LocostUSA.com

I'd fit the starter with studs and flange nuts, then notch the front and top of the adapter for some extra clearance. You might also try backing off each bolt evenly walking the start forward and reverse to install. Tedious but it might work for you.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for the tip, I've found some of his other videos about turbo 1uz's through the course of my "research". Seems like he's having fun!

Adding studs is an excellent idea, ill pull the motor this time and fix that problem permanently. (This isn't my first time having to do this over the years, running this drivetrain in other cars)

Jamador: I'd aspire to do things as nicely as Binky! This hoods 60+ pounds when it's done so struts are probably necessary.

While ignoring the whole " get this car running" situation I've been busy figuring out how the door hinges will work.


Spent quite a bit of time finding out where the hinges need to be in relation to the panel gaps. It was a process of trial and error but eventually with it sitting in the right place this box was made, it will be reinforced to handle both the weight of the door and distribute load from the yet to be built door bar.


Hinge is from an 06-ish Honda Crv front door.



Door handles, latch, and striker will be from an NA Miata to keep things simple. (magine the fun of making a miata door handle accuate a 50s gm style latch) The door is just a skin temporarily attached to the hinge, however once the latch arrives the door bar and any smaller Reinforcements will be built.

The further apart the pivots can be, the less the latch end will move up and down on the pivot bush to pin clearance.

The lotus europa has an interest pivot tube with a large thrust bush underneath to support the door.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I was hoping to get away with a single hinge per side given how small everything is but your probably right, there's no slop that I can feel but it's to early to tell as the bulkheads still loose(not welded). Those Europa hinges are neat, reminds of the Lexus SC's overengineered monstrosity, it pivots the front of the door out and forward as it opens.

You learn alot through the process of building these, as time wears on I keep finding details that weren't executed well enough.

The wireframe buck around the right front wheelwell was way out of wack, though it only became apparent after fitting the hood structure with better points to measure from. Ended up being about 1" wider and sitting a tad forward compared to the other side, it's been demoralizing to hack that fender part but it'll be sorted soon.



The sill panels fit and finish just wasn't quite good enough so these panels have been made, they will plug weld over the existing panels. Besides looking a little better they act as reinforcement to the rearmost section that was previously unsupported.(where your body weight lies as you origami out of the cabin)




Forward and final section of sill has been built, perhaps I'm overthinking things but the idea here is to spread the force of a side impact along as much of the frame as possible. The weight of the car is climbing with all the ancillary metal needed for sealing surfaces, hinges, door latchs etc. I'm considering the sill and all additional frame specific sheet metal as a unibody structure to augment the spaceframe. It would be interesting to see FEA or an informed opinion on how rigid this chassis will actually be, there's no doubt overbuilt and underbuilt aspects, but no way to tell.


Misc.
Seat mounts are finally built which means seatbelt angles can be figured, cleaned up the engine wiring to the point that it's not spaghetti everywhere, Steering column mounts were redesigned for the third time and final time as they've been integrated into the cages dash bar.


Progress feels slow lately with all the backtracking however the show must go on!

Firewall is taking shape.

This is a fascinating build, thanks for sharing it. I'll be honest when I first saw the beetle body I was a bit confused, but you're doing some amazing stuff!

I recall reading early Ferrari bodies were often not symmetrical, and why worry, you can only see one side at a time . I can't wait to see how the results.

And the wheelbase on my Renault 5 was different left and right (because of rear trailing arms with transverse torsion bars).

_________________
Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

To quote JD: "Symmetry is overrated."

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Thanks for the support everyone!

Picked up a Mig welder which meant building a welding cart, an old BBQ sacrificed its sheeting for the upper and lower deck trays.
Wheelwells are welded in place, this 3" angled 18ga sheet extending off the frame will be replicated along the trunk sides of the spaceframe. (Same shape will extend to the rearmost sections of the car and extend up to the body, this will close off the trunk from the wheelwell, reinforce rear end impacts along with better tie ins to the rollbar)
Fixing the roof to the chassis with this A pillar panel, its tacked in place until I'm certain it's properly located.
Forward, side cover, and firewall welded in place.
Now that the Door hinge bulkhead is welded the doors inner structure can be built. (Fixing the roof and getting the wheelwells in place means panel gaps, door handles, and striker can be fitted once the doors inner structure is built)

How are you planning to blend the beetle roof behind the b pillar into the C pillar? The early sketches showed a smooth transition however currently there appears to be an offset of a couple of inches, any rear brake cooling scoops required in that area that could add functionality whilst blending smoothly?

Planning to copy the beetle drip rail and curvature down to the trunk lip. Been having a hard time figuring out how to design that as a clamshell. (What does the inner structure look like with the trunk open, what's a suitable glass for the rear window to build around, perhaps just plexiglass to keep the project moving?)

The s197 mustang brakes are actually quite large already, thought there are quite a few improvements to be made on the Aero front, which would be fun to do as a seperate project. (Diffuser, better coverage of tires to incoming air, keep more turbulence out of the flatbottom)

Got started making an inner structure for the door skin now that the firewalls solid-ish and the wheelwells closed off. A second hinge was added because (duh) one wasn't going to cut it.


The doors holding its own weight and Floating in place, panel gaps are better then expected all things considered. Planning to get the passenger door in a similar state soon, it feels good to have part of the body truly in place.