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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 29, 2022, 10:48 am 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Perry, MV8 and Eric:
Thank you.

MV8:
The nosecone is from Jack at Kinetic. The clamshells are from my old Caterham. The wings will most likely be a hybrid aluminum with fiberglass edge as was done on my Locost #1.

BostonWill:
Yes, all the better to corner with. They are the same ones that were used on the Caterham and the RX7.
The cooling system is the same approach as was used on the Caterham with the 13BT. It worked fine on that car as long as the ambient temp was less than 95F and the lap time was less than 50 seconds. I was able to overcome those conditions by increasing the size of the radiator and going to a 55 GPM electric water pump. However, my current old fart solution is to just park it on July-August afternoons. On road course use, it was fine for 20 minute sessions with the maximum ambient temperature tried of 80F.

Happy New Year all,
Ron


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PostPosted: December 29, 2022, 7:34 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Looks great as usual.
Where do you get your glass (clamshells, nose, wings)?


While you are at it, talk to Jack about clamshells. IIRC he has rights to produce several versions previously made by Curtis. I don't see them on his website.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: January 6, 2023, 5:30 pm 
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Joined: January 1, 2012, 12:44 pm
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Location: Boise, Idaho
The diff and the rear suspension were put in. Then continued with the sheetmetal on the rear. The portion that protrudes from the frame will be where the rear fender Dzus buttons will attach. The first of the side louvers were rough fit. It was fortunate that Honda S2000 hood louvers have the same shape as these sidepods. :D


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Last edited by seven13bt on August 12, 2023, 1:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: January 6, 2023, 8:15 pm 
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Location: New Zealand
good measurement and planning always beats luck, looks great!


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PostPosted: January 12, 2023, 6:36 pm 
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Thanks KinRe.

Other than the clecos that need to be replaced by 10-32s, the boot and deck lid are done.


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PostPosted: January 14, 2023, 10:46 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
I sure like the ideas of panels that dismount. What did you use to create the "turn" in the rear most panel? It doesn't look like you wheeled it.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: January 15, 2023, 12:49 am 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
Lonnie, you're right, I didn't use a wheel, just a section of schedule 40 ABS pipe with an OD of 4.5 inches and some 2x4s to apply even pressure.

Cheers,
Ron


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PostPosted: February 4, 2023, 10:44 pm 
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Location: Boise, Idaho
The car is off of the build table. :D
Most of the tunnel panels are fabricated. After a 5th-reverse lockout mechanism is made, the last piece of the tunnel will be made. I've decided to relocate the fuel tank to behind the diff.


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PostPosted: February 16, 2023, 12:43 am 
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Relocated the tank to the back of the car and added a surge tank.
The rear fenders are being cobbled together from my 0.050" stock and pieces of aluminum trailer fenders. The trailer fenders didn't have enough arc to do the whole outside edge, so I used some of the trailer fender inner edge for a portion that is best flat anyway (where the rear spoiler endplate attaches).


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PostPosted: February 16, 2023, 6:18 am 
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Location: Wilson, NY
Your car is looking great! Awesome work.

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/


Last edited by ohmite on February 16, 2023, 7:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 16, 2023, 10:57 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
So, the rounded piece you used for the edge of the fender in the last photo, is that a ready-made piece from something or did you do it yourself?

It looks like an interesting technique. It appears to be pop riveted on from what I can see. I suppose welding it on, and planishing the weld, with filing/sanding thereafter would be an option if you wanted a fancier piece to polish or paint.

It all looks good anyway.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 20, 2023, 11:32 pm 
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Hi Lonnie, Sorry for the delayed response.
The fender is this one, a 28 inch OD aluminum one being the key for my use.

https://www.trailer-fenders.com/single- ... er-fender/

The sections that I cut it into are riveted to the main piece using 3/32 countersunk solid aluminum rivets.
:cheers:


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PostPosted: February 21, 2023, 12:28 pm 
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Thanks!

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 27, 2023, 10:14 pm 
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Thanks ohmite.

The 5th-reverse lockout mechanism was completed. Then the last portion of the transmission tunnel and the "passenger" compartment cover panel were fabricated.


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PostPosted: March 15, 2023, 5:31 pm 
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It's ready for testing. Eventually, front aero will be added.


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