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Thanks for the kind words. The mustang was my first attempt at a full restoration, and very likely my last. By the time I cut the rust out, there was essentially nothing left but the frame rails. The entire floor pan is new, the roof I got off an otherwise crappy '66. I learned a lot and always enjoy my time in the garage as a stress relief, so not a loss. Some details:

- engine and tranny from a 90 GT, including the fuel injection.
- 8" rear with 3:55 gears
- disk brakes all around
- power rack and pinion steering

Hadn't really thought of that yet. The back of the frame (the boot?) has not been started, so the photos are a little deceiving. Removing the differential won't be a simple task, but if it can't drop down, I'll be sure to leave enough space to pull the diff. Thanks for the heads up.

I love a good resto mod. Late model power in a classic is nice. I feel the same way about my Mini that you do about the Mustang; I don't know if I'll ever tackle that much rust again.

Nice work.

Looking at the other pics it looks like you're a skilled craftsman at any project you take on.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

Love the color. What paint system did you use (single stage, urethane, etc)?

Repainting the instrument needles makes a huge difference. I brushed aircraft instrument needle paint on the needles then cleared the faces with rattle can satin without taking the instrument apart. Testors has a fluorescent red for models that works well. Fluorescent orange isn't red enough imho.

I used this shift boot which is the original type for the bezel:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake- ... oCf5Pw_wcB

To keep debris out of the cowl which is difficult to remove, on my bronco 2, I fit 304 stainless mesh screens to my cowl, with tape around the edges, folded to get into the space, and held in with short pieces of stainless safety wire. If I did it again, I'd use welded screens which do not try to unravel. I don't have a good pic of the mesh.

On the locost diff, I assumed you'd remove one half shaft and spindle, then slide the diff out the side. That's how I've pulled tbird irs diffs in the salvage yard. You could just slide it to one side far enough to drop a wing or make one lower tube removable.

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Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
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LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

So, after several developments (new job, new granddaughter - for whom I of course built a crib, home projects, etc) I finally have some time to spend on the Seven. I struggled with the rear section - by adding the hoops and completing the rest, I would exceed the "basement extraction envelope". My solution was a removable bustle. I built a frame from 3/4" angle and bolted it to the chassis. Then I welded the remaining steel to it. This allows me to fabricate the fuel tank and aluminum pieces. After removing the frame from the basement, I will bolt everything back up and weld it all together.

Why not use some mounting tabs so the tail section is removable? All the parts can be finished up in your work area, and the tail is replaceable if some bozo runs into you.

Geeze, I wander off for a day or two and alllll kinds of stuff goes on!?!?

Great looking Mustang! Nice engine swap, love the tubular replacements for the "Monte Carlo" bars, good paint... What's not to like?

And furniture? Don't show this page to TWWTFM, she'll be wanting to trade me in...

I acquired one of those "Granddaughter" things about 8 months ago. Progress on the car has slowed to a crawl. But it's worth it.
Even if she does look like Earl. (Poor child...)

Oh, yeah, and you're building a Locost? I'd forgotten... Heehee...


JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

I thought of that, but was concerned about the strength with just bolts. Besides, I figured if I'm fixing damage, it's six of one, half dozen of the other.

The don't show her these pictures. If I do say so myself, these came out rather nice.

Wow! Very nice job on the crib and change table. You now have something your granddaughter can pass on down the line to her family.

Roy

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Build log http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16510

After looking at several options, I opted for the OBP pedal box. Damn, this is one nice setup.





I ordered through Pegasus. $499 delivered, including master cylinders and remote reservoirs. Probably a little extravagant for a true Locost, but WTH.

Sorry, it's been a while between updates, but I am making some progress. I am glad I delayed installed the driver side firewall while I waited to buy the pedal box. This would have been difficult to fabricate on the frame.



Pedal box in place:



Got Jack's roll bar installed:



And mocked up the fuel tank. This gives me 9.1 gallons - a little less than I would like. I can expand an inch or so vertically and horizontally an get to 12 gallons and still have a little trunk space.



Next came the e-brake. The Vodou tunnel is very small and doesn't leave much space for the handle. I also didn't want to be banging my elbow on it constantly. I opted to stick in on the outside of the passenger side of the tunnel (similar to the way my Factory Five Mark II was, and that didn't cause any issue for the passenger).





Next I'll work on the radiator, then some wiring. Once I put aside a little cash, I'll buy the brakes and run those lines.

I mounted the radiator and fan from a 95 Civic - it seems a little small, but I'm more accustomed to 8 cylinder radiators.



I had to mount it slightly off center, towards the passenger side, due to interference with the steering rack support.





Finished welding the supports and mounted the e-brake cables:



The aluminum will be a bit tricky here.



Got the brake lines and new flaring tool from Eastwood yesterday, so I'll mount the master cylinders and start the brake and hydraulic clutch lines next.

I have had a Moto Lita steering wheel for a while and decided to install on the Locost. To add a little touch, I made a center from mahogany and inlaid a 7 made from maple:



In the wheel:



First time mounting the steering wheel:

Excellent, you look almost Ritzy with that.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.