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Is anyone using a Raceline water rail on a Duratec/MZR engine. I just received mine, and I see you must remove two mounting bosses from the cylinder head to install it. One of those bosses is the attachment for the rear ring fitting used to lift the engine when installing and removing it. If you have the water rail installed, how do you attach the rear chain from a hoist to lift the engine?

Jerry Henneman

Is it a small enough interference you might be able to 'massage' one or both to get them to play nice together, or is it a full 'there can be only one' situation?

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

Hi Justin. It's a one or the other situation, but I think I found a solution. I should be able to move the lifting ring fitting to one of the transmission bellhousing attach bolts and use an extension of sorts.

Jerry

Looking at my engine I had 3 main thoughts. First I thought about lifting on the water rail would be strong enough to use, but then thought nah better not. Next I considered if you were running sans EGR you could use those bolts, but then she'd hang pretty lop-sided with both eyes effectively on the same side. And finally I was eyeing up that ~3 o'clock belhousing bolt hole that's near enough to directly below the current location and looks to be just far enough to the rear and side to avoid both the water rail and exhaust manifold...So looks like you beat me to it!

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

I’ve been told the race line water rail wasn’t a good fit for my setup - please post your experience.

Regarding engin hoist rings: I removed them long ago. Unsightly, useless, and too close to the bonnet.
When removing / replacing my engine (all too frequently) I found a strap placed around the engine just behind the oil filter adapted/4th cylinder is the balance point. I tension my lift and unbolt everything: then lower engine & gearbox (can’t separate them in the car) onto a dolly.

The radiator on my Birkin has the input on the intake side of the engine so i just ran a silicon hose with the necessary aluminum tubing bends just above the fuel rail to the small coolant manifold at the back of the head. The Raceline rail only really works for these radiators with an inlet on the exhaust side of the motor.

Thanks for your input everyone. A friend of mine who is a metal fabricator took a look at my engine and recommended that I NOT cut the two bosses off the head.
I've already got an outlet, made by Cosworth, that mounts on the coolant outlet on the back of the engine and routes to a 1.5 dia. hose facing to the right. I can use a coolant with a 90 degree elbow to route the coolant forward and to a header tank at the front of the engine. I had decided not to use it because I didn't want to route a flexible hose above the exhaust manifold, but I think that I can alleviate that problem with a heat shield. I'll post photos if it works out.
The outlet is the short one pictured on page 19 of the Cosworth Duratec parts catalog: http://www.rolandalsop.com/images/durat ... alogue.pdf

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Jerry Henneman

Jack of many trades
Master of unfinished projects
build blog/log at https://jerryslocost.wordpress.com

I'm trying to remember: Was there another reason you didn't go with the Ranger water rail, other than the existence of the Raceline piece?

…I just so happen to have one that's not currently being used, if it would benefit your build.

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-Justin

"Orville Wright did not have a pilots license." - Gordon MacKenzie

Justin. Sure. I'll trade my aluminum cam cover for your water rail.

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Jerry Henneman

Jack of many trades
Master of unfinished projects
build blog/log at https://jerryslocost.wordpress.com