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I'm with you guy's. The Cobra is much quicker (~540hp) but the 7 handles far better and, believe it or not, there's more room in the cockpit of my 7 than the Cobra. The tunnel is massively wide, the pedal box narrow and skewed to the left, steering wheel rubs my legs. And while I'm sure my 7 flex's I can't say I notice, however I do notice frame flex in the Cobra. Still, I wouldn't be disappointed if Santa dropped one off in the driveway

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Regards, Ron

Our receptionist had been nudging at going for a ride in the 7 ever since seeing it in the parking lot. Finally made some time to make it happen this week. I’m sharing the story because I’m blown away by what she then did with a pencil…

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Regards, Ron

Going back to your January post with the Suede seats being done, do you plan on doing anything about a head rest?

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

I’m not one to say never so I’ll just say its not currently on my radar.

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Regards, Ron

My Classic Roadsters 427 Cobra's tunnel is not a wide as that! But many argue that since it was widened 3" and stretched 6" in the cabin, it is not true to the originals. But I like it.
I keep seeing people cover their seats with the quilted fabric (latest phase in exotics), I cannot decide if I like it or not. I like the fabric, but it seems strange in a Cobra replica since it was originally built as a race car.


This is the color I hope to paint my CR 427, It was Shelby's 1st color choice for his race tram cars

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Thom

Your tunnel looks to be much better! Also not a fan on the quilting. I like your interior much better, more mature, less blingy.

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Regards, Ron

Well damn Mikus, I completely missed your post. Sorry ‘bout that. I wasn’t able to find any good progress pictures but I’ll sketch something up in a day or two.

Went to a car show this weekend and won best sports car. Totally unexpected and a pleasant surprise. Also met a couple nice folks familiar with 7’s, one with a Honda powered WCM Ultralight. We’ve planned a blat in a couple weeks - should be fun.

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Regards, Ron

Mikus,

There is a .080" aluminum vertical wall that forms the forward face of the scuttle (bolted to a 1" flange turned up at the bottom). On top of that are two back-to-back .040" angles hand-formed around the radius of the scuttle wall, and backed with an .080" aluminum 'backing plate' with #10 machine screws to secure in place. 2" wide adhesive-backed gasket is attached to the top of the angles forming a 'ledge' for the scuttle top (wrapper) and hood to sit on. The scuttle wrapper has 2" flanges turned inward at the bottom and four bolts fasten it to steel tabs welded to the frame.

Hopefully that all makes sense. It's non-traditional, but a fairly easy way to get the shape. No doubt it’s a heavier method and could easily be lightened up a bit.

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Regards, Ron

Thanks for sharing the details.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Ron, what product did you use for the "light duty open cell adhesive-backed gasket" material you used for your scuttle?
Thanks!

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Hi Tom, it was something I had around the shop so I don’t have a part number, but it's a common material that you should be able to find at any large home improvement store. Its 3/4” x 1/4” and very very soft. It will fully compress with a light touch. First picture below shows it forming almost perfectly around my finger. Second picture is the ‘ledge’ gasket, firm and somewhat rubbery with a textured top surface. McMaster-Carr part number 93625K159

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Regards, Ron

The top one in the photo looks like standard insulating foam strips for windows and doors. They come in a variety of widths, and have a self-sticking side revealed when you pull off a paper strip. It usually comes rolled up. It's very cheap.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Exactly, should be easy to find

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Regards, Ron

Thanks, Ron. Hopefully I'll be at the point of needing that kind of gasketing before too long. But first, a question on your chassis paint.

Did you use VHT Roll Bar and Chassis paint for your topcoat? IIRC you had primer on the chassis before top coating. Any compatibility issues between the VHT and the primer?

I've primed my frame with Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer which is enamel-based and will be top coating soon. I like the VHT product and have used it on bare metal but never over primer.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

The only VHT I used was hi-temp for the exhaust (holding up well so far). The frame primer is 1st Zinc Primer Coat and the paint is Rustoleum Satin Enamel. I did manage to put a scratch in the frame installing the engine. The floors only have a couple of scratches and that is from the little bits of gravel that get tossed into the car EVERY time I drive it. The horizontal tube below the knees is what I stand on every time I get into and out of the car and it still looks fine after 1100 miles and a gazillion ingress's/egress's. I had planned to cover that tube with a non-slip surface in part because I expected the paint to get trashed from the constant stepping, but it's held up surprisingly well. All in all, I'm not dissatisfied with it.

Powder coating isn't prohibitively expensive in my area and if I build another car (yes I said the quiet part aloud) I'll consider going that route.

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Regards, Ron