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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 22, 2023, 12:27 pm 
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Whatever you choose to do, once the frame is in place, the notchy transition can be radiused with a few pieces of sheet metal. This shows how I addressed it on my "Book" frame.


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PostPosted: January 27, 2023, 12:07 pm 
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Wow, that is a great idea. Thanks
Right now, I have tilted that angle a bit and added an extra angle tube to reinforce that. I did what Miatav8 suggested.
I'm just trying to think ahead, how I will contour the aluminum sheet over that curved surface?
But I like the idea to add that curvature. I will do that, after making a wheel mock up, to see how it will look like.

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PostPosted: February 2, 2023, 8:49 pm 
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I really like the car you are designing yours similar to. Do you happen to know what it's called or any more pictures of it? I'd especially like to see the front end.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2023, 10:14 am 
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CodySimonson wrote:
I really like the car you are designing yours similar to. Do you happen to know what it's called or any more pictures of it? I'd especially like to see the front end.

Donkervoort
Some examples here: https://www.netcarshow.com/donkervoort/

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PostPosted: February 3, 2023, 12:37 pm 
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I don't know anything about it, I just found these pictures on the net, and I fell in love with the car.
I will have to find that windshield somewhere, but it won't be easy.
Here is a picture with the front.
Also I'm thinking if it would be a good idea to make a lowered floor, to sit lower, like the Caterhams have.
My engine/trans sticks out 1" below the frame anyway.


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PostPosted: February 4, 2023, 12:00 pm 
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That is an interesting sevenesque car. I have a bunch of photos of it too. It's made in France.

As to the windshield, that could be a challenge. For a variety of reasons others have been on the same quest here. There are shops that will do custom windshields from scratch, but the cost is enormous and it's primarily done for manufacturers design studios and their prototypes.

The two most common Locost solutions have been: 1) use and existing car windshield (e.g. MGB or VW); or 2) use a small boat windshield from the 50's-70's era.

A third solution might me buy one from that French company we're discussing. I have no idea how to contact them, however.

Also, none of the ready-made scuttles I've ever seen are created for anything other than a flat windshield, so be prepared to build your own.

None of the above means it can't be done of course. So, good luck to you.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2023, 2:12 pm 
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There's a guy and his son on YouTube that 3d printed body panels and made a space frame in the shape of an Aventador. The used a cut down Chrysler Town and country windshield glued to a steel frame. With enough patience you could form aluminum c channel to go around a cut down windshield. Or if you build a roll cage in you could design it to sit on a sheet metal frame within the front hoop.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2023, 1:52 am 
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The VW Super Beetle glass is way to tall, but maybe it can be cut down. I also need to measure one to see the width, if it is even good for my car.
Also with a lower windshield I'm considering lowering the floor, maybe an inch(Caterham style). Do I really need that though? I'm 5'10".
rx7locost, what is the radius of that added part? I will make that myself, I like how it looks. I have added another steeper angled tube, just to add rigidity to that point, since I won't have that traditional roll bar. I will have those two round roll bars.
Got lucky with an NC MX5 LSD. Got one from the bay, for $312(!). Did some investigation with the VIN# and found out, that it is an LSD. The seller did not know that.
Got some rear suspension(all the control arms(2x5 pieces !) and the knuckles, spindles w/discs for $217(!). Two of the control arms(tie rods) were bent though. $40 each new takes care of that.
I did not want to bend them back, and take a risk on them. I don't have anything to heat them up.
I just need the two calipers, sway bar with the links, two half shafts and the rear end is done.
I just have to figure out, how to line it up to the frame.
The wheel radius is 12.84"(25.68" is a 17" wheel/tire= 245/45R17) minus the ground clearance right?
Planning to have a 6.5" ground clearance, for street use. 11.84"- 6.5"= 6.34". So from the bottom of the chassis 6.34" up, right?
I assume that the crossmember has to be leveled to the floor.

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PostPosted: February 5, 2023, 11:39 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
....
Also with a lower windshield I'm considering lowering the floor, maybe an inch(Caterham style). Do I really need that though? I'm 5'10".
rx7locost, what is the radius of that added part? I will make that myself, I like how it looks. I have added another steeper angled tube, just to add rigidity to that point, since I won't have that traditional roll bar. I will have those two round roll bars.
........



Personally, I would be worried about lowering the floor. I think some amount of protection is provided by the frame itself. Having my bottom lower than that protection was just a bit too much risk. That, and I couldn't lower it any further, since I was somewhere around 4-1/2" ground clearance to start with.

As for the radius, I don't know what is was. I started with the rear fender and simply drew on the metal to create that radius. You can easily tac-weld a piece to the frame, draw the radius on the plate and then remove it. Cut to the line. Then replicate that piece 3 more times. Easy-peasy process for a locoster. You could also create the radius with CAD too. (Cardboard Aided Design) and duct tape. I tried to center it all on the wheel rear's center and added some DIY vinyl beading.


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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: February 5, 2023, 8:02 pm 
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Thanks for that.
I have just looked up Kinetic fenders, and it seems like they are 30". So I have my answer.
The fender price is per fender, or for a pair?

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