LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently April 19, 2024, 4:48 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: May 2, 2019, 10:12 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: June 8, 2010, 8:02 pm
Posts: 621
Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
Hey guys.

Since we have so many bright people here I'll throw a problem out there in hopes of some input. For the last 20yrs or so car makers are designing the clearances between the pads and the caliper bracket too tight. This reduces pad life significantly and is the main cause of brake wear on most modern cars. It more common than not to have to hammer the pads out of the brackets when removing. What happens is the pads and the caliper bracket rust, get thicker, and get tight on each other. The worst area is underneath the abutment clips where it creates a hard scale, preventing the pads from sliding.

So, as a mechanic I have two questions:
-what tools would you use to remove the scale build up on the caliper bracket? Current technique involves wire wheel, air chisel to gently break scale, and a square file.
-what product would you coat the area under the abutment clip to reduce future rusting? I've been using NeverSeize, but was wondering if silicone grease may last longer.

On personal vehicles I spend the time to grind down and shaped the pads to have more clearance, but it's not viable to do so on most customer cars.

Thanks for any input.
Cory

_________________
Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: May 2, 2019, 11:25 pm 
Offline
Toyotaphobe
User avatar

Joined: April 5, 2008, 2:25 am
Posts: 4829
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
I've never seen this on any of my cars.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: May 3, 2019, 8:54 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 6416
Location: West Chicago,IL
On my cars, I simply apply wheel grease. I too, wire wheel the caliper. I also file the brake pad backing to fit the caliper if necessary. If I had the time, I would try some form of rust converter on the caliper as wire wheels do not get the root of the rust, only the top surface. In a shop situation, there is no time for that to dry.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: May 5, 2019, 9:21 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: February 2, 2017, 1:02 am
Posts: 70
Location: Illinois
I wire wheel the caliper brackets after the stainless clips are removed. Replace the clips. Then use a light coating of brake parts lubricant. My favorite so far has been some purple stuff made by permatex. Available at most parts stores for around $18. I haven't seen any more brake pads seizing since I've been doing brakes with this stuff (my cars or customer cars). I have found anti seize can't take the heat of disc brakes and tends to cook and/or wash off quickly.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY