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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 10:54 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
There may be a 10 degree tilt, toward the passenger side.
Fixed that for you... And if those any teletubbers you're watching doesn't also show (or at the very least make note of) installing the (10 degree tilted) NC 2.0 oil pan and pickup tube (among other things) onto the 2.5 before dropping it in the car, and explain why, then you need to find a better [informed] channel to follow.

https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8303

Yes, the 1.6 and 1.8 Miata engines are your options for your current transmission. Many Locosts have been built with those engines, and they are readily supercharged or turbocharged to more 'desirable' power levels... If you really think you need it.

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Last edited by Driven5 on September 1, 2021, 10:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 10:58 am 
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You are right about that. I have rewatched some of those videos, and I have noticed that as well.If the engine is tilted 10 degrees, that wouldn't work in a Locost?

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 11:01 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
You are right about that. I have rewatched some of those videos, and I have noticed that as well.If the engine is tilted 10 degrees, that wouldn't work in a Locost?


No reason it wouldn't, provided there's enough width. There are V6/V8's in 442 chassis, so a slightly tilted inline 4 ought to be fine. I'd find an NC to measure, the chassis plans are readily available.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 11:12 am 
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I'm leaning toward the Vodou chassis, since it is complete and it is made for a Miata rear end.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 1:09 pm 
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tibimakai wrote:
I'm leaning toward the Vodou chassis, since it is complete and it is made for a Miata rear end.


The Vodou (and Saturn) are just Haynes Roadster chassis with mods specific to the Miata parts. So if I recall correctly larger than the original book chassis but smaller than a 442 (I'd have to go look at the drawings again, been a while). Just have to measure up an NC to be it would fit as I said before.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 1:49 pm 
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I would prefer the 442E, but I'm a first timer, with no experience with any kind of car building(worked on a 1500 68' VW bug, build an engine from scratch-purchased all the parts here and shipped the finished engine in Europe), and I'm not sure, if I'm ready to modify that chassis with the Vodou rear end.
My ideal setup would be, a 442E chassis with Miata rear end.
The 442E is 46"(1168 mm= B1) and the Vodou is 44"(1118 mm= LR12) wide. I'm willing to take that "hit", for a complete set of drawings.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 2:12 pm 
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An NB Torsen diff. would work for me, right? Somebody is selling one for $300.

Thanks Driven5 for that link. I will read it.
When I have seen that oil pan, and oil pickup change, it sounded great and easy, but I have asked myself right away, what happens with less oil been in there.

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PostPosted: September 2, 2021, 11:19 am 
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If you're working from plans that are based around a Miata donor... I'd be looking for a Miata donor.

If that $300 NB diff can be verified as being Torsen equipped, buy it! It's worth well more than that even fi you end up not needing it. Otherwise, at that price, it's likely open... In which case, see above.

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PostPosted: September 2, 2021, 11:26 am 
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The diff is already gone, unfortunately.
The diff does not have to match the transmission? If the Trans is NC the diff can be NB, or NC?
I also see, that breakers are pointing out, if a diff is for an auto trans, or manual trans. That matters?
I know to look for one, that has the rubber damper behind the driveshaft flange, and the Torsen has a very small through hole, through the diff.

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PostPosted: September 3, 2021, 9:45 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
The diff is already gone, unfortunately.
The diff does not have to match the transmission? If the Trans is NC the diff can be NB, or NC?
I also see, that breakers are pointing out, if a diff is for an auto trans, or manual trans. That matters?
I know to look for one, that has the rubber damper behind the driveshaft flange, and the Torsen has a very small through hole, through the diff.



Either way you'll have to have a driveshaft made so it wouldn't be difficult for the driveshaft shop to make it NC spec on one end and NA/NB on the other.

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PostPosted: September 3, 2021, 1:04 pm 
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automatic or manual may be a ratio difference?

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PostPosted: September 3, 2021, 1:34 pm 
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Bent Wrench wrote:
automatic or manual may be a ratio difference?


All NA differentials were either 4.3 (early 1.6 cars) or 4.1 (later 1.8 cars). Same for automatic or manual. Automatics never had limited slips though, only manual cars had them. NB's I suspect are the same, though I don't know that for sure. NC's I have no idea.

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PostPosted: September 3, 2021, 2:05 pm 
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Which one should I buy? NB Torsion?

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PostPosted: September 3, 2021, 2:56 pm 
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tibimakai wrote:
Which one should I buy? NB Torsion?


Doesn't really matter as long as you stay away from the early 90-93 1.6 differentials. NA/NB 1.8's all used the same ring gear size though they went through two different Torsen types plus another LSD variant in the NB's. The 1.8 diffs are pretty solid up through about 400hp assuming you don't wheel hop them drag racing.

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PostPosted: September 3, 2021, 3:00 pm 
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2006 and newer won't work? It seems like they have different mounting hardware/arm.

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