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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 24, 2021, 8:08 pm 
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I want to build a lotus 49 and be in a low cost, for that reason I am gonna fabricate my own chassis and use a Toyota 2gr-fe engine, I would like to use an transaxle but I am not sure which transmission would fit the engine in a longitudinal setup, and I am going to put the engine in a mid-engine configuration.
I would really appreciate your guys answers and opinions.


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PostPosted: May 27, 2021, 8:19 am 
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I'd use a subie transaxle and adapt. I don't know of any bolt-on oem longitudinal transaxles for that engine.

I take that back. I'd use the subie flat 6 engine instead. Why make it more difficult than it has to be?

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PostPosted: May 27, 2021, 9:10 am 
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Likely not to fit the Locost ethos, but this engine was used in the Lotus Exige/Evora, so the trans from one of those could be an option?


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PostPosted: May 27, 2021, 9:15 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I take that back. I'd use the subie flat 6 engine instead. Why make it more difficult than it has to be?


Building something that looks remotely like a Lotus 49 would be somewhat difficult using a flat-6, given they came with a V8 DFV. Now a Ferrari 312B, that's doable.

The other issue to consider when trying to make a reasonable duplicate of any F1 of that era is there is no chassis behind the rear bulkhead. The engine was a stressed member (and designed as one) and held the engine/gearbox/suspension. So you'd have to try and duplicate that with an engine NOT designed to be a stressed member of the chassis. Not sure if that could be safely done.

If you just want a vaguely "late 60's F1" look... a rear chassis won't hurt. If you really want it to look like a specific car, that's another level of difficulty.


Last edited by Rennkafer on May 27, 2021, 3:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: May 27, 2021, 1:40 pm 
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Thank you for your answers, I had not thought of using a Subaru engine but now I think it would be a great idea, but it would be harder to make it look like a lotus 49 as mentioned, but it would make it easier to build and probably less costly. I would use a ladder chassis in the bottom of the engine and transmission and use the engine and transmission to support the torsional tension.


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PostPosted: May 27, 2021, 3:40 pm 
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raf-05 wrote:
Thank you for your answers, I had not thought of using a Subaru engine but now I think it would be a great idea, but it would be harder to make it look like a lotus 49 as mentioned, but it would make it easier to build and probably less costly. I would use a ladder chassis in the bottom of the engine and transmission and use the engine and transmission to support the torsional tension.


Switch to a Ferrari 312B... had a flat 12 originally. No one will miss the other 6 cylinders. :D :D


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PostPosted: May 27, 2021, 11:55 pm 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
What about the golf or audi that has longitudinal motor FWD?

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PostPosted: May 28, 2021, 8:30 am 
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Bent, I’m sure that would work too, I just don’t know much about them.

Dodge also had a longitudinal fwd v6 config but it was only offered as an automatic (Egoman build).

Jamador, Lotus is transverse, not longitudinal.

I’d look for a complete running subie car with the H6 and six speed manual that has been totaled due to a rear-end collision.

Are you reusing the uprights and is a parking brake needed? The actual wheel bearings in the hubs look to be the same front and rear (measure & check bearing PNs) but the carrier bolt pattern is different. The wheel hub flanges look interchangeable front and rear except the fronts are splined for the larger front cv stub. If so, I would swap the rears for fronts to accept the front axles while keeping the rear rotors and calipers without modification. The length of the front and rear wheel hub flanges would need to be compared and machined if needed so the rotor position in the upright is unchanged. Very cost effective over custom axles to accept the smaller outer cv joints used at the rear, aftermarket racing calipers with no dust seals, and less work than custom uprights.

If there is no need for a parking brake, I’d use the same uprights and brakes front and rear with the original master cyl and a universal, adjustable, knob-type prop valve where the driver can reach it easily. When obtaining the extra set of front uprights and brakes, have them include the axles so you can reuse the outer stub cup to clamp the wheel flanges to the upright through the bearings.

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PostPosted: May 28, 2021, 11:00 am 
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Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Fox was the other VAG model I was thinking of.
but probably the same trans.

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