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 Post subject: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 15, 2021, 9:36 pm 
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So, I finally decided that my Jeep doesn't blend in too well at the Locost gatherings and bit the bullet on this Craigslist find (Woo hoo!):
Attachment:
IMG_20210910_182812059~2.jpg

This thread may be less of a "build" and more of a "work out all the kinks so I can drive it" thread for a little while.
It's technically a one owner 1968 MGB GT with working overdrive. It has a few issues but overall it is a pretty solid car.

As far as the body goes, it has a fair amount of rot in the left rocker area and the right side appears to have a piece of sheet metal screwed down for the floor. It all feels solid, so for now, it'll stay that way.

First four things I need to tackle:
Bad water pump (leaks and rumbles)
Oil leak from the tappet cover (may be a crank case venting issue)
Carb tuning (Weber 32/36 DGEV. Stalls when braking hard. I have made 2 attempts at setting the float height with no luck)
Bad vacuum advance (disconnected for now. Leaks)


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 16, 2021, 12:52 am 
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Location: No. Nevada
I have a 70 I am about to cut up.
Post pics of where the body is rotted, I may have better parts?

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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 16, 2021, 6:02 am 
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Location: Wilson, NY
Nice! These are great looking cars. Looking forward to your progress.
Cheers!
Eric

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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 16, 2021, 7:47 am 
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Sweet!
I guess this is a hot stall condition? I’d check the tank for water by draining/siphoning off the bottom a quart or so into a clear container to look for separation from using ethanol. Check for any intake leaks and throttle shaft wear. Install the carb with the bowl forward of the barrels, raise the idle slightly, adjust the mixture hot, slightly rich of peak (with bowl forward), replace/clean the fuel filter, and check the fuel pressure is no more than 3.5psi or less than 3psi at the carb inlet. If you need to take the carb apart again, photo inventory the parts to keep in a file on your pc and make a word doc for all the part numbers and a dated log of problems and what you did to solve them. Most pics these days are high resolution so you can zoom in to see better than a magnifying glass. Retain the head shield between the intake and exhaust manifold. Eliminate as much rubber hose as possible for metal and nylon. Electronic ignition, inductive spiral core plug wires, modern (80s?) epoxy coil versus oil filled, etc.

I mention the carb orientation because I've seen them installed both ways and you didn't show an engine pic.

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Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
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VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 16, 2021, 11:31 am 
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Cool, another poor mans Aston Martin on the forum. If it were me, I'd ditch the weber and go back to HS4's, though I've ditched the whole motor and gearbox and gone a different route.

As for the oil leaks, the tappet covers are notorious for it. Make sure you get the correct gaskets for the covers, I seem to recall one was rubber and one was cork, depending on the shape of the cover. Also, get the seals for the tappet cover bolts. Changing the water pump is easy, but again, get the correct one. There's a few pumps depending on the motor that's in the car (18G numbered motors have a different pump than an 18V etc). And, if you were closer to me, I have a bunch of distributors, but I haven't look at them close enough to tell which car's they're off of.


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 16, 2021, 1:58 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
Congratulations on your GT. With an overdrive to boot! These things are popping out of the woodwork! I think this is the 4th B-GT currently here.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 17, 2021, 10:46 am 
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Thank you, all.
I'm glad to see that I'll have plenty of support here.

I'll dig in to the car a little more this weekend but here are a few things I know:
-Weber DGEV with pierce manifold. (Yep, it's backwards. Good call).
-Crane Cams fireball electronic ignition with fireball coil.
-The engine block is missing its ID tag so there goes that. I assume this is the original engine, if so Moss says the code should be something like 18GF/WE/H101.
-The compression test came out good. On a hot engine, the readings were 155, 155, 152, 155.
-The distributor had some numbers: 41155 B, 668 2.


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 17, 2021, 11:27 am 
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The missing ID on the engine is likely from hot tanking the engine during a rebuild sometime in the past. A common problem where the machinist doesn't remove the aluminum tag. If so, I would question whether yours is the engine that came with that car or not. It could be and just as likely that it isn't. I don't know how to tell the various models from the outside of the engine. In my MGA engine, a 3 main MOWOG "B" series engine, same family engine as the MGB, there were ID/date stamps in the mating surface of the block where the oil pan seals. if I remember correctly that is.

"if so Moss says the code should be something like 18GF/WE/H101." It should read 18GF/RWe/H (or L)xxxxx. The R indicates the overdrive and the H/L indicates high or low compression engines.

BTW, the engine number prefix is not just the engine, but also includes the trans that went with it and what type of emissions were included.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 17, 2021, 10:28 pm 
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RichardSIA wrote:
I have a 70 I am about to cut up.
Post pics of where the body is rotted, I may have better parts?

I'll have to go through the body with a magnet but anything floor or rocker related would be good. I think the driver's side dog leg has some holes and both trumpet support brackets are rotted on their tops. Possibly the driver's side front fender may be worse than I'm thinking.

Above all else, I would sure like a hood prop and the rear hatch MGB logo. I'm using the broom handle supplied with the car to keep the hood up and I've been having to look at this every time I step out of the house:
Attachment:
IMG_20210917_210846084~2.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 18, 2021, 7:14 pm 
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The early style rod type bonnet support is simple to make with a vice and hammer, using a 1/4 or 5/16 inch rod and some hardware from Home Depot then just buy a new replacement rubber clip to stow it. Both styles are available new.


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_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 18, 2021, 9:01 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
The early style rod type bonnet support is simple to make with a vice and hammer, using a 1/4 or 5/16 inch rod and some hardware from Home Depot then just buy a new replacement rubber clip to stow it. Both styles are available new.

O, that should be plenty easy. Thanks for the measurements.

rx7locost wrote:
The missing ID on the engine is likely from hot tanking the engine during a rebuild sometime in the past. A common problem where the machinist doesn't remove the aluminum tag. If so, I would question whether yours is the engine that came with that car or not. It could be and just as likely that it isn't. I don't know how to tell the various models from the outside of the engine. In my MGA engine, a 3 main MOWOG "B" series engine, same family engine as the MGB, there were ID/date stamps in the mating surface of the block where the oil pan seals. if I remember correctly that is.

"if so Moss says the code should be something like 18GF/WE/H101." It should read 18GF/RWe/H (or L)xxxxx. The R indicates the overdrive and the H/L indicates high or low compression engines.

BTW, the engine number prefix is not just the engine, but also includes the trans that went with it and what type of emissions were included.

More on block issue, I tried to date the block but mine doesn't have a date clock that I could find. The PO said that when he talked to the original owners wife and a long time friend, the head had been rebuilt recently (paperwork to prove it) but the block is original as much as they knew. I bet you are correct about hot tanking though, with the missing ID plate and the compression numbers being as good as they are, I bet the block had been rebuilt in the 90's when they did the shoddy paint and bodywork. Fun fact: Rust-Oleum Shell White perfectly color matches the car.

Also, this car has an original dealer installed air conditioner compressor. I plan to remove it along with the smog pump. Anybody in search of one for their project? I just see it as a horse power thief. There my be an evaporator under the dash somewhere as well but I haven't looked that hard.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Sweet!
I guess this is a hot stall condition? I’d check the tank for water by draining/siphoning off the bottom a quart or so into a clear container to look for separation from using ethanol. Check for any intake leaks and throttle shaft wear. Install the carb with the bowl forward of the barrels, raise the idle slightly, adjust the mixture hot, slightly rich of peak (with bowl forward), replace/clean the fuel filter, and check the fuel pressure is no more than 3.5psi or less than 3psi at the carb inlet. If you need to take the carb apart again, photo inventory the parts to keep in a file on your pc and make a word doc for all the part numbers and a dated log of problems and what you did to solve them. Most pics these days are high resolution so you can zoom in to see better than a magnifying glass. Retain the head shield between the intake and exhaust manifold. Eliminate as much rubber hose as possible for metal and nylon. Electronic ignition, inductive spiral core plug wires, modern (80s?) epoxy coil versus oil filled, etc.

I mention the carb orientation because I've seen them installed both ways and you didn't show an engine pic.
I turned the carb around last night an was able to take it for a spin. Fixed the issue completely an made it capable of idling smoother at lower rpms. I don't think I would have ever have caught that without your suggestion.


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 19, 2021, 4:51 pm 
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Glad to help. Maybe that has something to do with the sale of it?

Does it have a pertronix electronic ignition or points?

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 19, 2021, 9:20 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Glad to help. Maybe that has something to do with the sale of it?

Does it have a pertronix electronic ignition or points?


It has a Crane Cams fireball electronic ignition with fireball coil. I think the company was changed to "Fast Ignition" or something similar.
I do think the PO may have been getting a little discouraged by its issues. It may have influenced him to sell it. I know it sure had me white knuckled while driving it through Kansas City traffic on my 4 hour drive home with it. The body wasn't quite as pretty as I imagined when I picked it up but mechanically, it pretty much makes up for it.
Attachment:
IMG_20210919_195649810~2.jpg
I managed to remove the smog pump and dealer(?) added air conditioner compressor. Now there is actually some space around the engine to work. I have no ideas if there is any value to this stuff but it won't happen to find its way on to the car again.

Now I can replace the water pump and figure out how to mount the alternator.


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: September 27, 2021, 7:27 pm 
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Attachment:
IMG_20210925_113119535~2.jpg

The water pump should be here tomorrow. The distributor and vacuum advance will be sent to Advanced Distributors shortly.
In the meantime, I picked up a set of HF hammers and dollies and made a nice little slapper out of some metal laying around. I don't have a torch handy for bending the handle so I improvised with the tig welder.
I've played with them a bit on another project and they seem to work well. Body work is a ways out but I'm getting ready.


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 Post subject: Re: Smiths MGB GT Build
PostPosted: April 2, 2022, 6:27 pm 
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It's been a minute from my last update.
Attachment:
IMG_20220402_160332854~2.jpg

I have been slowly eliminating all the coolant leaks and I am down to the last, the head gasket.
During disassembly, I found one of my lifters is not like the others...
Attachment:
IMG_20220402_160315148~2.jpg

While I am filling up my cart on Moss Motors website, aside from a lifter and tappet set, is there anything else I should do while I am in here?
Also, what is the best method to break the seal on the current head gasket? I've been tapping the sides with a mallet and prying the head up between the water pump and thermostat housing but am afraid of damaging something.


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