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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 18, 2022, 12:38 pm 
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Location: San Dimas, CA
Thanks.

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PostPosted: September 20, 2022, 11:24 am 
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I have got a MX5 starter, and it even works with the Ford's flex plate.
Also, I have picked up a Mazda 6 alternator, and it mounts on the exhaust side of the engine.

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PostPosted: November 9, 2022, 11:08 pm 
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Joined: January 5, 2011, 11:09 pm
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Location: Easley, SC
Adding a bit to the discussion: I’m using a 2010 2.0 Focus Duratec PZEV engine, it is mounted rotated 10 degrees and bolts cleanly to the 2008 Miata NC 6 speed manual trans., which then has the shifter vertical. To keep a low profile on the bonnet I opted for the Jenvey 45 ITB’s but with the intake manifold that is also rotated 10 degrees to match the engine.
I used a clutch and flywheel from an NC Miata to match the trans input shaft. I had to source new Mazda flywheel bolts as my engine arrived with a flex plate for an auto trans. The starter I bought was for a Focus and at first it seemed to be a perfect fit (from appearances). However upon rotating the engine a few times by hand to wash some fresh oil along the cylinders, I noticed some clicking noises and progressive tightness. Upon examining everything I found this Focus starter was winding out it’s drivegear and binding on the flywheel. Replaced it with the NC Miata starter solved the problem.
I always seem to have to learn the hard way…. so lesson learned.
Skidzzz

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PostPosted: November 15, 2022, 12:30 pm 
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Did you install the engine, to see if the oil pan would stick out much at the bottom?
What kind of diff you will be using?
Do you guys think that with the right wheel size(to drop the RPMs), I could use an RX8 diff(early RX8, 4.44 ratio)?
NC LSDs are expensive. I'm looking for a cheaper LSD solution, for a 2.5L Duratec+6 sp NC transmission setup.

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PostPosted: November 15, 2022, 4:40 pm 
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
With a 25" tire (225/45R17) you would have similar gearing to the Mazdaspeed Miata I owned, albeit with a considerably better power to weight ratio. It's not going to be for everybody. I found it actually kind of fun to always be running it through the gears around town, and it's generally liveable for an occasional use toy. It mostly leaves something to be desired for highway use, running 3500+rpm at 70mph, and autox involves a LOT of shifting or just leaving it in 3rd. The 09+ variant would help slightly on the highway, but not all that much.

If using NC/RX8 rear spindles it sounds like the easy button, if nothing else until a lower ratio NC diff comes along. Alternatively, what about mixing and matching between an open NC diff and LSD RX8 diff?

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PostPosted: November 16, 2022, 12:39 pm 
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If I would go with a 26" tire it should help with the RPM, right? 245/45/17 is 26.6", and it would rev at 3495, which is very close to the factory spec. Can I use automatic transmission diff?
I'm using this calculator:
https://walter-motorsports.com/gearing-calculator
Also, how it would afect the RPMs, if I would go staggered wheels? I don't really need a wide wheel at the front.
I don't know, if the internals can be interchanged. The RX8 gears are not bigger?

I'm making engine parts, like EGR block off plate, engine mount flanges, replaced the oil dipstick, with a small aluminum button style "handle", today I will make the balance shaft delete plug/bracket.
To do list is the side breather plate block off plate, need to figure out the coolant system and fabricate what I need. I'm following the GBS Youtube video, with the blue ATR products. I'm trying to replicate them, at least some of them.
Anybody has some pictures with these engines in more detail, like which sensor where it is located, cooling system routing(which port is which-inlet/outlet, also what are all the smaller ports for). I'm thinking about making my own ITB system, from a bike ITBs. I'm thinking about using Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10R, or BMW S1000R. I will make my own manifold, and most likely will need to purchase some trumpets(25mm).
Any help would be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjsO3wAbcjk&t=306s

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PostPosted: November 22, 2022, 7:46 pm 
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Location: San Dimas, CA
Anybody could help me out, with this Duratec engine(2.5L 4 cylinder), to learn about what has to be modified on it, for street use?
Any experiences would be helpful as well, what worked, or didn't type of ideas.
- I have already shortened the oil filler cap/neck, by cutting off the plastic neck and machined a threaded bushing, which I have JB welded it in there. Also machined a cap for it.
- Replaced the oil dipstick handle, with a low profile Aluminum button style handle.
- Machined an EGR block off plate.
- Removed the balance shaft, and machined the parts to block off the oil passage.
- Machined engine mount flanges(.25" thick)
I need help with the cooling system inlet/outlet port options, breather block off plate on the side of the engine, etc.

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PostPosted: December 28, 2022, 10:53 pm 
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Great thread with lots of great info, even if it is approaching 10 years old now! As I'm sure many of you know, Quad4rods no longer exists, nor does their T-5 bell for the Duratec/MZR. However, Retroford in the UK is considering producing one. If at all interested, I'd suggest dropping them a line expressing interest... www.retroford.co.uk/


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