LocostUSA.com

After a whole bunch of life gets in the way finally got something done. Fuel cell is now mounted. Now I can take everything back apart and finish weld a lot of tacks. When finish installing the cell it will have 1/8" rubber on all sides.

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Yep I got a build:

Not a whole lot new to report, to many other projects been taking my time. Been doing a lot of brackets and tabs, and strips to seal interior. But Fed Ex paid me a visit today to drop off these goodies. Full Race twinscroll manifold and EFR 7654 with .92 housing and both manifold and turbo housing 2000 degree coated. No free hat, had to settle for a license plate frame. Now I can stick the motor back in with these goodies and see where I can snake the steering shaft through.

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Yep I got a build:

That's a large turbo, especially in a locost! What's your power goals?

Big? Bigger than a T28 but not really it's smallest of the midframes and twinscrolls need higher ar ratio. About the same size as a 30 series Garrett. Makes about 5lbs boost at 2000 rpm so not laggy. Turbo & manifold combo good for 540hp but tuning around 380 - 400hp to the ground.

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Yep I got a build:

"Turbo & manifold combo good for 540hp but tuning around 380 - 400hp to the ground".
Wow! Most of my friends think I am nuts puting a stock-ish SR20DET into mine. Your car is going to be ballistic LOL. Your Weight-to-Power Ratio should best cars that end in a vowel.

http://exoticcars.about.com/od/toptens/ ... c-Cars.htm

http://www.dragsource.com/index.php?nav ... lctoview=7

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My build log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13890

If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower.
- Mark Donohue

Ought to be fun to drift 'cause I know it'll never hook up in first half of gears.

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Yep I got a build:

Sadly.....the power to weight ratio doesn't exactly work like that once you bring wind resistance into play. My car is a sr20det making a shade over 500 whp and another guy named Bob on the lotus7usa site makes almost 600 whp. While the cars are fast they can't ever put the power down till 100 mph, and by that time aero is coming into play and the cars slow down way to much.

To be fair they are still stupid fast, but not as fast as you would think.

JR

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Attention TURBO LOVERS, Great book -----> How to turbocharge and Tune your Engine
Sold: GT30/71R My00 S2k
My Car: Custom Build Lotus Super 7

That's why after we get it licensed as a seven gonna go for a Mallock MK20B look to help with the aero and make use of the power.

Not sure of the Full-Race manifold might have to build my own for turbo placement plus they gave me the wrong wastegate bracket.
On a different note here's my new tow rig.

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Yep I got a build:

Finally I found a company that does rear rotors for the t-bird upright with cobra hubs ie: 5 X 4.5" and still uses the mid model thin 10" rotor with stock calipers and brackets. So we bought us some shiny new drilled and slotted rotors and new calipers w/brackets in powdercoat yellow to match the blinding rear axles and ss brake lines with frame mounts and clips and all hardware. Not locost at all but neither is anything else on the car. Will post pics and let you know who they is when we get them and know they fit like claimed.


And Mr Hennessy I haven't forgot about you just haven't got to it yet.

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Yep I got a build:

Hey long time no see. Another project going on right now is pretty much the reason for no updates. In the process of turning my old Mustang into a drift /track car and trying to get it done before summer. So far I have it half way stripped. I've braced the frame underneath with subframe connectors, jacking rails and cross braces, solid mounted the steering rack,converting it to IRS, new wide body to install, new front control arms to give it a 2" wider front track and corrected geometry with full adjustability and much more steering angle and spindles with 2" drop and adjustable steering angle. Double ajustable caster camber plates with spherical bearing I just sent to Germany so KW can build the 2way race coil overs to fit the plates. I have the IRS together, all sperical or delrin on moving parts and building the diff right now. Could go on and on but I'll just leave ya with this.

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Yep I got a build:

Hello! i am on a similar project, i wonder what are your plans for cooling? I have a megan aluminium rad, and a front mount intercooler, Spal fan behind the rad, as much room as i can get in beetween the rad and the intercooler. I will let the air go out on the top of the nose. and pu some more vent on the hood. I will also add a oil cooler on the passenger side panel .. Im planning 280 -300 hp.

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Making a Deman SR27 lapping and street car
Any question on driveshaft, i will be more than happy to answer!

A 15" tall 3" dual pass griffin radiator. The nose cone is raised 2" so intercooler can be stacked on top just in front of rockers and keep the intake run short with a little bit of ducting to redirect air. And yes a oil cooler.

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Yep I got a build:

Do you happen to have a part number for the radiator you are using, I am on the hunt for a replacement for the monster I had picked out.

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BrianG701
Don't know if you have the width for this one but good for 600 ponies. 22 in. Wide, 13 in. High, 3 in. Thick http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-58185-xc A little narrower 17 in. Wide, 18.5 in. Height, 2.5 in. Thick and still good for 6. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-2-58135-h

Found them here at Griffin Radiator http://www.griffinrad.com/

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Yep I got a build:

Little more work on the Mustang. Everythings still shiny and new. Everything that could have a spherical does rest is delrin, diff is solid mounted and subframe has urethane bushings. Was that a bitch to lower the rear of the diff with the girdled rear cover. Ford didn't allow any extra clearance for lowering the rear hit the tie rod mounts and I needed another 1/4". The diff angle stock is the same as the tranny instead of off setting it. Don't know what they were thinking there but its right now.

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Yep I got a build: