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After knee surgery, a month of rehab, a couple of weeks' vacation and various life interruptions, I am back to sorting out the wiring of the PCM. I have come to grips that it isn't going to be perfect, but just perfect enough to satisfy me. In a few days, I will be able to show something worthwhile. Right now, it is still looks like a rat's nest to anyone other than the self-trained electrician.

Does anyone have a PDF of various heater hoses with dimensions? I seem to have run into an issue with the heater line and the A/c compressor. I need an "S" shaped bend in a small space. It also needs to change from 3.4"(?) to 5/8" I thought I had one, maybe Dorman(?) but cannot seem to find it.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Try the Gates Catalog found here: https://www.gates.com/us/en/search.p.4261-000000-000001.html
The hose sizes you are looking for start at line 587 (Page 193)

Always sorry to hear so many of you guys having health problems. Don't know what to say to that. Dreading when it's my turn.

Your trans is very similar internally to the 88-up 700r4/ 4l60 so much of what I do to mine may prove useful to you in the future. I was surprised to find broken accum springs since it was shifting ok but it seems to be a very common problem.

I guess you are talking about the water pump heater fitting? I don't remember if you have a screw in fitting or it is integral to the pump. A screw in could use an elbow to route out and around. Copper is ok if it is isolated with cushion clamps or just the hose beyond the end of the pipe is clamped down. Regular steel is fine too with anti freeze. Many oems have used steel heater plumbing. Much easier long term to make the elbows and use standard hose between them.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Waltj, thanks that helps a lot. I downloaded the catalog.

MV8 yeah there are 2 heater fittings. The one is a basic NPT fitting so I can deal with that, The other is on the water pump and is cast. This one is the one that has to do a jog of some sort to clear the forward A/C bracket plate. If necessary I suppose I could cut the AC bracket apart and reconfigure it by adding spacer length or shortening it. I will decide if I cannot find the right offset hose.

I thought I would have something to show by now. One of my goals was to get the engine harness done. The process is to shortne the wiring to the Intake air temp sensor, the throttle plate sensor and the Idle valve. My guess for the proper female crimp connector was wrong. There are so many Metri-pack 150 options, on my order I guessed wrong. I looked more closely and think I have it right now. It will be later this week before I find out if I ------


I promise I'll have something sometime.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I ran across a 1995 Dilemma. The FSM for the 95 Camaro 3.4L shows a pair of wires connected to the PCM. They are identified as being 2nd gear start switch and light. In fact, these wires do exist in the harness I got with the engine/PCM. From what I read, this function prevents the car from starting in1st gear, but shifts normally otherwise. It is for wet and icy conditions. However the owner's Manual does not mention this capability.

Can anyone till me it this is real for this year and engine or a misprint? 2nd (no pun intended), does it make sense to add the switch and light in my build? is it really a useable feature? I could just leave it out if it doesn't really make sense.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Not required. Can be added later.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

MV8, I figured that you would have some input. I have those schematics in the Camaro/Firebird FSM. (Factory Service Manual). That is where I learned about it while sorting out the PCM wiring. I was wondering if it was really true since I didn't see it in the Camaro Owner's Manual. And if it was, was there any value in adding the switch. This is the time to add it if I'm going to.

edit: I just found reference to this in the '95 Firebird Owner's manual. It was mentioned about being an option (?)



I read somewhere that in later years, this function was in all Camaros without a switch. It was programmed in. 1st gear was skipped in favor of better fuel economy unless the loud pedal was pressed hard. I'm not sure of this. I have decided that I don't need this SGS (second gear start) function. I'll just leave out the switch which is the default condition.

Boy that was a few hours spent down that rabbit hole!

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

(deleted double post)

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

No need to cut the wires at the pcm pin. I'd leave a foot or so, cap the ends and tape it into the harness with the rest of the bundle.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Gotcha. Too much trouble to open up the connector and remove pins. Other wires (related to EGR EVAP and A/C etc) I cut to about 2" and will be insulating the ends with heat shrink crimped with a pair of pliers while still hot. These wires "could" be used in the future so I will leave them with some length, identified as to the plug and terminal#.

I just got thru checking the CS130 necessary wiring. I was determining if the "S" wire was internally connected to the main output terminal. I found a Delco Remy document saying they are. Likely thru a small sub-10 ohm resistor that would allow the use of an external regulating point if desired. The alternator will regulate to the output terminal without an external wire. Not ideal, but it was how the it was wired in the Camaro. If it was good enough for GM, it is good enough for me. This will allow me to use the connector that I have from the original Camaro installation that has only the "S" wire populated.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Well this has been a long journey. The wiring for the PCM has been sorted out to the level that I understand it and know where each goes. Most of the engine side of the harness is done, including the section down to the auto transmission. A few false starts along the way. Aren't there always? I will leave the final wiring to be done at a later time. I need some time away from this part of the job. Here are a few pics of the job....

This is just the wiring from the PCM. The wiring to the rear (taillights, fuel pump etc)will be made from the OEM harness. The wiring to the front (headlights, fan horn etc and all the breakers and power fuses) will be of my own design. I have designed the dash to be unpluggable. I didn't think far enough ahead to be able to disconnect the PCM wiring and others form the internal wiring. That will be later. I have to come up with a console design before I can think about that.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I like the coil pack relocation off the motor. Might use a hooded elbow at the bundle firewall pass thru so water under the hood can't run down the wiring into the car or have it slope up into the car. A boot and fully taped harness will help but it's kind of a pain later if you want to make changes.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thanks for the feedback MV8. One of the reasons the coilpack is relocated is the OEM bracket that held the power steering pump and the coilpack is gone. I had planned on mounting the coilpack a bit more to the driver's side. Then I saw how nice it looked centered on the engine. Only had to move it about 4 or 5 inches to get it centered. Actually, cleaning up the engine as best I could was a priority. Getting the engine harness shortened and "freshened" was a major part of the goal. It will be gettting a bit messy when the A/C and heater hoses are added. Those are necessities.

You cannot see it in the pic, the "drip loop" is there. It rises about 3-4 inches before it passes thru the bulkhead. Once some other wires are added, I will either wrap or continue using a polyethylene split braid like used on the rest of the engine harness. 125 deg C rated with a 230 deg C melt rating. I just need to keep it away from the exhaust headers and pipes. I am trying to make the PCM/Engine harness separable from other wiring for service/repair reasons. I like the braided split loom stuff. It is easy to open up to add a wire or two if necessary. I previously used it on my Cushman build and liked it.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

One of the goals I set for myself was to have a fusebox inside the passenger compartment. for all of the systems that are powered during run or accessory position of the ign switch. I have fought and fought to find a convenient location. All to no avail. Yesterday, after viewing another MG V6 build, I saw my solution. Move it to the engine compartment. I was so focused on inside, I couldn't see the obvious answer. This will work out much better. It fits into an area that has no other function. Here is wiring central:



In a similar twist, the Vintage Air heat/cool module has an electrically actuated heater valve. Again, I was focused on finding a place for it in the engine compartment, with no good answer. I have decided to place it in the passenger's footwell. From the way the system operates, it is the logical solution. I hope it is reliable and does not leak.

I managed to mate the OEM Camaro brake/Cruise/torque converter release switch to the MG brake pedal box. It wasn't designed for those function but will in my implementation. It took drilling out the old threads for the MG brake switch and tapping it to 1/2-20. Getting the tap started was difficult, but I finally persuaded it and all is well now.

It may not seem like a lot of progress to most of you. It sure is a milestone for me. I can now finish up a few loose ends and get back to some cutting, welding and grinding.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

If you recall, earlier this year I came across a deal for the Snap-on scanner that reads the OBD1.5 GM PCM. Well, my buddy called me one day and asked if I had found a scanner yet. He was garage saleing and ran across an old scanner he thought would work. one of the cartridges said GM from 88-96. He said it was a Mastertech ET2100MT. I said I don't need it, but what were they asking for it. While I was on the phone, he asked and the guy. He had to ask the old man. I quickly checked online to see what it was. worse case is I'd sell it on eBay. They currently go for between $200 and $700. The guy came back and said $40. I told my buddy I have no idea if it works, or if it has the cables and adapters that I need to talk to my PCM. I said to offer him $30. He checked again with the old man and accepted my offer. I now own 2 OBD1.5 scanners. I have cleaned the new-to-me scanner up, inventoried the pieces-parts and tested the unit. It powers up and seems to work. It even knows my year and engine. I think it will work. I repaired the battery pack and I'm in the middle of seeing if the batteries will take a charge. I also needed to change out the memory saving CR2032 battery too.

So I was scanning (pun unintended) the internet today like many other times and finally found what I was originally looking for. A program that uses a PC and talks to my PCM called Scan9495-V6. It is a scanner app specifically for the 94-95 Camaro L32 3.4L engine with 4;60E transmission. It uses an OBD2 cable which I already have. Says it works on WINXP, and WIN7. I loaded it up and it opens under WIN10. If it does eventually function, I won't be needing the Snap-on and Mastertech Professional scanners.

In the meantime, I am cleaning up the rear wiring harness from the MG. I plan on using it. I stripped the braded wrap off where it wasn't already missing and cleaned up all the individual wires. I found sometime in the past it had a short. I think it was in the fuel pump. It melted a few of the black wires to ground. Some heat damage occurred to a few other wires that can be easily and safely repaired.

I ordered some 20AWG TXL wiring for extending the Cruise control harness and wiring up the dash. I had to remake the bracket holding the coil packs to the firewall to allow for the wiring to pass below it to the other side of the engine. This is why I'm laying out the wiring routes now instead of after all the bodywork and paint. Soon, I mean real soon, I will remove the engine and trans to finish up the body damage, I mean body mods.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766