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I've seen a jericho main case that rotates the bell mount 90, putting all the shift linkage on top and a brkt that raises the shifter for clearance. I guess you are going with an hrb to replace the fork in the footwell.

You could make an over the top front shift arm like the mustangs had for more clearance and use rod ends to tighten things up. 1/2 inch rod to bend as needed and cut threads or weld on bolts to the ends for female 3/8" sphericals.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Yesterday I did some fine tuning on the locations, and I think I have a viable setup. Found that the C4 info I had was not completely accurate. Pinion is offset 1/2". I currently have the engine offset 1" in the chassis. So, for the driveshaft I have the following: Trans and pinion are level horizontally, with a .10* angle each. The trans to pinion is offset in the tunnel 1/2" over 21", which equates to about 1.2*. I also took a play from Yohans build and moved the pedal assembly back about 4", which gives me several extra inches across for the pedal separation. It gives me a pretty comfortable driving position and it will allow me to sheet the trans tunnel, albeit with some funky bends and angles. Since everything inside the tunnel clears, I think I will use a 1" piece of SS roundbar, heat one end and flatten it to sit in the shifter, and then create two bends, bringing the shift knob about 3" to the passenger side to center it, and back about 3" for comfort.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Here is a link to a 60s mustang shifter with the front fork link up over the top of the second fork. Looks like it shaves about an inch. You could make something similar if needed.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jXQAAOSw ... s-l300.jpg

The ford T5 with the adapter sounds practical. I wonder if the T45 was ever adapted to anything other than a modular.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for the input, I see what you are saying now! It is not the shift handle that is the problem per se. The handle needs to be made as I said earlier. It is the shift unit itself and the linkages. With all of the SROD type transmissions, the shifter is centered on the trans. This old school stuff presents just a wee bit more of a problem. I'm now confident I can pull it off. Driveshaft is well within the recommended 3* of operating angle, and I can get a C4 Corvette driveshaft for about $125 bucks locally. I have a local shop that can shorten and balance it for me. I have enough room for the trans tunnel sheeting, and room for my feet at the pedals. The upshot of all this is that it made me look at some other issues with a fresh set of eyes, and I was able to conquer a few other things that had been giving me fits. I figured out a nice simple way to do a rocker setup on the rear coilovers, similar to Yohans. It will be both simple, and cheap. The fronts are most likely going to just be standard fare coilovers as the length and angle are favorable to that. With all of that now put to bed, I should be able to make some good progress over the summer.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

So I'm doing some yard cleanup yesterday, and what do I come across in a pile of stuff destined for the scrap yard (I had a 12" enclosed trailer loaded with material from when I moved my shop of 32 years in Middlesex, NJ, up to my house in Sussex) but a nice piece of 1-1/4" square bar stock. Cut two pieces 2" long, glued them together with the Mig gun, drilled two holes, and voila! Instant shifter spacer. Might have to take a 1/2" off of the width to make the handle perfectly centered, but we'll see. On Friday, I was perusing pictures on the interwebs of Caterham interiors. Ever see something and in an instant know "This is IT!"? Well, I saw this interior, and I must say, I'm smitten. I was all set for the high tech look, but this, this is just stunning. I showed the CFO, and she loves it too! I think this is a done deal, when we get that far. I also took some cardboard and bent and clamped it to the tunnel along the driver side of the trans, looks like 1/4" or so clearance on the shift rods, so I believe I am moving in the right direction. Monday need to pick up a bit more 3/4" structural to finish both ends of the tunnel and cross brace it. I'm also thinking of using one of the newer electric parking brakes on the market. It ain't cheap, but it does get the handle off of the console, allowing for a bit of storage and more importantly, Cup holders for my Coffee!

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Yupper!!! that is a really nice looking Caterham interior. But think hard about the light leather covered steering wheel. In a few years it will be stained just from regular use. A darker color or wood will still look good several years out.

I like that look a lot! Somehow, having wood on the dash of an English designed car just makes sense.

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Thom

I was thinking the same thing on the steering wheel. Fortunately, that is a ways down the road.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Question for those that have used the floor mounted pedals: Were the pedals basically "Vertical" in the normal state, or were they forward against the end of the travel toward the driver? Also wondering if anyone is running the exhaust under the car, and how did that work out. For reference, I have 6" to the bottom of the chassis.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

What did you use for the Dash? I'm looking at some really nice 3M Vinyl wrap at this point.

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

Now that the tunnel issue is laid to rest, I got the final bottom tubes in between the engine area and the seat area. Looks like I'll need to raise the engine / trans 3/4" to get them level with the rear. Still lets the Tuned Port setup stay under the hood, and the intake to go under the nose cone, so I'm a happy camper. Finalized the steering column location, will make up permanent forward mount over the weekend. '94 Firebird column, and didn't have to make any modifications. Gotta get lucky once in a while!

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

I found a specialty exotic wood shop where I could purchase a burl walnut veneer. I applied it to the steel dash with a contact cement. Then I applied several coats of minwax clear. sanding between coats,

What is the size of your dash? I only used half of the sheet. If you would be interested in it, I will measure what I have.

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Thom

Will, I would be interested. Dash is 7" high and a bit over 45" wide, call it 46".

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Dismantalus, Fabricatus, Assemblus.....
Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!

I will get it out of the box (from the move) and measure it. But I am pretty sure it is large enough to cover that size.

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Thom