How about an update 11 years later?
I don't remember when, exactly, but I did put an OEM limited slip in the car, with a Techno Toy Tuning rebuild kit. This was fantastically worth it.
The Megasquirt has still been going on. I tried for the longerst time to get it "perfect" on speed density, but ITB's really don't work well that way. I gave up and went Alpha-N, and it was instantly more driveable.
The other thing I have been doing is tweaking the bins to have a whole lot more resolution at lower throttle openings, checking datalogs to see where I could really use a specific bin, and just refining the off-idle fueling.
I also figured it would be a good time to change the timing belt. I rebuilt the engine back in '06, but it's been 14 years, so I figured I'd replace the belt anyway. Took about an hour. Did up a dandy video for y'all:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSEeYmDVqwQI also added a list of recommendations to my build on my own website, listed here:
- Move the entire cowl back about 4″ to 6″ from the book plans – brings windshield closer, less wind buffeting, and looks less “cartoonish” in proportion
- Raise the rear deck to be the same height as the cowl – looks better
- Use round tube instead of flat bar for the sides of the cockpit by the rear fender – hurts your ribs less
- Use round tube for the transmission tunnel – more comfortable
- Insulate the inside of the transmission tunnel – much more comfortable
- Make sure the pedal box is completely sealed from heat entry – much much more comfortable
- Bend the bottom rear corners of the body to match the top curves
- Make the frame rails under the axle horizontal at least until you clear the axle – more droop travel
- Build the chassis so that everything still clears when the suspension is completely bottomed out – it’s hard to change it later
- Point the steering column at the axle center line – makes more sense to your brain subconsciously
- Run ALL the engine compartment wiring on the non-exhaust manifold side of the chassis
- Use a VW rad reservoir or or some sort of rad fill at an easily accessible highest point
- Modify the brakes to have MORE braking force on the REAR
- The fuel filler needs to be on the outside of the car, not in the boot – pain to fill up when you have four slicks strapped to the rollbar
- Daily driving with a 5-point harness gets old, real quick
And the Sumitomo HTR tires I had bought way back (the cheapest of the cheapest of the cheap) were now pretty old, so I replaced them with Federal 595SS in 185/60R13. Also super cheap ($310US off eBay).
And the ignition system was having some issues, running on 1 cylinder and flooding the cylinders with fuel. I did a wack of chasing, found that the latest update of TunerStudio needs JRE8.0 to run, but JRE8.0 won't install on my WinXP lappy, and now TunerStudio wouldn't talk to MegaSquirt. Took me a while to find an older copy to download, but I was able to talk to MegaSquirt again.
MegaSquirt -seemed- happy with everything.... Opened the entire wiring harness, chased and measured every wire, cleaned and tested injectors, tried two different EDIS modules, plus a different coil pack, and ended up changing plug wires. I think that fixed it.
Could it be that EDIS needs to see a specific resistance of plug wire? I -had- been using NGK wires for the 4AGE, but those, too, are pretty old, and have been rubbing against the underside of the too-hot-to-touch hood.