MGA 1500 engine not firing on #2- advice

[KB58]

I still recommend measuring compression yourselves, not taking the seller's word for it. If compression's good, replace coil, then report back.

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

MV8, I hate to be a naysayer, I fail to see how swapping the good cylinder #1 and bad cyl #2' wires, and the problem stays with #2 cylinder can be indicative of a bad plug wire.

Why would anyone ever naysay the help they have asked for? Better to graciously accept any help, then do what you want to do.

But to answer your point, flexing a carbon plug wire is enough to go from "ok" to an open. That is why I said intermittent.

[Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F]

Also, get an inline clear spark checker.

finger.jpeg

This is my inline spark checker, been using it since 1977, a bit worn out but still useable, only problem I have with it's is that it hard to focus on it because my eyes are twitching and my nerves are jumpy (and sometimes I bite my tongue and my eyes roll back in my head when using it).

Chuck could use your finger right now. I don't think he wants the one I'm holding up.
That's another joke Chuck! Zing!

[a.moore]

I'd do compression again and a leak down test. No use chasing other things before you're sure everything mechanical is good.

[rx7locost]

Last Wed night, another compression test was done, again not by me personally. 120-115-115-120. I don't get much time without 4 other guys with ideas on what to try next. They did measure the cam lift and #2 cams were the same lift as a good cylinder. T We tried a new rotor, cap and wires resulting in the same old, #2 cylinder providing no power. One person seemed to think that the #2 distributor cam lobe looked worn more than the others. I looked and did not see what they were seeing. I suggested swapping in a used one just to eliminate that as the cause. The end result is that the owner decided just to buy a new distributor with a Pertronics ignition module. That should eliminate anything related to the distributor.

[rx7locost]

While waiting for the spring clamps to arrive, I tackled the fuel pump. It was straight forward installation with only one issue to overcome. The location was in the middle of the embossed rib which required flattening said rib. There was too much depth for me to shrink. I ended up cutting slots flattening and then welding the slots back together. This then required the painstaking task of filing the inside of the welds flat as best I could. Top side grinding flat goes without saying. Fortunately, it worked out. Then I painted the area. With careful measuring, I then laid out the location for access in the boot. With fingers crossed, I committed destruction and cut a large hole in the boot floor. It worked out perfectly, even if I do say so myself.

I received the spring clamps last night around 6 o-clock. Installing them is on today's docket. I have only 10 clamps where the MG's OEM springs require 12. Oh well!

[Kartracer47]

Possibly rotate the distributor 90' or 180'. See if another cylinder is dead and if #2 is firing?