongly suggest you watch some. And when starting the string into the vinyl be sure to hold the edge being cut so it cuts, not pulls.

You don't need a lot of heat. A good hair dryer might do the trick just fine. I didn't try it thinking it blew too hard. No experience to be able to compare.

I had a couple of sample pieces of 3M film that I too played with. Went with the Vvivid because their sample of metallic blue was more to my liking. I did find that the 3M film stuck better than Vvivids. Both conformed well.

I say just give it a try. If I can do it, anybody can.

Good luck!

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Larry in Seattle

That looks great! I had been looking more towards Plasti Dip, but I'll have to keep this in mind as well.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

Hi Justin,

Is there any kind of meeting coming up? Perhaps a trip to visit Tom's Car 9? Would like for you folk to see the car in it's latest incarnation. Nothing mechanical. The interior is spruced up and the color changed.

If you decide to try the wrap route let me know. Might be able to assist.

Cheers!

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Larry in Seattle

Re-did the left rear. Turned out much better. Seam is barely noticable. No wrinkles this time.

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Larry in Seattle

Hi Larry, my garage is always available for a gathering. Just let me know when so I can get it cleaned up and presentable.

BTW, you've inspired me to order two vinyl wrap samples: Brushed Aluminum and Satin White Aluminum. Both are 3M product samples from Rvinyl via Amazon. I'm looking at wrapping the nose cone after I finish modifying it.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Hi Larry-
You've inspired us (me and TWWTFM) to order some samples of vinyl wrap material and some of the knifeless tape. Played with them both on an piece of aluminum from the former radiator surround on the Slotus. The tape is going to take some getting used to, starting to peel the filament out of the tape itself is a trick, so is getting it to start cutting. More practice is needed, obviously.

But then, I asked TWWTFM if she could replace the plain black strip across the top of my helmet visor with a totally kewell sparkly green one.
It turns out she could!Hey, I know it's a small step, but ya gotta start somewhere!

Peace, Love and Sparkly Green-
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Hi there JD,

Yes starting the tape is the boogers. The pros say to double it back on itself. They don't say how much. I found (and you too by now) you need to leave a generous portion beyond the edge of the film to be able to do that successfully and free the string. I had to use a hemostat to grab the line. It kept slipping out of my grasp. If you don't snap it the string will most often lift the film instead of cutting it. Hold the film down and with a kind of yank motion initiate the cut. The rest is a piece of cake.

Hope you folk are having fun with this. I enjoyed doing mine. Anxious to see what you come up with. I know it will be creative. The stripe on the helmet looks good.

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Larry in Seattle

Again I firstly apologize for corrupting a perfectly good thread.

I'm going to relax and have a cigarette now............

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Well JD,

I did say you were creative!

Perry, I didn't think you smoked.

Cheers!

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Larry in Seattle

After some of Perry's comments and pictures*, I think a better question might be to ask him just 'zackly WHAT he's been smoking!?!?!?

*Perry, you know which pictures I'm talkin' about!


JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I've found not all knifeless tapes are created equal either. My buddy had some red stuff (I think it was called wrap cut) that was a real pain to start and often ended up pulling the filament out from under the tape instead of cutting through it. I've found the genuine 3M Knifeless tape to be much easier start and produces a cleaner cut.

I have to say I'm not that impressed with the durability of wrap as a final finish. My car has been on the road for 3 seasons now and the rock chips and cone rash are starting to take their toll. I've also had a real problem with bubbles forming under the vinyl over time. When I first did the wrap it looked great, but within a couple months I started to see bubbles forming, and they just keep coming back. It only seems to have happened on the fiberglass parts and not the aluminum ones so maybe it's the epoxy off gassing over time? I loved the ease and no mess of the vinyl process but I think when it comes time to redo it, I'll be going for a nice paint instead.

The suppliers I used only sold the 3M knifeless. Can't comment on the red one but if the quality was less than 3M I can see where that would happen.

So far no bubbles but my film has only been on a little over 2 months. But as I am a terrible painter if it has to be redone I would wrap again. My main reason for wrap in the first place was the color selection and price. The colors I was looking for in paint was going to run around $300 pint. Considering my painting skills that would be a big waste and I'm rather new in the area and have limited contacts hiring a painter would be a crap shoot.

So if mine bubble, fades. or lifts I probably will wrap again. The vinyl folks claim a 3-4 year life and I went into this hoping I could extract a bit more but prepared for the inevitable.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Cheers

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Larry in Seattle

.....have we heard how much the wrap and supplies cost for a 7?

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada