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PostPosted: October 24, 2020, 3:31 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
Thanks it's been a long time and a lot of projects to get out of the way and there are still more but at least I have some time to work on the car
I got the Megasquirt to see the tach signals and it is putting out an ignition signal. I may yet get this thing running.

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PostPosted: October 24, 2020, 4:30 pm 
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Hello MYTF, just read through the 21 pages, some cool stuff :D

Just wondering, im assuming you offset the tunnel to allow for the offset pinion on the diff. Does that mean you also have the motor mounted off to one side?


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PostPosted: October 24, 2020, 10:05 pm 
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It's been awhile so I don't remember if the diff was offset. I offset the tunnel and engine to counter the weight off the driver and give me a bit more room.

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PostPosted: October 24, 2020, 11:34 pm 
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Sorry Bent Wrench I skipped over your post. I am going to post in MSExtra forum tonight but let me try to fill you in on my system. I need all the help I can get though I did get the tach signals working. I had to adjust R56 potentiometer up to 2.5V

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When I do a MS install I use the MS Extra manual exclusively, mixing manuals can produce poor or unexpected results.
Also the Extra manual is very up_to_date.

I built the board 6 years ago using the build manual at the time (it was not very good) with the instructions from DIY Autotune's article on the Ford Probe/Mazda MX-6 with Mazda KL engine.

Quote:
I don't think Mazda and Ford used the same electronics on that motor. So that may be throwing you off track.

These two do as Mazda built both.

Quote:
Do you have separate crank and cam sensors or are they both in a cam driven CAS unit?
and
Are the sensors powered or passive?
(Optical, Hall, or VR?)


I have a VR crank sensor and Hall cam sensor.

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Are you trying to use a "base tune" or are you making setting changes to the default tune?


Here are the changes I have made.
Set the following under Tach Input / Ignition Settings.
• Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
• Trigger Angle / Offset: 0
• Ignition Input Capture: Rising Edge
• Spark Output: Going Low / Normal for MS2, Going High / Inverted for MS3 It is critical to get the Spark Output Inverted setting correct, as setting this wrong can result in damage to the ignition module or coil.
• Number of coils: Single Coil
• Spark A output pin: D14 (MS2) or MS3X outputs (MS3)
Use these trigger wheel settings.
• Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual Wheel
• Trigger wheel teeth: 6
• Missing teeth: 0
• Tooth #1 Angle: 60
• Wheel speed: Crank Wheel
• Second trigger active on: Rising Edge
• and every rotation of: Cam

I tried but not go on the MSQ file here.

Now the current problem is that I have no spark.
Tunerstudio tach is working and it is synced.
I put a scope on the Crank pulse and the ignition pulse that turns on the igniter and the ignition pulse is only 2.32V that seems low to me?

I have been looking on the forum and will post there. The Name is the same MYTF

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PostPosted: October 25, 2020, 12:13 am 
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Location: Cornelius OR
Did you do the mod to bring the spark output off D14?

Single coil, wasted spark, or COP?

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PostPosted: October 25, 2020, 3:54 pm 
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Yes I did the mod to make the ignition on D14. But D14 seems to have a small amount of power all the time even when the tach is showing 0 RPM?

Single coil in the Distributor

I posted to my old message at "Ignition out for mazda KL?" with more information and the msq file.

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PostPosted: October 25, 2020, 11:27 pm 
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Do you have a smart coil or an power stage/igniter at the coil?

I'm not sure about the voltage, Strange that it is fixed, and not switched.
Makes me think there is an error in the ignition output mod.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2020, 11:13 am 
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Location: Reno, Nv
This is another area where my knowledge weak. I believe the Ignitor is in the distributor with the coil.
Attachment:
KL Distributor parts.PNG

Attachment:
KL Distributor Diagram.PNG

I used "5.3.1.4 Logic spark outputs - resistor method" although following older directions I installed a 220 ohm resistor and I left the LED in.
I guess I could update the mod by removing the LED and changing the resistor to a 4.7K
Attachment:
Ignition mod.PNG


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PostPosted: October 26, 2020, 6:11 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
I posted my problem with more files (msq and log) on MS extra forum at https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=132&t=54525&p=563969#p563969
If any one wants to chime in. Matt Cramer at DIY Autotune is helping as he is the man that setup the mods for the Kl motor.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2020, 7:54 pm 
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I haven't been following this problem and I am no expert. Trying to diagnose wiring errors over the Internet is extremely difficult. However, I have a lot of general electronics background and have built up 1 MS2 system some 10 years ago. Based on your disty diagram, I think you should have both the CAM and Crank inputs in the software and wiring set up as Hall or Optical, not VR. Both signals come from the distributor as digital signals no analog (VR).

Further, your MS instruction photo shows a setup for 4 separate spark outputs as if they would be signaling 4 separate coils. However the dist diagram clearly shows a distributor, not 4 coils. Something doesn't make sense.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2020, 9:12 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
Thanks for the feedback rx7locost. The distributor does have two hall pickups but I am only using the single (G signal) and there is a factory VR sensor on the crank that I am using as it is more accurate.

As for the spark out puts I am using that method but only for one output (spark A)

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PostPosted: November 29, 2021, 11:23 pm 
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Location: Reno, Nv
Well after more then a year off with projects and a new knee I finally got restarted on my ignition problem with a fresh start. After all the testing and checking last year and getting frustrated I had to take a break. A few days ago a realized I hadn't tested the igniter circuit and I found it was BAD with a another installed I have SPARK!
With some time now recuperating with the new knee I hope to get the car on the road.

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PostPosted: November 30, 2021, 12:02 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Good to see you back, John.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: December 2, 2021, 12:38 am 
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Location: Reno, Nv
My starter switch mount was rather weak and broke in the move so I spent the day reinforcing it. Also cleaning and repainting the seat mounts as they got rusty in storage.
The wife really wanted the front and back (side) yard finished this year.
Please keep in mind that we didn't cleanup before I snapped these pictures.
Got a free pool. Behind the fence inline with the pool is the green house I built.
Attachment:
Back Yard pool.jpg

The two poles are used for a sun shade that mounts to the building. The flowers are gone.
Attachment:
Back Yard lawn.jpg

The three large windows have to be kept covered in the winter on sunny days or the apartment over heats. With the overhang in the summer the sun doesn't come in.
Attachment:
Livingroom.jpg

I put a loft above the kitchen but I haven't built the ladder for it yet (next year)
Attachment:
Kitchen.jpg

I tiled the shower with no step over curb. The floor slopes from a foot outside the shower to the back wall. And all doors are three foot wide for future wheelchair access.
Attachment:
Bathroom sink.jpg

Attachment:
Bathroom shower.jpg


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PostPosted: December 4, 2021, 7:42 am 
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Impressive details John. I'm a fan of the "miracle truss" construction. I almost bought one except for the idiot salesman trying to mark up the price. By the time he came around, I'd bought something else. One nice aspect was you could lay uncut batts of insulation without pinching between the siding and the truss. Great, efficient design.

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