LocostUSA.com

This fit/trim/cut/fab fiddly stuff is quite the time suck, isn't it? You work all day and repair the car by inches at a time.. These pics are the very definition of tenacity

I'm loving your rotisserie!.. I'm useless for welding upside down.. I should make mine to flippy-flop too

--ccrunner

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Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

Thanks man. Yes it is inch by inch, all
In all the body is pretty solid. These new panels really suck. Anyway the key to upside down is to keep pushing into the puddle. Other than that all of your gun angles are the same as flat(1G). With any process it’s the same. You just have to mentally tell your self “keep pushing in”. Soon it’s second nature. How ever you weld flat do that!

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Chuck I’m on it today, Hahaha. So another 5hrs, I can’t start that now it will be out of hand in no time. Anyway the fit came in pretty quick but Fiddle ...... around with the inside wheel well patch so it lays in behind the dogleg took some time and beating around. Making sure all this goes in so that dogleg has some adjustment is kinda nerve racking. Put the front wing on got the gaps all lined up. Then made some new angle to put some structure back into the front of the sill as well as the door opening. That section I welded the angle on the inside of the sill. From there it gets spot welded to the flange and after I’ll Tig weld the cut edge to make it water tight. I think from here it will come together. Friday I leave for 4days of fishing at Rainey Lake MN. Should be a relaxing time.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

One sill, jeez that’s a ordeal. Next one should be a lot easier. I also should have bought the cheap ones since I’d have to cut them apart too, who knew. I have to run a Tig pass down the door opening and post yet. I’m thinking easier when the door comes off. After the dogleg is on I’ll peel it off. The sill gap is a little large for my liking at the door arch. Idk what you do about that, squirt some seam seal in it?

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Since you ask...... I think you'll be OK. Something looks off though. The original arch horizontal surface looks convex relative to the top surface of the sill. And it looks much wider. You could possible slit that arced surface and tuck it in and weld it shut if you think that is OK. Think about where the door is when shut and how the door seal will fit over the lip and compress against the door panel. If the sill and dogleg will line up, then I'd go with it. The gap under the door looks wider than thru the dogleg arc. Maybe a optical illusion. I think ccrunner needed to open the door gap on his P1800 build. He ground it down then welded the edges back together. You could just add a weld bead to tighten up the bottom door gap.

When you get to the other side, think about leaving about 1/2inch of the outer surface around the original arch to preserve the shape
and gap around the door.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I see you didn’t have to cut into you jam with that dogleg. Nice, mine was rust. Don’t take that dogleg for 100%. It’s just clamped there. There is plenty of adjustment. Although I think it may end up with a narrower gap than the bottom. I never thought of welding on the bottom of the door to make that gap narrow that’s a good idea.
The arc of the new to old is slightly off but I think I can tack it and tap it as I go to blend it together. These will be all Tig welded.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Got the dog leg on today. It sure contracted along the weld, I’m
Not getting away with not filling it, shoot. Other than that I think it came out well. It needs to be cleaned up. I got seam seal on the inside around the rocker tie as well as Por-15 so we should be ok for rust proofing. On to the front support bracket and rust patch and fender. That’s a big weld I can hardly wait. I thought I took my time on this too. Maybe more tacks, like every 1/4”. I had about every 1”.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

I knew this wasn’t going to be fun and it wasn’t 10+hrs into this little panel. It’s by far not Ron Covell quality but it will work, at least it should. Next is to Por 15 and blank off plate and trumpet panel.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Looks good Steve. And also too familiar. It seems to be a common area for rust. I only had to replace the DS Trumpet and the inner fender there. The PS only needed the top of the trumpet replaced and a few additional spots. Nothing as major as the DS. Just keep thinking for every piece of rust you replace, it is 40-50 years more life put into the old girl. I don't look at a concours resto, just a functional and not too redneck looking fix. Keep up the good progress.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Oh wow you had the whole side to do. I’ll tell you what with the compound curves and the little bump out in that panel, what a bitch. Yours looks awesome, Chuck.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Keep plugging along. I think this will work. I need to finish blending but we’re almost there with the trumpet replacement.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Coming along.....

FYI, I knew I was not going to use the 2-fuse panel so I removed the mount for it. My GT is a early '69 built in Nov '68 so it only has 2 fuses. Whatever I do use will probably require a different size. I'll deal with that soon. You may want to think about that.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I got it!! Jeez man that was an ordeal. What 15-16hrs on this. It will work and I think it actually looks good. On to the front fender and passenger toe kick. Then I can take this door off. I got the windows working to. If you guys haven’t discovered Aerokroil your missing out. You’ll take that PB Blaster and throw it right in the trash.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Chuck!! Hey funny you said something about that. I was wondering what that was. Alright, I’ll wack that off!

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782

Started fitting the patch panel, scraped off some undercoating and got it ready for welding tomorrow. That was a full day believe it or not.

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Steve

My build : http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 35&t=17160

MGB/GT V8 5.0L. viewtopic.php?f=36&t=20782