LocostUSA.com

Chuck,
I would be happy to take one of those OBD 1.5 scanners off your hands if one or more become redundant. Send me a PM or email if you are interested.
Thank you,
Eric

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

Eric, Thanks for your interest. What make/model are you trying to connect to? Each scanner has various cartridges and cables. I can check to see if I have what you would need. If I don't have them, cartridges and adapters are available on eBay.

Frankly, deciding if, or which scanner is surplus won't be soon. Likely more than a year away unless I get to the point where I can kluge a bench test. Doing that is not on my punch list.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Chuck,
I have an opportunity to buy a Camaro 3.4L motor, I think it is a ‘94 or ‘95 (but not sure, need to do my due diligence and check engine number). Seeing your post prompted me to ask in case it happens, then I’ll have a way to talk to it (bonus). This is for a future build, so not critical time wise. I’m neck deep in a Miata motor/trans into an MGA right now (debugging the remaining codes that are showing up on the OBD scan), so this is just setting up potential future tools.

Let me know if either become available when you are ready. If I have the motor, I would be very interested in getting one of them.

Regards,
Eric

_________________
MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

Eric, you have a PM.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

For those interested, I had an opportunity to test different 3 scanners last night on a MGB with L32 engine, courtesy of a friend. First, I grabbed my Mastertech ET2100MT. Plugged it in and it quickly communicated with the PCM. My quick check consisted of reading the VIN programmed to the PCM. Satisfied it functioned, and pretty optimistic, I went on to trying pout #2

Next on the list was my Snap-On MT2500. I installed the "proper" adapters and inserted the K9 personality key as instructed by the "brick". I tried several things to no avail. I could not get the unit to stay on after releasing the power "start" button. The unit must have power to function. With OBD1 adapters, there is a power plug in each adapter. but the 05 PCM requires the OBD2 adapter. I suspect it feeds power back to the "brick" to keep it alive. It did work on the bench. But the OBD2 adapter does not have a power port. Perhaps it expects to have power fed from the vehicle. I did not have time to diagnose any further. I did note that there were 4 wires in the appropriate OBD2 vehicle port locations. 4 & 5 to ground, 16 to switched power and 9 to the tan wire of the PCM. That assumes the wires go there inside the harness. I am not sure what the problem was. I read this morning that one person said he had to select a model year of 1994 to get his MT2500 to work regardless that his PCM was from a '95. Maybe more research/diagnosis will find a successful answer.

On to the Scan9495-V6 program, a freeware program that I found recently. I loaded it on my PC and it appears to function. Hoever, when attached to the vehicle, I could not get a connection. I guess I didn't read far enough about this setup. I was trying with a std OBD2 (with cable) to USB adapter. No luck at all. Tried changing the COM port. Nothing. Today, I found that it takes a special USB-Serial cable. No problem, I have one in my box of "stuff". Unfortunately, the program requires that the cable have a FTDI chipset. The one I have is based on the Prolific chip. I'll also need an OBD2 mating end for the cable to plug into the vehicle's port. I ordered the parts this morning and will come back at a later date with an update on this. Before I left last night, I also tried a BT OBD2 adapter instead of the wired version. I didn't get any of the lights on the reader when first plugged in. I seem to remember that when I plugged it in to my modern cars, there was supposed to be one light. I may be mis-remembering that point. I'll have to check out that too.

Now I am thinking between this BT issue and the MT2500 issue, perhaps there is no power provided by the car on pin 16? More things for me to check on my next attempt.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Have decided to move on from the electrical layout. What hasn't been accounted for, will have to be decided later. TIme for some melting of metal. In that respect, I have removed the engine and trans and reinstalled the body to the rotisserie. TIme to finish up some welding and closing up the gap alongside the transmission tunnel. Pics to come.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yep I can relate, doing the same thing, in fact yesterday I received a 10 pound spool of metal glue from Amazon

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Finally, something to show. I fully welded the firewall mods and ground down those welds. Up to now they were just tack welded in place. I made a small change in the area of the steering shaft, radius-ing a cutout. This is where a flat panel matches up with a cone shaped recess. This provides clearance for access to the header fasteners. The original engine swap kit required removing the engine/trans combo to get to the header. The header was intended to be installed before engine is placed into the car. Dumb plan for future service, if required IMO.





Then started the final design of the floor clearance for the trans pan. Pics to follow when that is completed.

On a different front, I received the first part of my DIY cable to communicate the scan9495 program to the PCM. THe USB to Rs232 (5V ttl level communications) How can you pass up $0.99 on eBay including shipping from China. I bought 3. Still waiting for the OBD2 connector to finish up to cable. For SAG, I attempted to try it out. The adapter requires a mini USB cable that I grabbed from my stash. Win10 loaded the driver and it shows up on Device Manager as COM6. The Scan9495 program appears to recognize the adapter. The transmit LED flashes a couple of times when I try to "connect" to an imaginary PCM, not connected yet. From what I can tell, this device uses a cloned FTDI chip. Frankly I don't care if it original or not so long as it works the few times it will be used.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The floor/tunnel mods are done. I went away from my original plan to keep at least a finger's space in favor of maximizing every little bit of space for my passenger. There were many small pieces to accomplish this.

Time to think about closing up the shifter mechanism from undercar water and mud and general road grime. As it is, the entire mechanism is exposed to all of that. Not sure if I will close up the car body, or simply close the assembly itself. I'm leaning towards the latter.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Metal work is looking great. Tedious work for sure. Interested to see how you tackle the shifter cup.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

MV8, thanks. I have decided to fill in the open holes of the shifter itself, making one enclosure so that the entire assembly comes out as one. I have started with the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design). Planning on having a flange across the top to seal against the tunnel.
Unfortunately, I won't get a chance to finish it for another couple of weeks due to other things taking my time.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Ww were vacationing last week so nothing to report. However, one stop was a shop in Minnesota that specializes in the Camaro V6 conversions. I picked up a reprogrammed PCM, eliminating the Passkey, EGR, Emission gas vapor and a couple other things; conversion throttle cable that mates the GM throttle body and the MG pedal end; a neat little cover that hides the fuel injectors and wiring between the 2 intake manifold runners; and a pair of very expensive LED taillights. I wouldn't have splurged on the latter except that he had a set on car and demonstrated them for me. AMAZING. Just the ticket for someone who has been rear-ended many, many times in my DDs.

Today is the tooth implant post install day and our weekly Wednesday Night Car Club. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get back to closing up the shifter assembly. Happy October! Winter in nigh!

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yesterday I finished up the boxing of the shifter. Sealed and primed. I think it is going to keep all the under-car dirt from

Then I went on to providing a real mount for the coil pack to the firewall. The black piece uses four 1/4-inch bolts. The top two holes are slotted so that it can be hung on partially installed bolts while the lower two are simply holes. I will have to be careful on the bolt length. On the other side of the firewall will sit the A/C unit with only about 1/4-inch gap.

I looks like I should add a drain hole for condensation. What do you think?






On another note, I will be fixing the neighbor lady's lawnmower. She came by and asked that I look into it as it wouldn't start. I found the spark plug was very, very loose. When I went to tighten it up, hours (?) of running with the plug rattling back and forth destroyed the threads in the head. She called the local repair shop and said it was 55$ to pick up, $45 to look it over and another $55 to return it. That is without any work actually being done or parts cost. They also said that the threads may have been dropped into the engine and there may be more damage. She is close to 80 years old and living on a fixed income. She still does her lawn! For <50 bucks I will have a new head and head gasket to install. I bought them online for her as she is afraid to make online purchases. She watches over our house from her dining area when we are travelling. Good neighbors do that for each other.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

AC evap condensation, yes, shifter condensation no.

She sounds smart. I hope she doesn't answer the phone.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Well Chuck, you just climbed my respect ladder to the top, we could only wish that the world would take a lesson on that. Kudos Kudos Kudos

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle