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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 10:04 am 
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Joined: June 15, 2010, 8:29 am
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Location: Duxbury, MA USA
Sure...I am mostly around. I will be in Seattle area for a week in September, but other than that...
Microsquirt should do the job BTW. Did your EFI stuff come with any sort of idle control?

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 10:05 am 
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So I saw on Moss Motors web site that their EFI conversion kit used a Microsquirt ECU. And they supply all of the directions for the conversion but they use Borla TB units converted to the stock MGB intake manifold. Not a bad looking system- but is rather wide, about the same dimensions as a stock SU system.

The good news is they have a detailed instruction pdf that I downloaded. They even give the location of the ECU program to download for the Microsquirt on the MGB platform!

I am sure I will need to tweek it a bit- straight TBs will flow a bit better than a single TB as I am contemplating.

Thom

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 10:47 am 
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I completed the driver's side suspension config. Still just tack welded. But I am happy with the outcome. Will order different length swedged tubes to fit with more adjustment available.

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My rear track is 59.5" (stock Fox Mustang rear end w/drums). The front finished out at 61", a little wider than I would have liked. But overall with the wider rear rims/tires the width is equal front and rear. And using VSUP as MV8 helped me with sometime back, the numbers came out acceptable.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 11:45 am 
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Joined: December 29, 2007, 10:41 pm
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Location: Vancouver, BC
Quote:
The good news is they have a detailed instruction pdf that I downloaded. They even give the location of the ECU program to download for the Microsquirt on the MGB platform!


Thanks for posting this, I may end up going to FI on my B GT project. I had no idea Moss had a detailed write up on it, the Edelbrock Fuel Sump looks like a neat product to help plumb in the system.


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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 4:06 pm 
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Here is the link to the install instructions:

https://mossmotors.com/media/instructio ... st_web.pdf

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PostPosted: October 19, 2021, 3:50 am 
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Looking a a set of used "vintage" headlights to put on the car. Supposed to see them tomorrow.

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Thinking I would mount them with the turn signals under the headlight.

Anyone seen this style before?

Thom

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PostPosted: October 19, 2021, 3:48 pm 
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Joined: November 6, 2020, 6:29 pm
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Location: Spring, TX
Those look pretty neat & nice to only have to deal with 1 mount.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2021, 4:28 pm 
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Joined: December 24, 2007, 5:11 am
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Location: Seattle area
Those look pretty decent. Mounting with the signal light below will require some thinking but you're up to it.

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PostPosted: October 19, 2021, 7:51 pm 
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So I purchased the headlights today. They use a regular 7" sealed beam headlight. The front bezel is chrome and the shell is painted black. I will need to clean up the chrome and repaint the shells. The stem for the signals is also black.

I am thinking I will mount them forward of the coil over spring mount at a frame point that already exists. I have threaded suspension bungs that I can us to insert into the round tube end. And the turn signal will be able to hang below.

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I have to space the clamshell fenders out about 3" at the front to cover the wider front track and tires. Since the headlights and I are in Wisconsin rt now and the car is in Boston, I had to "draw" the lights for now until I get them back to the Locost the 1st of November.

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This is the old front suspension design. But the fender is spaced out as it will need to be. I am thinking of bending some alum in a "U" form and use round tube mounted under the U shaped filler to support/mount the fender. I will also add a bent tube under the fender to keep the fender from bending up under speed.

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This is the new suspension design. I still need to add a brace from the forward tube to the lower mount for the bolt attach point and trim off the excess steel bracket. This config actually narrowed the track 1.5" per side and moved the LCA mount points up 1.5"and in that 1.5". It is Mustang II tubular LCA w/o using a strut rod. It uses a 5/8" thru bolt 13" long. It is supported with a round tube in the middle of the bolt with a flange welded to the frame for support (it is behind the bellow for the tie rod).

The bung slips into the end of the tube. I will drill and tap a screw thru the tube to secure the bung. The wiring will pass thru the bung and tube into the area under the nose to the wiring harness.

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You can see the open tube here where the bung inserts. It will still place the headlight behind the end of the nose. But it will be further forward than the front suspension and allow the headlight to be mounted a little lower. It is an optical illusion that it looks like the tie rod end is tilted down. It is actually level with the lower control arm. But it sweeps slightly forward.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2021, 9:26 am 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
WRT the headlights, two things to be wary of: 1 make sure you will not interfere with the tire during tight turns combined with suspension compression, and 2) If your state inspection process required headlight height position, you most likely will not meet their requirements. 24 inches from the ground to the center IIRC.

Beyond that, I like them.

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PostPosted: October 20, 2021, 9:52 am 
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Good point! I should be right at that height. The threaded tube end bung is just a bit higher than the top of the tire which is 25" in dia. I am concerned that the front mounted headlight will interfere with the turning of the tire. Will know better once I get back to my car.

If that location will not work I can always mount them in the "normal" location using a cross tube and mounted a bit higher

Thom

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PostPosted: October 21, 2021, 9:05 am 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Thom said "If that location will not work I can always mount them in the "normal" location using a cross tube and mounted a bit higher."
I actually used the same attachment method you have fabricate for my lites, but used an "L" bracket which raised the head lite to pass inspection. If you use a raiser you will need a locking tab on the bottom or side of the bracket to prevent rotation. It also make head lite alignment a lot quicker if you have to remove the lites, w/o having to go thru the process of re-aligning them.
Davew


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PostPosted: November 7, 2021, 10:21 pm 
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I redid the front suspension and moved the LCAs in almost 3 inches. The geometry is working on the Vsusp. And the byproduct is "the fenders fit"!. I have 5 1/2" of ground clearance and the front track is now just slightly narrower that the rear track (1.25").

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I will need to notch the inner flange side to lower the front end of the fender. But the tire now tucks under the fender.

I will trim the shape of the outer fender edge to more resemble the original clamshell fender line

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Thom

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PostPosted: November 8, 2021, 10:58 am 
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Joined: February 23, 2017, 12:45 pm
Posts: 130
Location: Austin, TX
Going back a few months here- Someone had suggested microsquirt. I'd go with a speeduino. It's a lot more capable and is ~$150 less when you include labelled wiring. Only possible downside is they don't have the nice waterproof connections and case like the microsquirt.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/303707943954

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/meg ... ndle-long/


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PostPosted: November 10, 2021, 12:08 pm 
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So now that I have my final suspension settings I went to the GAZ cacl sheet to pick my shocks. It comes up with this:

Attachment:
GAZ Shocks.jpg
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I need a 13" ride height. My shock angle is 25 degrees. The spring rates seem very high!

Help!

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