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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: July 27, 2021, 2:47 pm 
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Nice job on the rear subframe.

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 9:24 am 
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Location: Austin, TX
Houston we have floors and firewalls! 150+ rivets later all the floors and firewalls that are permanently attached are in. An air powered riveter was the best $80 I've spent in a while. I couldn't imagine doing this job with out it. All the panels were painted with a coat of u-pol epoxy primer and then a coat of raptor liner. Center floor panel is held in with 5mm screws into riv-nuts in the frame. You can also see I added some neoprene foam on the trans tunnel to keep those bolt on panels from vibrating. On the other riveted panels I put a bead of black RTV down. Got that idea off the forum here. My build has been helped tremendously by the wealth of information stored here.

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 10:34 am 
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The chassis is looking really good, and very strong.

What air riveter did you get?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 10:50 am 
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I got an Astro brand riveter off amazon- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MQ9H4W

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It makes an extremely satisfying ker-chunk when you set the rivet!


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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 11:35 am 
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Why didn't you put Raptor Liner on the underside of the floor panels?
Also, your rivet spacing looks pretty large, could just be the angle though, how far apart did you put them?

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 11:51 am 
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rivets are 3" apart. Was a complete guess on my part. I have three books on how to build these cars and none even mentions the rivet spacing.

The not great reason I have for not lining the bottom is just how much I liked the look of the raw aluminum. I also realized if I do want to coat it I'd need to do it after they were installed anyways. The raptor liner would have interfered with getting the rivets solidly against the panel was my thinking there.


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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 12:07 pm 
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Location: Spring, TX
Looks great!
Banking the foam on the frame bit for later on my build. Seems a good method to reduce rattling.

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 12:26 pm 
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Looks great! :cheers:

banzairx7 wrote:
...coat of raptor liner


I should have done this to mine.

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 2, 2021, 8:32 pm 
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Looks brilliant, well done. Will be a pity to get it dirty, but at least it will clean up really easy.


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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 3, 2021, 12:19 am 
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banzairx7 wrote:
rivets are 3" apart. Was a complete guess on my part. I have three books on how to build these cars and none even mentions the rivet spacing.

The not great reason I have for not lining the bottom is just how much I liked the look of the raw aluminum. I also realized if I do want to coat it I'd need to do it after they were installed anyways. The raptor liner would have interfered with getting the rivets solidly against the panel was my thinking there.


Your chassis does look fantastic, better than mine anyway!

As I'm no expert, from a sticky on this forum, "The rivet should be the correct grip length relative to the thickness of the jointing material(s) and the rivet should never be set closer to the edge of the material then two times the diameter of the rivet and the spacing should not be less then 3 times the diameter of the rivet. Rivet spacing on a locost will depend on the stress load anticipated and will typical be 1” to 2” center to center distant with higher stressed areas having a closer pattern to add to the structural capabilities."

Valid point, I did secure mine then put the liner on. Just wanted to protect it a bit more than paint offers and am really, really hoping nobody, besides myself and maybe the odd mechanic, ever sees it.

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 3, 2021, 8:46 am 
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IMHO, three inch spacing of 1/4” locking mandrel, non-structural/pop rivets to attach a locost floor skin is acceptable.

While the sheets contribute to the spaceframe, they are not considered primary structure. The worst the floor must deal with is the occupants standing in front of the seat when entering/exiting.

Pop rivets are not considered structural and rivet strength varies greatly.

Every rule that I have seen applies to structural rivets for primary structure use.

Maximum spacing can be greater than 12 rivet diameters and the rivet od does not need to be at least three times the thickest panel gauge.

If you find the panels are loose/rattling due to loosened rivets, you can repop with better rivets and/or larger od and/or same size but extra rivets around where the load is greatest. Bonding is another option but it would make future rework a lot more difficult.

A small step panel and heal board at the pedals can prevent floor skin stretching and rivet loosening/shearing issues in the future.

If building monocoque, follow the rules for primary structure.

Potential issue to look out for with a pneumatic/hydraulic rivet gun:
https://www.doityourself.com/forum/hard ... plode.html

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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 3, 2021, 9:03 am 
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I definitely do not consider these panels to be a critical part of the structure. They do add something but it's all bonus. It's kind of crazy how stiff the frame is. Before the finish tear down I could jack it up from anywhere on one side and it would lift the entire side of the car evenly. Was kind of amazing the first time since I've never seen a car do that before. You think you've seen a rigid car and then there are Locosts!

The floor pan is 3/16" rivets btw. It's not world ending go back in and add a rivet between the ones that are already there. Bit of a pain but seems like it's probably a good idea.

I started on the side panels. Just working over the rear wheel well area is a bit more work than I thought it would be. I'm about 30 minutes of hammering right now with a bit more to go.

This was after a few minutes. seems like it won't take long... at first
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Where I'm at now
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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 4, 2021, 1:00 pm 
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@banzairx7

Thanks for the rivet gun reference. I'm enjoying following your build. It's all looking good.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 4, 2021, 1:32 pm 
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I would not drill out what you have.

For hammering, use a plastic faced hammer or a length of 2x4 to prevent damaging the aluminum surface.
Anneal every so often by marking the area with black magic marker, then cook the marks off with a map torch.

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https://www.oann.com/india-govt-declares-most-populated-state-officially-covid-free-after-widespread-use-of-ivermectin/
https://www.oann.com/fauci-hhs-officials-discuss-using-new-virus-from-china-to-enforce-universal-vaccines-in-footage-from-oct-2019/
https://www.oann.com/the-story-of-ivermectin-sheds-light-on-the-history-benefits-of-the-drug/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33278625/
https://rumble.com/vokrf7-sen.-johnson- ... dates.html


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 Post subject: Re: RX-8 based build
PostPosted: August 4, 2021, 3:00 pm 
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Joined: February 23, 2017, 12:45 pm
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Annealing is a good tip my only worry is damaging the paint underneath. Any tips for not damaging the paint or just pull it off for the annealing? I have it clamped and also has a few clecos for alignment.

I also don't need to get it perfect, just sort of flat. I have a 1/2 round aluminum trim piece that will go over it.

https://www.orangealuminum.com/rounded- ... 9-12a.html

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