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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: October 25, 2006, 4:47 pm 
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I like the pics want2race posted. even drilled for weight savings. seems link a viable solution. I wouldn't build anything without having a driveshaft to check clearance with though.

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PostPosted: October 25, 2006, 8:50 pm 
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You're pretty much going to have to use a ppf or something similar. I wouldn't be concerned of the weight, it's made from aluminum. So after cutting it to fit it should weigh even less.


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PostPosted: October 25, 2006, 9:26 pm 
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So if I understand this correctly, controlling the movement (rotation) of the diff is the primary concern here.

I suppose then that it isn't critical to connect it to the transmission, you could just as well bolt it to the tranny tunnel?

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PostPosted: October 25, 2006, 11:36 pm 
Is it used to locate and as a secondary function cancel vibrations? if the secondary vibrations is a partial reason then I would shorten and bolt up as stock.


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PostPosted: October 26, 2006, 6:12 am 
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THAWA wrote:
You're pretty much going to have to use a ppf or something similar. I wouldn't be concerned of the weight, it's made from aluminum. So after cutting it to fit it should weigh even less.


Ok, so after you cut the aluminum PPF, you now have to weld it back together....how is that stronger than making a new one? I can't weld aluminum, but I'm sure some people can.

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PostPosted: October 26, 2006, 10:35 am 
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It may or may not be, depending on your welding skills. But if your welding is questionable, have someone else do it. You wouldn't weld the chassis together with steel tubing if you couldn't do it properly would you? The other idea is just cutting it to fit. I think one of the sides is the same size all the way down, so you just have to make sure the new place where it bolts is acceptable.

Bolting the diff to the chassis would make that part of the chassis a stressed member, and isn't the tranny tunnel supposed to be 3/4"? If it can take the torque it's a good place to mount it. Maybe see what can be done to allows the force to travel somewhere else, or use bigger tubes.


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PostPosted: October 27, 2006, 4:10 pm 
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I'm glad I found this thread - I thought I was going mad. I was sure I had posted I reply in my build diary, but it disappeared. :?

The pictures of the lightened square tube are exactly what I have in mind, but using angle iron.


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PostPosted: October 27, 2006, 8:53 pm 
WE just testing level of awareness.


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PostPosted: October 29, 2006, 8:05 pm 
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Well my version of a diff mount is finished. More details on its construction are in my build log. I accomplished my goal of staying out of the tunnel and thus having to widen it.

Image

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PostPosted: October 29, 2006, 11:20 pm 
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I dunno. Even with the bracing at the bottom, it's still feeding a lot of torque into the middle of the top tube. Maybe add a few more tubes to transfer the load away. Then again, i might just be too cautious.


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PostPosted: October 29, 2006, 11:28 pm 
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THAWA wrote:
I dunno. Even with the bracing at the bottom, it's still feeding a lot of torque into the middle of the top tube. Maybe add a few more tubes to transfer the load away. Then again, i might just be too cautious.


I figured the load would be shared equally by the top and bottom braces but I a no engineer. And yes there will be more bracing on that top cross tube.

There is only one way to tell if it will work- 5k rpm clutch dumps with R compounds. :P

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PostPosted: October 29, 2006, 11:35 pm 
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atta boy!


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PostPosted: November 27, 2006, 10:53 pm 
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Here is Westfield's solution:


Attachments:
westfielddiffmount.jpg
westfielddiffmount.jpg [ 88.87 KiB | Viewed 8192 times ]

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PostPosted: November 28, 2006, 12:35 am 
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So Coveland boasts a "Special" frame for Miata donor builds. Is that what is different about it?

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PostPosted: November 28, 2006, 12:48 pm 
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-DOUG- wrote:
So Coveland boasts a "Special" frame for Miata donor builds. Is that what is different about it?

It is set up for the Miata rear suspension unlike the book chassis which is made for a solid rear axle.

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