Next up in the process was to rebuild the rear springs. I know many people simply buy new springs. From what I read, it is a crap shoot as to what you actually get as there are so many suppliers and the reports of any one vendor seem to vary too. I disassembled the springs, leaf by leaf. Then using various wire wheels and other tools of destruction removed the rust. I radiused the ends of each leaf to help reduce any sticking when flexed and then painted each leaf with Rust oleum. I purchased new nylon spring liners and put them in where the original ones were. As many here have mentioned, the original leaf keepers/clamps are virtually not reusable. I ended up purchasing new Kwik Klamps. They won't be here for a few more days.
Attachment:
rusty rear spring.jpg
Attachment:
painted rear springs.jpg
Last Summer I stopped at BMC Auto (AKA Classic Auto LED) in Isanti, Minnesota. While there, Brian demo'd his LED taillights on an actual car. I was impressed so much I bought a pair. I managed to install them in the taillight housings this week and tested them out. They are now boxed up and on the shelf until final assembly. Expensive? Yes! Impressive? WOW is all I can say.
I settled on a way to secure the manifold cover mentioned earlier. I made 4 bent brackets that fit 4 of the upper intake manifold bolts. Attached to them are 2 cross brackets. All of this was made of 3/4" x 1/8" steel-strip. Due to my cover design that has a step, the front 2 supports are different from the rear ones. Since I wasn't sure exactly how tall these should be, in addition to the inconsistency of my home bending skills(?), I made them adjustable height. The cross brackets have one 10-32 Rivnut in each that rides in slots on the vertical brackets.
I used 4 pieces of 3M Command hook-loop hangers stuck to the cover and the cross brackets to secure it in place. The cover now is secured and fits amazing. To remove the cover All I need to do is just lift the cover off the hook-loops. My only hope is that the adhesive doesn't dry out due to the engine heat. Time will tell. If necessary, I can remove the adhesive from the Command strips and re-glue them with a more robust epoxy.
Attachment:
Screenshot 2023-07-29 155302.jpg
Attachment:
final cover.jpg
In my spare time, I have been helping out a friend who is building a modified MGB. Yeah, spare time (?). It took quite a bit longer than I thought it would. One part of his many design features includes using an MG RV8 dash. I have been figuring out how to implement the RV8's switches along with Autometer gauges. One goal was to make the dash easily removable. The Dash is done, The body wiring now needs to be made to match. Here is a pic of the assembled dash as it sits today.
Attachment:
RV8 dash.jpg
Next up is the fuel pump. I am a firm believer in the in-tank pumps. I have searched and searched for an OEM assy that met my needs with no result. I decided on a Tanks Inc, PA-2 assembly. That was delivered yesterday. As soon as I finish up the rear springs and can clear up some space, that job is next. Stay tuned.
_________________
Chuck.
“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman
Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log:
over HEREOr my Wankel powered Locost log :
over HEREAnd don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766