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PostPosted: February 8, 2021, 10:53 pm 
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Thanks Perry. That means a lot coming from you. The backlight color was one thing that I was watching out for, among a host of other parameters. The small gauges all come from the same mfgr and can be wired for either Red or Yellow backlight. I'm not sure exactly who manufactures/markets the speedo/tach. They also have a hard wires red or yellow selection. I would have preferred white. If I am not happy, I may have to open the gauges to put in my own LED lighting. But that would be a very low priority.

I find a lot of Chinese companies tries to match the other guy. And they know every other mfgr in the same business. If it is not one guy who left their employer and started his own company, it is a company starts up another company to run at the same time for different marketing targets. OEM mfgr, vs own selling under their own name vs selling to resellers. At least in my focused product lines, China businesses are very intertwined.

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PostPosted: February 12, 2021, 1:25 pm 
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It is too cold out in the garage from me to work. So I thought I'd start hacking away on the the wiring needs. Trying to merge a 52 year old British car with semi-modern Camaro V6 engine PCM with electronically controlled auto trans, custom A/C system, EPS from the Prius USB ports, and modern gauges is a challenge. In addition I am adding relays to the system in order to keep the major number of electrons out of the switches that were not designed for today's systems. I can't remember if this car originally had 2 or 4 fuses in it. I am now up to 19 fuses not including fusible links/battery fuses. The number of relays is currently up to 7 right now and I'm not finished yet. I'm only into is about a day trying to learn what is needed from what vehicle and get them to talk to each other. Here is what the dining room table looks like in the middle of the "plan". tThe one page front and center, is the entire MGB factory wiring. I have to say it is more involved than the stripping of a RX7 wiring harness for a Locost. I can't wait for the actual wiring.....


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Chuck.

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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: February 12, 2021, 10:17 pm 
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Right on Chuck! I love that part of the build, very relaxing, figuring what goes where for wiring.
Looking at the pic though I do have a concern.........what's with the glue bottle?? Have I missed something all these years? :rofl:

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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: February 13, 2021, 9:04 am 
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Perry, you mean that you have never used glue to hold your wires together :lol: Or possibly we cut out the different schematics from the different systems, then glue them down to a sheet and just draw in the lines between them. [hint use a sheet 2 times larger what you think you need]
Davew


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PostPosted: February 13, 2021, 10:25 am 
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Dave has it almost right Perry. You've never had to extend the wires when re-using a wiring harness? In drawing the new schematic, the glue was used to extend the lines in the schematic just like solder is used to connect longer wires in a real harness. I just drew a line on a separate piece of paper representing the new wire, then cut and glued the newly drawn lines to extend the schematic wire. I 'm surprised that the scissors weren't in the pic.:mrgreen:

The time I spend doing all this paper work helps me to understand the workings and interactions of the many different systems. Once I understand the whole, I can consolidate some redundant wiring and reduce the number of fuses etc. where prudent. Intimately knowing the systems helps if I ever had to fix an electrical problem while on the road.

More snow this morning...... We haven't seen this much snow on the ground at one time for several years. Nothing like out East though.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 1, 2021, 11:07 pm 
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As it turns out, the clock only has a red backlight. :BH: I guess I'll have to use red backlighting. In spite of my aversion to red backlights, it might work out OK with my plan of a deep red interior.

Progress is still being made, slowly. I'm still sorting out the wiring situation. As far as systems go, I know how each "system" will be wired. I now have to plan out where each relay and fuse will be located, and how the wires will get there. It is a chore that I take in small bites. I think I'll separate the fuses into 3 separate locations. One for Full-time power, one for ignition circuits and one for accessory circuits. The location for relays will also need to be sorted out. I won't be running heavy power thru the ignition switch, headlights, starter solenoid and other heavy current circuits. The switch will energize a relay feeding those fuse blocks, solenoids, lights, etc to limit the chance for those switches to wear out. Lucas switches are reportedly not what they used to be.

In the meantime, I have welded up the large holes in the dash panel and cut new holes for the custom layout of new gauges. IT is tough drilling circles with 1/8" drills and then filing them smooth. Any method that gets things done I guess. I also filled up the holes that were used for the OEM heating controls to the tight of the radio cutout. I'm not sure what to do with all of that new found real estate.

Attachment:
modified dash.jpg


I then turned my focus to things behind the dash, figuring I needed to do this to see where fuse panels, A/C and heat hoses, and the HVAC air tubes will be. That eventually sent me to figuring out what dash vents I will be using. I found some small vents that will fit on the outer ends of the dash and got them on order. Then I found the '73 vents will fit in the radio opening perfectly. However they are a bit deep and may run into the AC evaporator unit. I also found that the defroster vent plenums (under the dash) have to be modified to clear those '73 vents. So here I am. I got one done today and another one started.

Attachment:
modified defroster plenum.jpg
Attachment:
OEM defroster plenum.jpg


I received my early steel dash switches today from the UK. the wiper switch is Lucas (actually some 3rd party that has the rights to the Lucas name from what I read) Another switch that was a "reproduction" switch was also ordered. Upon close inspection, they are both from the same mfgr. The plastic housing has the same tool radii and material looks exactly the same even the crimp marks for assembly have the same mis-located witness marks on one side. The only difference is the name Lucas and England, which were cast into one part was clearly blanked out on the repro one.

On another front. I ordered carpeting for the '79 convertible. Spring is coming. :mrgreen:

P.S.S. I got my 1st Covid vaccination last week. FWIW it was the Pfizer one. :yay:


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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 1, 2021, 11:50 pm 
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Looks good. So the dash sits below those holes. Here I thought it mounted to the holes. Interesting.

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My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


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PostPosted: March 2, 2021, 10:29 am 
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The dash mounting method differs on US destination cars between the 63-67 years and 68-80. Canada cars had the steel dash a couple of years beyond us. UK cars much later. US cars from 68 and beyond, the top of the dash (scuttle?) has a flange that is formed at an angle (~45 degrees?). IIRC the dash has a similar angle with press studs. The dash hangs in the holes and are secured by a nut from beyond, For the early years that top flange is formed at 90 deg and the dash panel mounts up from below to a reinforcement welded under the top of the dash. ̶i̶t̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶b̶o̶l̶t̶e̶d̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶b̶e̶l̶o̶w̶ ̶i̶n̶t̶o̶ ̶a̶ ̶w̶e̶l̶d̶-̶n̶u̶t̶.̶ Correction, there are studs in the scuttle and the dash is secured by 3 nuts from below. The holes that you see above my dash itself are for a padded half-round bumper that only exists on those early "steel dash" cars.

I hope you can understand my explanation. :mrgreen:

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


Last edited by rx7locost on March 22, 2021, 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 2, 2021, 10:46 am 
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Great job on the dash Chuck, I remember doing the same for the Topolino. Can't wait to see the final result.
rx7locost wrote:
I hope you can understand my explanation.
Ha ha ha, used to say to the young guys at work "I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you"

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: March 2, 2021, 1:17 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
Great job on the dash Chuck, I remember doing the same for the Topolino. Can't wait to see the final result.
rx7locost wrote:
I hope you can understand my explanation.
Ha ha ha, used to say to the young guys at work "I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you"


Thanks. If I end up looking anything as nice as Topolino, I'll be happy.

I had a similar phrase, "I can teach you but learning it, is up to you."

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 2, 2021, 1:19 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
The dash mounting method differs on US destination cars between the 63-67 years and 68-80. Canada cars had the steel dash a couple of years beyond us. UK cars much later. US cars from 68 and beyond, the top of the dash (scuttle?) has a flange that is formed at an angle (~45 degrees?). IIRC the dash has a similar angle with press studs. The dash hangs in the holes and are secured by a nut from beyond, For the early years that top flange is formed at 90 deg and the dash panel mounts up from below to a reinforcement welded under the top of the dash. it is bolted from below into a weld-nut. The holes that you see above my dash itself are for a padded half-round bumper that only exists on those early "steel dash" cars.

I hope you can understand my explanation. :mrgreen:

Makes sense to me. Thanks for the input.

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My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


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PostPosted: March 8, 2021, 9:54 pm 
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I'm still working on the same several fronts. Electrical and A/C. I finalized the circuits required for the dash. I wanted to make the dash harness unpluggable so the dash can be removed simply by unplugging the wiring. I decided on Molex MLX connectors, a 12 position, a 6 position and a 4 position. The MLX connectors are not watertight auto but they protect both ends' terminals from shorting to ground should I accidentally work on this with the battery connected. It took me searching several suppliers before I found all the parts in one order.

In trying to figure out what space I had left available for the interior fuse box, A/C coolant and heater hoses, I needed to reinstall the wiper assembly. While I was there I rebuilt the wiper drive system, degreasing 52 year old grease. I had to cut off the ferrule on the end of the wiper box shaft that the wiper arms attach to. If you remember way beck when, the DPO had epoxied the wire arms to these ferrules. I recalled somebody had found suitable replacement pieces. With a little searching, I re-found the guy and placed an order. $25 bucks for a couple of cast aluminum pieces! At least it saved me from having to buy new wheel boxes at $74+ shipping. I also ordered the new wiper escutcheons and nuts.

With that taken care of I moved on to the A/C air handling hoses again. I settled on the outer dash vents. I also will have to do some creative work on the center vents. They will require some reengineering to move the airflow entrance from the rear to the sidesm, and to reduce the size of the hoses leading to it. I tell myself, a small car like this doesn't need all that airflow. I hope I'm right. In order for me to transition from the evaporator outlets to the desired hose, I will be designing parts. My son will 3D print them for me at school where he teaches. Good to have somebody like that.

Here are the outside air vents added to the dash today.

Attachment:
side vents.jpg


I also decided how to handle the vacant space to the right of the radio opening (now center A/C dash vents). In looking at my old MGA spare parts, I ran across a couple of old MGTD hubcap centers. They are octagonal cast aluminum pieces with the MG logo cast in the center. They are the right size to balance off the and should will polish up nicely. This pic is from the same piece on my MGA hubcap.

Attachment:
mgtd hubcap.jpg


Now time to finalize the location of the engine fuse/relays, interior fuse/relays, PCM and Cruise Control modules so I can finish up the wiring plans.


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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: March 9, 2021, 1:35 pm 
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Like the outboard vents. Can I ask manufacturer?


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PostPosted: March 9, 2021, 4:18 pm 
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Cool Chuck your on to the fun stuff. The vents do look nice, I can’t wait to see more.

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My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782


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PostPosted: March 9, 2021, 5:13 pm 
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Twenty over, the vents are Nostalgic Air 32-9.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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