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PostPosted: May 30, 2022, 7:27 am 
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You can also run a little too high on the voltage, then pause to dissipate the heat (Stitch welding). It is a really good technique for this type of fab work.
Pre-heating with a torch works really well too. Even if you start at 300*, it helps a lot


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PostPosted: May 30, 2022, 11:51 pm 
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Sean in CT wrote:
Even if you start at 300°, it helps a lot


There, fixed that for ya

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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
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Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
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PostPosted: June 3, 2022, 8:40 pm 
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Depending on who's Mig machine / Torch combo you are running, you can get smaller diameter cups, and then go as far as using a hammer to flatten the end out to get further into the joint. The problem with increasing the stickout is that it puts more of the energy back into the wire, and not the joint. Yes it will "work", but you run the risk of having minimal penetration. Also, be careful on how much you increase the gas flow. Too much will result in a venturi effect and actually suck the atmosphere INTO the weld puddle, and you will learn what really bad porosity looks like. No more than about 30-35 cfh. I was on an inspection job one time and the guy had the regulator at about 80 CFH, it was sweating for God's sake! Every single weld was loaded with porosity, Dozens. He had to be taken off the job. Sean has a good point on pre-heating, but with one caveat. Pre-heating has the same net effect as raising your amperage, and if you can't consistently check your temperature before you start a joint, you run the risk of overheating the joint and blowing through. I'd use a contact type thermocouple instead of an infrared as they are much more accurate. Cheers!

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PostPosted: June 5, 2022, 1:09 pm 
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Thank you, Gentlemen. I've been experimenting with all your suggestions. Shortening the cup, hammering it flatter, adding gas dams, playing with the voltage, feed, heat and gas, etc. all of which have improved my narrow joint welds. My biggest concern remains weld penetration and strength. Since most of my narrow joints are in round tube, it's just the last little bit that gets tough to close. Things can get a bit lumpy closing them completely, but I think the joint strength is there if not the aesthetics.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: June 5, 2022, 5:19 pm 
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When closing off both sections of a tube, make sure to drill a small vent hole, so you're not fighting expanding gasses when closing the tube. Even a 1/16 hole will help, just make sure you plug it after with a quick tack to prevent it rusting from the inside out ;)


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PostPosted: July 20, 2022, 11:04 pm 
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Hi Tom,

I'm thinking about my own body panels, and planning to use the "nut plate" system you and Martin have used. I have a couple of questions.

1) You rolled your body panels over the round tubes. It looks like the bottom of your rear most panel, the one on the boot, is rolled over at the bottom too. Is that right? If so, how do you plan to remove it, or do you? The photos are on page 73 of your build log.

2) Martin didn't turn his panels over the tubes, He just took them flush with the top and bottom of the chassis rails. I take it you did your roll over in "The Book" fashion with a torch and wooden slappers?

I think I see a way to add a horizontal "top cap" to the upper end of the sheet panels to finish them without rolling them over. The bottom ofmy rear most panels are going to run past the chassis tubes. I'm going to put a panel on the kickup of my boot, and join the lower end of the vertical panels to that at its edge.

3) In Martin's build log, you mentioned doing a tutorial on his nut plate manufacture method. Did you ever do that? I'd be interested in getting hold it if you did. I'm going to be making mine pretty soon.

Hope all is well with you,

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 21, 2022, 12:25 pm 
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Lonnie, congrats for getting you chassis off the table. I'm finding the finish-weld process and priming detail to be taking longer than planned, but nothing new there. The nice summer weather isn't helping either.

On the paneling: My top and bottom tubes are 1.5" diameter. I rolled the paneling about 90* to the middle of the top tube and about 60* on the bottom tube. Makes for easy fit up and removal of the panels. Just used a wooden/leather slapper and annealed as required.

I'll dig out my notes on making the nut plate t@bs and post the info. Key to success was using the drilling jig tool from Aircraft Spruce. Martin's suggestion and well worth the cost.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 21, 2022, 4:01 pm 
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Thanks, Tom.

I tried the link to Aircraft spruce that Martin left, but it doesn't work anymore.

Using the search argument "drill jig" there, I got 21 hits. Several are very similar, and they have them for #6, #8 and #10 screws. Is there a product name and number on the jig you have?

Here are some examples from the Aircraft Spruce online catalog.
Attachment:
Drill jig #1.jpg

Attachment:
Drill jig #2.jpg

Attachment:
Drill jig #3.jpg


Cheers,


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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 21, 2022, 8:40 pm 
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Lonnie, that looks like it. Mine is by ATI Tools, #AT518H. I'm using #8 screws and nut plates.

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 21, 2022, 9:13 pm 
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Lonnie, here's the process I used for making the floating nut plate t@bs. I typically made a couple dozen in a batch, well over a hundred total.

Start with a length of 16g. cold rolled steel 1.5" wide.
Mark t@b cut lines every 1", allowing for the saw kerf. Don't cut t@bs off yet.
Mark a center line the length of the steel.
Drill center holes with a #19 drill. Mine are 3/8" down from the top of each 1" t@b.
Drill rivet holes with a #41 drill bit, using the template/tool as a drill guide. I typically did all of one side, then flipped the tool over and did all of the other side. Note: The #19 and #41 holes may need to be "reamed" with a drill bit for the template/tool to insert smoothly.
Open the center holes to 13/64". This allows for the 'floating" of the nut plates.
Countersink the rivet holes with a 120* counter sink. Note: After countersinking, the rivet holes may need to be "reamed" for the rivets to insert cleanly.
Rivet the nut plates in place. Note: Don't fully "pull" the first rivet before fitting the second rivet in each nut plate.
Cut the t@bs off using a horizontal band saw.
Using a bench-top belt sander, smooth the edges of the t@bs and round top corners to 1/4"R.

Have fun! :wink:

For attaching the panels, after welding the t@bs to the chassis mark the hole to be drilled through the screw hole onto the panel back side with a sharp point. Drill panel to 11/64".

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: July 22, 2022, 11:00 am 
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Thanks so much for putting all that info together, Tom. It is much appreciated.

Best,

Lonnie

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: August 23, 2022, 8:43 pm 
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Three months after my last rotisserie post I’m almost done with the chassis welding, grinding, prepping and priming. Fitted the Terry hoop panels in the dash bulkhead, added thru-frame passageways at the front of the tunnel for fuel and brake lines and welded on br@ck^ts for the inertial fuel cutoff switch and rear brake proportioning valve. Still a little primer brush work to do in the nooks and crannies and probably some clean-up grinds after I test fit all the removable panels (again.) And then there’s priming under the rotisserie mounts…
Attachment:
P7255378-1.jpg
Attachment:
P7255379-1.jpg

Basically this phase has been a PITA, but will be a major milestone when completed.

Next comes fitting aluminum sheet floor panels which will be riveted on after a rattle can topcoat of the chassis. The floor in front of the roll hoop bulkhead is straight forward with just a few challenges.

But the floor area aft of the roll hoop is more interesting. It’s a big panel area that needs to be removable for diff install/remove. The panel will also carry strakes to form a diffuser. Some (removable?) substructure will need to be added and probably a couple more br@ck^ts welded onto the chassis. The fuel tank location complicates the available space a bit. Still sorting the design details out in my mind.
Attachment:
P7265380-1.jpg

So, some good progress, but not ready to start final assembly yet.


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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: August 24, 2022, 1:49 pm 
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Great, if tedious, progress! Is it just me or does the chassis look more 'substantial' in white? Makes me wonder what it weighs at this point.

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PostPosted: August 24, 2022, 7:04 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
Great, if tedious, progress! Is it just me or does the chassis look more 'substantial' in white? Makes me wonder what it weighs at this point.
Hi Justin. Yes, it definitely looks better in primer. That stuff covers a multitude of sins. :oops:

Way back when (page 15 from the first post) I weighed the incomplete chassis at 185 lbs. and made the bold prediction of 225lbs. for the completed chassis. But I dunno though, the way this thing has attracted t@bs and br@ck^ts... :roll:

I plan to weigh it when it comes off the rotisserie. First use of my bargain postal scales.

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Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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PostPosted: August 25, 2022, 9:18 am 
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Looking good Tom. Yes once done it will be a huge milestone reached.
Then there's nothing more satisfying than final assembly.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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