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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 3:38 pm 
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botbasher wrote:
Think about it... if Colin thought steel was the cats pajamas, he'd have used it, right?
Like he did with the Seven, for example. I see what you did there. :)

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 3:58 pm 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
botbasher wrote:
Think about it... if Colin thought steel was the cats pajamas, he'd have used it, right?
Like he did with the Seven, for example. I see what you did there. :)


The vast majority of Sevens have aluminium floors (of mere 18g thickness).

I believe that the prototype Twin Cam Seven SS had rivetted steel panelling for both sides and floor, in an attempt to increase stiffness, but this was abandoned for the production models.

With steel being cheaper than alloy, you can be damned sure that Chapman would have used it if he thought it was even close to being as good.


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 7:12 pm 
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Sam_68 wrote:
I assumed that people would take it as read that I thought steel was OK from the simple fact that I didn't say it wasn't.
Fair enough. Your comments seemed, and continue, to mostly focused on the advantages of aluminum and disadvantages of steel, while simultaneously minimizing the equivalent disadvantages of aluminum and advantages of steel. There is still an air of 'scaremongering' in this approach, just a bit more subtly so than with fiery death.


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I think you'll find that the reality is that a car with a mild steel floorpan is also more prone to rust than one with an aluminium one (due to the fact that aluminum 'passivates' its surface by oxidation, whereas oxidation of steel just keeps on going.
This is where I was really looking for empirical data.

One hypothesis states that the holes in the aluminum floor has an elevated probability of insufficient sealing allowing moisture to enter the system. The competing hypothesis is that the welded steel floor has an elevated probability of insufficient finish integrity, allowing for surface exposure. Both are technically true. Based on the answers in this thread, there is anecdotal evidence supporting that both options can realistically result in an acceptably rust free chassis on these types of cars. However, there is no empirical data available regarding which potential problem is actually more likely to occur under what individually experienced circumstances.

Since external corrosion is also much more easily observed than internal rust, that's the one almost guaranteed to get more publicity. However, it's also more easily removed and repaired. Without cutting open the lower chassis tubes on a variety of well used older cars, you'll never know just what the insides of the tubes look like by comparsion. So it's all just speculation and opinions based on each persons differing experiences, that won't necessarily all lead to the same conclusions, and there is (well, at least there should be) absolutely nothing wrong with that.

I'm also by no means saying that my opinion disagrees with yours on aluminum vs steel both probably providing a similarly reasonably similar (if not equivalent) amount of fire protection while the driver is still alive, just that I have not seen anybody present enough objective analysis on the matter of materials and survivability in car fires to pass it off as a totally indisputable objective fact. Racing rules may indicate that aluminum is sufficient to meet the bare minimum required to achieve acceptable legal risks for the organizations, but do not necessarily imply a demonstrated complete equivalence either.

Unfortunately, the weight difference of steel vs aluminum is frequently overstated. Steel may be considerably more dense than aluminum, but used correctly in a thinner gauge it is not nearly as much so as often implied while still being stronger. Granted, there are also further practical limitations for welding the steel as well. Is there realistically going to be a weight penalty? Absolutely. Is it necessarily going to ruin the lightweight nature of the car? Absolutely not. I figure that there is roughly a whopping 15 pound difference, at a CoG helping height, between an 18ga steel and 16ga aluminum floor under the cockpit area. My personal 'common sense' says that realistically I would have enjoyed one of these cars just as much 15 pounds ago as I would now...and no less so than if I drop another 15 pounds.

Standard practice should by no means be used to imply best practice for any given set of conditions. That's why discussions like this, where we can get multiple different points of view on a topic, even if there are points of civilized disagreement, are something to be encouraged.

On a final note: Colin Chapman did not exactly design his cars with an overt emphasis on safety, or reliability, so that does not necessarily make his the ideal model to follow in all regards either.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 7:58 pm 
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Sam, repeated saying I claim to be an expert won’t make it appear in any of my posts. I hope you are right about the fires, but I think some of these folks would disagree with you:
http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nati ... /16530225/

Most light aircraft are generally steel tube and aluminum like a locost and sometimes composite, wood, and or fabric. They have a thin steel firewall as required. Like real cars versus cars, they don’t always crash at a track with people around to help or have asbestos underwear. Yeah, aluminum will transfer that heat better than steel into the interior before the skin melts. Burning composites are also very hazardous to the lungs.

Regarding your comments about tradesmen not being stupid enough to think they could be you, anything you pay them to build, they can build for themselves. They don’t need you to think for them. You made it sound as though they are your pets. You guys still have tradesman guilds that say what they can and can't do, right?

Most stoves here can hit 600 F.

Tucker, can you not see the hypocrisy of trying to give me etiquette lessons. Isn’t that the definition of “talking out your ass”? At any rate, I offered to discuss it with you by PM but you declined. You don’t know my prior relationship to anybody but you, but go ahead and cast judgment. I’ve been doing this since there have been automotive forums online. You must have been about 7 years old.

I will apologize to Geek, as a few years ago we were going at it, he PM'd me, and I deleted it without even reading it, then said not to pm me. Sorry Geek.

Anybody that wants to discuss anything with me should feel free to pm me, and I will look at it. Even from Sam!

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 9:05 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Sam, repeated saying I claim to be an expert won’t make it appear in any of my posts.

Apart from this one, you mean? :D

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I hope you are right about the fires, but I think some of these folks would disagree with you:

Well, I must admit, that's a nice pic of an entirely undamaged aluminium structure sitting in the middle of an inferno. Even the paintwork is barely scorched.

Image

Sorry, Remind me of the point you were trying to make?

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Regarding your comments about tradesmen not being stupid enough to think they could be you, anything you pay them to build, they can build for themselves. They don’t need you to think for them. You made it sound as though they are your pets. You guys still have tradesman guilds that say what they can and can't do, right?

No,we don't have tradesmens guilds any more. They disappeared decades ago, around when we all stopped living in castles and burning witches.

We don't have people with pompous, pretend titles like 'Master ASE' either - we just call them Automotive Technicians, and their equivalent route to qualification is by means of exams known as NVQ's. The authorities would have you believe that stands for 'National Vocational Qualification', but anyone in business will tell you that it's really 'Not Very Qualified'.

Yes, tradesmen can build for themselves, but when they start believing that they can design for themselves, this is the sort of thing you can end up with (though admittedly only in the most delusional cases):

Image
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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 9:19 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
...Without cutting open the lower chassis tubes on a variety of well used older cars, you'll never know just what the insides of the tubes look like by comparsion. So it's all just speculation and opinions based on each persons differing experiences.


I'm over at the workshop tomorrow morning. If I remember, I'll take some photos that might interest you.


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PostPosted: February 24, 2016, 3:40 am 
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botbasher wrote:
gavin_eakins wrote:
I suggest an aluminium floor NOT riveted. Just bond it on with Sikaflex; it's not going to come off.
Gavin,

How do you manage to make sure the two parts are pressed together securely on a larger area, say floor pan or bulkhead? Just weights and framework to add pressure?



I agree that bonding is a good option, but without a solid joining between the two, I predict it'll suffer premature failures.

Maybe do rivets in corners, mid-points and higher stress to assure adhesion?

K "interested" S


G'Day botbasher,

For the floor, I had the frame upside down. Prepped both ali sheet & tubes with the Sikaflex products. Put in enough Sikaflex to leave ~2mm thick, then loaded the whole thing with bricks. I've since had to smash the floor with a hammer for relief around a bolt head (didn't allow enough space for spanner) & the 2mm thick ali bent enough, but didn't separate at all.

As for rivets in the corner, I agree with you. I did exactly that, to avoid peel. I understand that the aircraft fellows call them "chicken rivets". i.e. You put them in even though you don't really need them, because you're a chicken. So the whole floor ended up with 10 rivets, from memory.

If nothing else, it's a helluva lot less work than rivetting all over.

Hope that helps.

Cheers - Gavin


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PostPosted: February 24, 2016, 7:51 am 
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Gavin,
Do you recall which Sikaflex products you used? I checked one distributors site and found a lot of different products to chose from.
Ron

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PostPosted: February 25, 2016, 9:04 am 
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Ok, thanks Sam, great stuff as usual. So there are no trade unions in the UK. I’ll file that away with the other pearls. Your pageantry and showmanship are always appreciated.

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Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 25, 2016, 9:26 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
So there are no trade unions in the UK.

Yes, we still have Trades Unions, though they're not anything like as popular or powerful as they used to be, and are mainly there to support unskilled and blue-collar workers.

A Trade Union is nothing like a Guild, though: Trades Unions are there to protect and promote employee rights and working conditions. Trade Guilds were there to maintain standards and enhance the reputation of the trade. Very different things.

We still have professional organisations for professionals (Architects, Doctors, Lawyers, Chartered Engineers, etc.), but the traditional Guilds system for craftsmen has long since fallen into disuse and apprenticeships are now replaced by the Government-administered Not Very Qualifications. There never would have been a 'Guild' for a semi-skilled trade like an automotive mechanic/technician, though - Guilds were for skilled craftsmen.

There are lots of Trade Associations that try to do the job that the Guilds used to do, of promoting their industry and setting standards, but with few exceptions they don't hold much credibility, and rely on NVQ's as their benchmark for training and qualifications. NVQ's replaced the old 'City and Guilds' exams (which, as the name suggests, were administered at a local level and hence varied in quality regionally, and according to trade). NVQ's were intended to give consistency at a national level, and as much comparative parity as could be achieved across widely differing skilled and semi-skilled trades and occupations.

Hope that helps.


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PostPosted: February 25, 2016, 6:55 pm 
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It does actually. There is only so much information online in finding out what it is like to live in another country.

I disagree about the capabilities of auto mechanics or anybody who picks up a stack of engineering books, studies, performs lab tests and modeling, along with FEA simulation and not just a "how to" video. This is a hobby after all, and I've known a few engineers who only got into it for the money but have no mechanical ability or inclination, also know as "book smart" with no common sense, but it doesn't matter because they have no interest in this sort of thing.

However, I guess it was about a year ago, I did say something nasty to you that I forgot about. I said you were about as interesting to me as a clogged toilet is to a plumber. I was way out of line for saying that no matter what you'd been saying to me at the time. It now makes sense to me why you have been acting like this. I apologize.

:cheers:

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: February 26, 2016, 8:18 am 
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STranger 7 wrote:
Gavin,
Do you recall which Sikaflex products you used? I checked one distributors site and found a lot of different products to chose from.
Ron


Ron,

I'll try & squeeze this in between all the aggro.
One of our guys, Pat, over here got these directions from Sikaflex techs. I followed it & it worked well.

Cheers - Gavin

If using Sikaflex 252, which is the strongest of the polyurethanes for this purpose, you must have regard for the surfaces to be adhered.

If you are sticking new aluminium sheet to new steel, you do not need the primer mentioned in the following steps.

The first rule is KEEP IT CLEAN! This cannot be emphasised enough.

You will need:
Colma Cleaner, Sika Aktivator, Sika Primer 206 G & P (unless using new steel and ali), burgundy Scotchbrite.

1. Clean both surfaces to be adhered. You can adhere to paint but the end joint obviously then relies on the strength of the paint bond. Cleaning is best done with an abrasive.

2. Wipe both surfaces off with Colma Cleaner (a Sika Product)

3. Abrade both surfaces with Scotchbrite.

4. Wipe again with Colma Cleaner using new cloth or tissues

5. Apply Sika Aktivator with tissues. A clean one to wipe on and a clean one to wipe off.

6. Apply a thin coat of Primer 206 G & P (if necessary).

7. When primer has dried, apply bead of Sika 252 and join the surfaces. 252 is most effective when it has a gap of about 2-3 millimetres and this can be achieved with spacers such as furniture buffers etc. Do not move surfaces until Sikaflex has cured. When you buy the Sikaflex, get a Material Data Sheet with it and it will give you strengths and cure time under different conditions.

I know all this looks a bit anal but if you wish to have a joint that WILL NOT let go, then do it!


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PostPosted: February 26, 2016, 12:27 pm 
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gavin_eakins wrote:

Ron,

I'll try & squeeze this in between all the aggro.
One of our guys, Pat, over here got these directions from Sikaflex techs. I followed it & it worked well.

Cheers - Gavin

. . . <SNIP> . . .

I know all this looks a bit anal but if you wish to have a joint that WILL NOT let go, then do it!


Thank you for digging up that information, Gavin.

I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.

1) Did the Sikaflex ooze from the joint between the floor and chassis tubes under the pressure of the bricks?

2) If so, does it dry hard like epoxy, or is it flexible and there's some way to trim it (or clean it) off afterwords?

Whether steel or aluminum is used, it does seem like Sikaflex is an attractive alternative to riveting or welding the floor in place.

Cheers,

[EDIT] Spelling error

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PostPosted: February 26, 2016, 1:01 pm 
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Note the recommendation for having a 2-3mm gap. 3mm ~ = 1/8".

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PostPosted: February 26, 2016, 2:05 pm 
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I searched and you can buy large quantities of plastic beads, 3 millimeter, for very little cost. Even a small quantity of these mixed in or put on the bead of adhesive would make clamping it to the right height easy with just weights.

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