LocostUSA.com

I always wondered why the body mounted front fenders weren't more popular.

I think part of the reason the full fenders aren't popular is that the ones you can get aren't wide enough for modern 7's or Locosts. They were developed for smaller, narrower cars.

They're more difficult to make on your own than making/adapting the cycle type fenders.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

All the bodywork is fiberglass from Equinox in the UK. I had to modify everything but the rear fenders to fit my chassis. My chassis is 2" wider than the standard Haynes car. That rear boot had some molding issues where the sides where less than 90 degrees to the rear too. I had to notch and re-glass the corners to correct the angle problem.

The fender mounts were a lot of work but I'm really happy with how they came out. Really light and you could practically sit on them if you wanted.

Even these cycle fenders were really thin. I had to widen them by 3/4" of an inch to fit over a 205 width tire.

I like clamshells too.

Nice job on those mounts! I like the headlights too. They cost a lot more than the others but are stamped DOT and seem to have a sharp cutoff for oncoming traffic.

+1 on rustoleum with hardener or 2k hardened clear.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

As I recall, they tend to lighten the front end at speed. I personally don't know. Just what I remember people saying.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Definitely seems like it would catch air & generate some lift.

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1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

The spindle mounted fenders take a real beating and add unsprung weight but it is a lot easier to make decent looking cycle fenders imho.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

The clam shell fenders came about because the SCCA stipulated a fender must be faired 75% to the body. If you wanted to race in the US you had to follow SCCA rules. The clam shells began showing up in 1960. Sevens started showing up at regional races in force. Around 1964 went to a regional in Coffeyville KS. Must have been at least a half dozen 7s entered there.

Other than ads in British magazines i had never seen a cycled fendered 7 until the 80s.

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Larry in Seattle

Getting close to paint and wanted to get some opinions on color. I'm personally between dark grey or white. My preference is the grey but I worry it's a little too close to the color of asphalt. I'll already be basically invisible and that might make me even less visible. This is a street car first and track is secondary.

I would have said grey, had you not mentioned visibility.
White is a PAIN to keep clean. second only to black.

In the end, a train horn and very bright lighting helps.

Love that shade of gray, but with the orange stripes from the white.

My original first choice was Mazda Ceramic Metallic, but am heavily leaning toward a 'louder' color.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

That is almost the exact same color I was originally thinking. My RX-8 that was totaled and became the basis for this project was a very similar color. Felt like a way to keep it alive in a way. I'm going to spray it myself and pearls are definitely beyond my skill level though.

I think visibility is a genuine safety issue.

Fortunately, I'm attracted to the loud colors anyway. We've had a couple of builds recently that are going to bright orange shades. I though they both looked good, and they're very, very visible. Bright blues, reds, yellows and greens work too, though.

Like Mae West said, "If you've got it, flaunt it."

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

I like the gray. The white seems to scream look at all the different parts. The gray is more coherent. The orange stripe is better with the gray than the red IMO. But why care about what others think? It is your car. That said, I did consult SWMBO on my color choices, as always. It just helps life.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The mention of orange got me to this-



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dZATPdbQHE