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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 5, 2010, 5:20 pm 
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Beware those "chain reaction" repair jobs!

There's a story about a guy that was gonna replace a light bulb on his fishin' boat. Noticed that the wires to the light were corroded. Replaced the wiring, noticed the switch was worn so he replaced that...

The story goes on for several more paragraphs.

In the end, he was divorced, homeless and bankrupt, but the had one helluva nice boat!

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PostPosted: April 5, 2010, 11:32 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Beware those "chain reaction" repair jobs!
There's a story about a guy that was gonna replace a light bulb on his fishin' boat. Noticed that the wires to the light were corroded. Replaced the wiring, noticed the switch was worn so he replaced that...
The story goes on for several more paragraphs.
In the end, he was divorced, homeless and bankrupt, but the had one helluva nice boat!


a nice boat and no wife or bills. you can live on the boat. and with no grass to mow, leaks to fix, wife nagging about anything, etc,etc, you could fish all day without any disruption. sounds like he made out on the deal :cheers:

:idea: i need to buy a boat i think...

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PostPosted: April 12, 2010, 12:33 am 
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Hey guys Ive been working on final welding all the joints and my frame is warping. I must not be changing sides as often as I should. Anyways its already warped is there a way I can bring it back to straightness?

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PostPosted: April 13, 2010, 1:39 am 
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Can you clamp it down flat and add some diagonals? It should be pretty flexible in its current state.

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PostPosted: April 13, 2010, 2:06 am 
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Don't do your finish welding until you have it all tacked together. Glad your making progress, noticed you were gone for awhile. Anyway looks straight from here :)

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PostPosted: April 13, 2010, 2:25 am 
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Andrew I like that idea. May do that.

Horizen; how much more is there to tack? You mean wait till roller status and trans tunnel and everything?

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PostPosted: April 13, 2010, 3:12 am 
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I think you are missing a lot of triangulation on the sides... with some diagonals the frame would wrap much less.. and you'll have a stiffer frame overall..

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PostPosted: April 13, 2010, 7:20 am 
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Glad to see you didn't ditch your 7 build.

Put it on your table, clamp it down, straighten the frame, add most of the diagonals, tack all the tubes on all four corners if possible. Weld carefully, weld opposing sides of the tubes and frame. Be careful not to weld too much at once, one or two welds at a time. Let every thing cool between welds. Your table needs to be strong enough to hold the frame and prevent it from warping. Adding the diagonals will help a lot.

Rod

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PostPosted: April 14, 2010, 12:10 am 
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Lot's of good advice already given. I'd definitely add the round side diagonal tubes and probably the transmission tunnel before doing any more hard core welding. In answer to question about waiting till you have a roller before final welding the answers "no". I did and I was lucky that my frame didn't warp because it would have thrown the suspension points out of alignment. The plus of these types of cars is that the suspension is very adjustable so if the frame does warp a little bit the suspension can be adjusted to correct it.

Ron

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PostPosted: June 19, 2011, 10:45 pm 
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Got bored and started working on this again. I never completely abandon it just get sidetracked for many months.

Sold the 22re and trans. Would like to find a 4age. Also trying to find a viable axle right now.

Added some diagonals, and lowered the tubes that are under your arms on the outside of the car because I think it looks better. Cut out the rear shoulder area to put a 4x2 across. I guess its one of the aussie mods. Actually found a piece of scrap at work and after spending a few hours fixing it I decided to scrap it because it was so freaking heavy. No need for all that back there I just liked it because it was free. Now have a much lighter piece that I paid for.

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Old and new.
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I love this level.
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PostPosted: October 30, 2011, 11:39 pm 
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So guys, I sold the MR2. And bought this beauty. I think this will be easier than the Toyota approach even though I've never owned anything but yotas.

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Well its a '94 1.8 with 108k miles and leaks a bit seems to run alright once its warm. While cold, it bogs when you put your foot in it.

And its had some interesting mechanic work...
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Its salvage, there is not a straight panel on it, and the alignment is so bad that the front tires were fraying steel by the time I got home but I think it will work out good.

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PostPosted: October 31, 2011, 9:52 am 
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The engine actually looks very clean for a 108K beater.

I think you missed a big opportunity though by not using that cool radial engine in the background of an earlier photo. How about a Locost using this car for inspiration?

Cheers, :lol:
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Propeller-Car.jpg


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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: October 31, 2011, 3:27 pm 
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That's some nice work!!! Would have been better with duct tape for certain. Congrats on the donor. Another Miata born again.

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PostPosted: October 31, 2011, 7:42 pm 
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Is that a Soviet Yak 18, a Chinese Nanchang CJ6, or something else?

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PostPosted: November 1, 2011, 1:23 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
The engine actually looks very clean for a 108K beater.

I think you missed a big opportunity though by not using that cool radial engine in the background of an earlier photo. How about a Locost using this car for inspiration?

Cheers, :lol:
Attachment:
Propeller-Car.jpg


That radial belongs in a car just about as much as the Miata 1.8 belongs in the sky.

:)

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