LocostUSA.com

Good evening to all! I have been a member for several years, but have been somewhat silent for a while as I have relocated from Tennessee, back to Florida. Story to follow. I am, as far as the "frame" goes, starting over, and looking into the Sevenesque/McSorley +442e. I was just on their site and noticed in the info #4, it explains about the 4"x4"x2" increases, but notes that the "cockpit" would be relatively "book" sized. Am I overlooking something? I thought that the cockpit would be 4" wider and 2" taller? Thanks, Don OK....Sorry, I guess I got lazy. I just found "Blackbirds'" explanation from 2009. Very well done...thank you Blackbird!

Welcome back. Do tell us, what did Blackbird say? What are thinking about 7 vs. Locost etc. approaches? I think you can sit on the build table and build any of these to the right size to suit you. In the end you need to cut many tubes to fit, like diagonals etc.

If you street the car IRS is a good thing and we some pictures of a 7 that came from the factory that way..

_________________
Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

Good evening Markus, and thanks for responding. Actually, Blackbirb led me to the McSorley Site, where they talk of the differences of the " Book Chassis", and the McSorley 400, 442 and the 442e. I have my frame about 1/3 complete(from the Chris Gibbs book, but I ended up with a 1976, Chevy 350, that I completely rebuilt to mild race.....somebody wanted to buy my pick up without the engine, so I have a "brand new" SBC, app. 350-375 HP (I know, not needed in a 7) but no electronics needed to purchase, a true "plug and play". Anyway, I was thinking that I should redo the frame with 1.250"x 14 ga., which would be a lot stronger, and while at it, might as well add a little room. I think that I really only need the room under the hood. Still trying to get enough info to make a decision as to what to do about the frame. I already have a T'bird IRS. Thanks again, Don

Hey Don
1.250" tubing is what I used for my V8 build.
My advise to you is get your drive train in order and build your frame around it.
I raised the sides of the frame 2" from the 442 specs on the TBird Locost in order to keep clean lines on the bonnet. With the wide stance of the rear diff the proportion seemed to fit.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Good evening, and thank you Perry. Yes, all I need is the tranny. I am starting to feel a lot more comfortable about my decision to "redo" the frame. Thanks, Don

I used 1.25", 16 gauge for my 442E frame with a Ford 302. It's not road legal yet, but I have no worries about it not being strong enough.

_________________
Trochu Motor League

Thank you, Trochu. I'm probably going a little over strong, but I think I will be using 1.250x 14ga. I feel that the little extra weight will be worth it for the "strength". Don

You know the story here Don, lots of pics, lots and lots of pics, I like build (or rebuild) pics.

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle