LocostUSA.com

Found this picture from Raceland(UK), that is exactly how I have it, but I have figured that out on my own:



KB58, I thought that the PCV has to be a closed system, no? A catch can is considered a closed system?

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Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

It is a closed system on OEM cars. You on the other hand, via SB100, are free to do whatever you want, but it does need doing*. You're free to get rid of it in a polite way via an entire PCV system, or a catch can, or nothing. The catch can isn't a closed system either because there is excess gases that must be vented from the catch can, typically (on race cars) through a hose to below the car.

*It must be eliminated one way or another because if the crankcase is sealed, the pressure will continue increasing, pushing oil past gaskets at the least, or even push out the gasket itself to relieve the pressure.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Food for thought:
If you open an online store selling bras, does that make you an expert on tits?
Perhaps that education could be written off as a business expense.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Just make sure that the water pump ends up turning the same direction as the OEM installation, because most pumps are designed to spin only one direction.
I'm not sure whether the direction of rotation matters for the alternator. Electrically it won't, but mechanically, it may if the design counts on rotation for brush wear reasons.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

My front case does not allow the belt to be run like that. from the top right I have to run it down to an idler then over to the alternator, then to the 2nd idler and down to the crank.

On other note I confirmed that my NC 2006 5-speed drive shaft does match the bolt spacing on the NB rear differential. For the front diff mount I am welding a plate onto the flat spot where the PPF would attach, then using an energy suspension chassis mount.

Don't know if this applies, when I had my driveshaft shortened & rebuilt it turns out they didn't use a single part from the original. Apparently the Mazda joints aren't serviceable. They had access to a flange and slip yoke that use serviceable solid-core Dodge U-joints.

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Peace, Ron

sounds like an excuse for a 800 dollar drive shaft.

Substantially incorrect.

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Peace, Ron

RTZ is correct.
When I have driveshafts made for the Mazda NA transmissions and NB Miata diffs, I specify the components to use from the PowerTrain Industries Catalog:

https://www.powertrainindustries.com/ca ... _parts.htm

Transmission Yoke: #2603-22

Diff. Flange Yoke: #2602-37


Paid $500 for the latest one in the Bugeye Sprite.
Hope this info will be useful for you.

I was just hoping it wasn't the case. I am needing to do the driveshaft sometime soon. Sounds like your saying it is easier to order a full custom one.

Also:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1807&p=14595&hilit=staked#p14595

You'll find with some searching that they made a hodgepodge replacement joint to fit the oem miata yokes but I don't know how well it worked or if they still sell them. The driveshaft parts and tubing are cheap, so if you have a floor press, it is possible to get the weld yokes square in the tubes to weld. Then, if you want, you can have the assembly spin balanced for about $100 depending on where you live. Old school was to hang hose clamps and tedious testing. I prefer to go to a heavy truck shop where they build driveshafts daily and the cost is much less with a same-day turn around.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

what trans and rear end are those for? I think the yolk is different for the NC 5 speed

Transmission yoke 2603-22 fits FC RX7 NA and NB Miata 5-spd. Check the NC output shaft dimensions to see if it's 22-spline with an OD of 0.959 inches.
The 2602-37 diff flange fits FC RX7 NA and NB Miata with 1.8 liter. The specs are 3.786 bolt circle and a 1.772 pilot diameter.


Hint:
If you find that the spec on your parts are different, go through the listings to find a match that is also indicated as fitting a Mazda ( they don't always give model ).

Yes I will have to take a look at my driveshaft splines since the 2006 output splines are different I eyeballed my NC drive shaft up to the NB diff and it looked to be a match.

I found a local driveshaft shop so I just need to figure out the NC spline.

UPDATE: Dropped the driveshaft off and they have a slip yolk on order to verify a match, and we will be doing a full custom driveshaft using serviceable dodge joints. I would have considered just shortening my drive shaft, however it turned out that neither joints were smooth.