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PostPosted: December 26, 2021, 2:17 pm 
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Gotta luv the v6-60! :cheers:

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PostPosted: January 7, 2022, 11:51 am 
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Next up: Transmission Mount Redo 2.0. After looking at many, many builds, it would appear that the tail of my trans is too low. From all of those pics, the trans mount is supposed to bow upwards. All my work until now was with it in the bow down position :BH: The kit instructions say the engine should be angled between 3 and 5 degrees down. I recall measuring a rough 5.5 deg and thought it would be OK when things were fully bolted in place. After seeing the pics, I took some measurements on the power train and the crossmember and put it into CAD. If I reverse the bow, it will make a 4-degree change, putting the power train at ~1.5 deg. Not good. Soooo, more work to do on the engine/trans mounting. I may have to build a new crossmember. However, it has turned cold. -4deg F this morning. I want to measure the roadster powertrain for references. However, it is sitting in the driveway under a winter cover. it is to damn cold outside right now to do that. I also need to open the garage door to get the car off the rotisserie. There goes that heat. Not gonna happen until I get a warm(ish) spell.

Wife an I went to my local American Science and Surplus store on Wednesday to look at some embroidery thread. I happened to see, off in a corner, a barrel with 4 or 6 tubes. Each tube was labeled as containing 2 leather hides in a grayish beige for $99. IIRC, it was ID'd as upholstery leather. It is AS&S so descriptions are missing a lot of details. As it is, that is a steal price for leather. Being Wednesday, seniors get another 10% off. Essentially $90 for 2 hides. I started to think really hard...... This morning I decided to let that go for now. I have to many other boxes to check off as it is, before creating more boxes. The website https://www.sciplus.com/ doesn't list this so I can't get any more info on it.

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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 10:24 am 
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Chuck
As long as both the rear axle and engine are on the same relative angle, an injected engine is not going to care about the drive line angle.
Davew


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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 11:41 am 
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Dave. Agreed. I have understood, perhaps falsely, that I need at a minimum of 1 degree operating angle of each U-joint to keep the life expectancy of the joint. I think that ideally, this would be < 3-5 degrees, but that is not necessarily a hard limit. In addition, the two u-joints should cancel each other out less than 3 degrees. That is the most important measurement in order to keep the shaft vibrations down.

My issue is, I don't know the angle or position of the differential nose when at ride level and under acceleration. Late this week, the weather is supposed to get over freezing and if we don't have snow/rain, I'll be measuring the fully assembled drivetrain in the MG in the driveway. That should give me the numbers and confidence to move forward. I hope to get the GT off the rotisserie then too.

edit: I just read that the rear axle in the MGB is 6-7 degrees up. Supposedly, to compensate for loads and axle movement. I'm not sure if that is in the static loaded position. I suspect so. my above understanding may relate to an IRS setup where the differential doesn't move up or down under load, relative to the engine. Maybe 6-7 degrees up on the diff and 4 deg down at the engine is reasonable on a leaf spring car?

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 1:02 pm 
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The shaft should never point up to the pinion.

The joint would not have a 6-7 degree normal operating angle. Maybe they checked it without the dampers connected and the axle hanging by the leafs.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 1:45 pm 
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MV8, maybe I misunderstand your comment. I think we are talking different things. Pinion angle and operating angle are not the same. Pinion angle, without any other context as I understand it, is defined as looking at the pinion from the side with respect to ground. The engine/trans angle is stated similarly, from the side.

I'm not saying this is the case, but if the pinion angle is 6 degrees up pointing at the trans tailshaft, the engine is 6 degrees down, and they are co-axial then there is zero u-joint operating angle. Not a problem other than u-joint life. Not a good solution, of course.

Now if the diff is raised or lowered, while the pinion angle remains at 6 deg up, then u-joint angles start to move away from zero.

That is my understanding of the basic angle definitions, again, without other qualifying conditions or context.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: January 8, 2022, 5:17 pm 
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It wasn't clear to me what you were referring to in your previous comment.

If there is no relative motion per rotation, I don't see they need for any operating angle to move lubrication around but the reference to have some has been around for decades. Miatas have zero with the ppf and yet they still wear out or maybe the grease drys out. An irs without a ppf still has some pinion angle change under load but it isn't much.

If you are planning on leafs, you could fit torque links or other aids to control the pinion angle under full load if it becomes an axle wrap induced issue but instead of coaxial, consider parallel and within 1.5 degrees so the angle is reduced when the diff is raised in the chassis. :cheers:

To adjust the pinion angle, a standard taper shim could be used, just narrowed and the hole reduced for a good fit over the locating pin/stack bolt head or added to the stack, depending on the shim design and material. Most are aluminum but rubicon sells steel. You could physically check results before buying shims by placing washers or drill bits under the aft edge of the axle base mount with the weight on the springs. A transverse 4x4 cut the width of the springs and sitting on $2 concrete foundation blocks would work well and be safer than individual jack stands at the necessary height. It may scream “shade tree mech” but it is much more stable.

From what I can tell, the dampers and bump stops are indexed by the leafs, not the axle so the pinion angle change should not be an issue.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 16, 2022, 10:58 pm 
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Do you think that Nut-sert could be used to relocate the rear mount holes instead of moving the captive plates? I am looking at a 1980's Z28 auto shifter to use with a 94 700R4 auto trans in a 1975 MGB chassis. What year shifter did you use? The car already has a 3.4 V6 with T5 5 speed trans using Bill Guman's kit. Due to health issues it needs to become an automatic. Thanks.


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PostPosted: January 24, 2022, 9:57 pm 
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Sorry John. I just saw your post. I wouldn't trust a nutsert. It might work, but why take the risk? After all is said and done, I think a proper crossmember can be built using the nut plates in the original location. I went down this rabbit hole trying to use the Guzman crossmember and thus needed to move them. Lesson learned the hard way. :BH:

I would recommend a shifter to match the 700R4 tranny that you are using. The shifter detent spacing should match the trans detents I would think. I am using the same shifter the trans came from, a 94/95 Camaro/Firebird, but I have the 4l60E trans.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


Last edited by rx7locost on January 24, 2022, 10:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: January 24, 2022, 10:32 pm 
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MV8. OEM leaf spring is planned. I have decided to try to match what others have said is the "right" tilt of the engine/trans ass'y. If necessary, later I can adjust the OEM rear axle/springs.

Finally, I have some progress to report. As of 5:30 this afternoon, the new and improved transmission crossmember is completed and welded. The engine now sits at 3.4 deg down. Later on, if required to get closer to 4 deg, I can raise the front engine mounts up a bit, or I can put some spacers to drop the rear a bit. I honestly don't think it will be necessary though. The relocated nut plates have been tested and closed in. And the floor cutouts have been welded back into place.

I had always planned on changing the diff ratio. Some aftermarket gears are available by the usual MG suppliers. It is not necessary. The MGB cam from the factory with 3.9 gears. The MGC, the short lived inline 6 cyl version of the MGB, came with a few different ratios, 3.7, 3.3 and 3.1. A set of gears with 3.3 ratio came up "used" but never unwrapped and in the package at an attractive price. SO now I have yet another hoop to jump before getting this project on the road


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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: January 25, 2022, 8:39 am 
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Looks great! Nice engine choice too. :cheers:

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 26, 2022, 11:09 am 
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Thank MV8. For me, the engine choice is more about following in the footsteps of others, than me being a big fan. That said, I did some research before choosing it. It should meet all of my goals for fit, moderate power and reliability. When I get to that part of my build, I may just look down the plugs to see the cyl wall conditions and run a compression/leakdown test. If all checks out, I'll likely just clean up the exterior and call it a day. These engines can last a lot of miles, this one had <100,000 according to the previous owner. He pulled it to put a V8 in his Camaro. Taht car was gone when I got the engine, so I had no way to verify.

Is there a vehicle number on the engine block somewhere? If so, I can search the internet for any mileage history. I know that how it was serviced over the years has more to do with condition than actual mileage.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: January 26, 2022, 1:29 pm 
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There is a stamping pad for a partial vin on the passenger side where the head meets the block between the first two cylinders. Color inside the valve covers is usually a good indicator. I'm partial to a light gold. :cheers:

On the diff angle,if needed, moog sells a large variety of leaf taper shims as "caster wedges" in manganese bronze and zinc, ranging from 0.5 to 6 degrees in half degree increments and sold individually. They are all too wide but can be narrowed as needed.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 26, 2022, 2:15 pm 
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Thanks for the tip. I was thinking, if necessary, I could simply shim the crossmember down from the frame. It will be some time before I will know for sure which way I will go or if I even need to go. It is good to have many solutions in the toolbox. :cheers:

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: January 30, 2022, 9:15 pm 
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I have chosen to add power brakes from later MGBs on my project. I posted this on the MGexp board and got crickets. Hopefully some of the brains on this board will know and can advise:

I found a complete setup that needed some cleanup. While doing some inspection and cleanup, I found that the seal between the servo and the M/C is missing. From reading other posts, it appears that I am not unique in this issue. It should have a metal cup and rubber seal. If I put a handmade gasket between the M/C and servo, the booster appears to be functional. I haven't gotten up to full vacuum, but it does hold a few inches of vac. The rubber seal appears to be available from several suppliers but not the cup, unless I purchase a complete brake master repair kit. I only need the cup and seal not the whole kit as the M/C is too pitted for a honing and will be replaced rather than rebuilt. Sleeving the M/C is not on the radar. Beyond that, not all rebuild kits have the cup. The AP kit appears to but is out of stock from the usual suppliers.

Now on to my question. Looking at it closely, it would appear that the purpose is to seal the atmosphere from entering the vacuum side of the servo. If I add a gasket, I should adjust the length of the pushrod accordingly. One possible alternative that eliminates the adjusting is to just use a gasket former. Originality is not my goal. I wonder if anyone has run into this issue and what their solution was.

What say you?

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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