LocostUSA.com

Thanks RTz, I've got them all now. Now I have to figure out how to open and use them .
-Eric

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

Give Navis Freedom a try. You'll be able to bring in (append) my DWG and point cloud files, move things around, and take measurements. Navis supports MANY file types, so depending on what you're doing you may be able to bring your model in as well. The only real drawback, being a free version, is that you can't save your work.

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Peace, Ron

Rear suspension mocked up. Arm pit tubes (for a lack of a better term) rolled and welded in. Instrument panel formed. P-Brake handle sorted and mounted. Dash/steering reinforcement, as well as a host of time consuming items on the checklist. Have a few misc. br@ckets to fab and weld in and hopefully painting the frame can begin in a couple of weeks.

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Peace, Ron

"Armpit tubes?" Man, I'm not ridin' in your car.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I mean, it seems a technically accurate description

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Peace, Ron

Chassis looks great. I like the original style parking brake lever location.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thank you MiataV8.

Seat belt anchors, fuel tank mounts, fuel filler mount and painted.

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Peace, Ron

Nice to get paint on the frame Ron
But but but, my spidy senses started to tingle looking at the first paint pic. Are those br@cketz located on the top rail for the coilovers? If they are, please, please, please cross tie them to each other as thats a lot of torque on the square tubing the way they are now.
If they're not top mounts for the coilovers, disregard this

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Thanks Perry, your assumption is correct, but I don’t see how cross-tieing alone addresses the concern. The rear br@cket is about an inch from the intersection of three tubes immediately behind so I would expect rotation of the upper tube to be minor. My only concern has been the possibility of tearing the weld point of the upper tube out, rotationally. A cross tie would mainly be beneficial longitudinally, correct? I’m thinking gusseting the rear br@cket rearward would address both.

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Peace, Ron

Ahhhhh, I realize now that you meant to tie the right one to the left one, not the front one to the back one. Thats what I get for reading after a couple glasses of suds I would never be able to get the engine in/out if I did that unless it were something removable. I'll give it some additional thought, but as I mentioned, the rear ear is within an inch of three intersecting tubes so I'm not much concerned about twisting the upper tube.

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Peace, Ron

Yep thats what I meant, you could fab up a bolt in cross bar to tie the PS and DS upper coilover mounts together. Then there is no issue what so ever of that top tube trying to twist, even a little.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Here's a pic of my current build with the coilover top mounts tied together.

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

If you are unable to remove the motor with the cross brace in, consider something removable with a substantial set of bolts and flange.
Eric

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

You should be able to make a removable cross beam using the upper shock mounts to attach the beam, without affecting your paint job. You could also make it the headlight and turn signal mount like many of us have done. Colin Chapman would be proud as each part had to do as many jobs as it was possible to squeeze out of it.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I like this

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Peace, Ron