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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 12:01 am 
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I want to start with a mistake that I have already made, it was an impulse buy. I have purchased a 1990 Miata manual transmission. Owner claimed, that only has 55k miles.
I'm considering buying a Ford 2.5L Duratec engine(175hp/175tq). I have selected one from a dismantler in my area. I can get it for $300 with 69k miles and no warranty, since I can't provide a VIN number. The seller is on Ebay as well, and has a 100% feedback.
Car it's been in a frontal crash, here are the pictures:
https://en.bidfax.info/ford/fusion/7858 ... 23247.html
Would you buy this engine?
If I understand correctly, this engine should match up with the NC Miata transmission.
I don't want to make another mistake, by buying the wrong transmission, or differential, that is why I ask for help here.
I understand, that I should pick up a NC Miata manual transmission, which is 2005-2015, right?
How about the differential? I don't know anything about this. Should match the transmission, should be an NC as well, or can be an earlier version as well, but it has to be for a 1.8L version(7" pinion gear).
It will be a street/weekend car.
Any help would be appreciated.

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Last edited by tibimakai on August 31, 2021, 6:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 7:21 am 
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Give yourself a break. Buy an 03-up duratec 5spd ranger. Put a 95-up miata front suspension and complete rear subframe in the bed. Start building a 442e. Scrap the rest.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 8:10 am 
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Have you checked out this post

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14753

Graham


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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 1:03 pm 
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I have, but I did not became much smarter.
So, it seems like it would mate up, but the engine, or the transmission could be at 10 degree off from the vertical plane?

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 1:56 pm 
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I wouldn't call a 1990 Miata transmission a mistake. But if you want to go Duratec, then it's a 2001.5+ 2.3L Ranger 5 speed or NC Miata 5 or 6 speed. NC Miata started 2006 model year. A 2005 transmission for a Duratec would actually be a mistake. Yes, keeping the engine vertical will tilt the transmission 10* toward the driver side. Or you can lean the engine over 10* like an NC, especially with an NC oil pan/pickup. Or you can split the difference by some amount.

The easy button for driveshaft and differential would be a shortened NC driveshaft and NC differential. However, that also probably means you'll want to use NC axles and uprights too. The challenge there becoming that the uprights are designed for a significantly more complicated to implement multi-link setup. The easy button for the multi-link suspension is to incorporate the stock rear subframe, which complicates the chassis design and proportions. Alternatively, a custom driveshaft can be mated just about any differential and rear suspension of your choosing and sourcing. This is but one rabbit hole you're facing going down as an introduction to why going with a single vehicle donor is the most common practice.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 2:10 pm 
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Thanks for all that. Info like this is very helpful.
What are my options with the NA transmission? Only a 1.6L and 1.8L Mazda engine would work with it?

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Last edited by tibimakai on September 4, 2021, 5:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 4:48 pm 
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tibimakai wrote:
Thanks for all that. Info like this is very helpful.
What are my options with the NA transmission? Only a 1.6L and 1.8L Mazda engine?

I believe a 13B will work, with a bellhousing swap.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 5:20 pm 
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Thanks, but I'm not willing to go that route.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 6:20 pm 
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There's also this option for a gearbox: https://www.rx8gearboxadapters.com/product-page/ford-duratec-2-0-2-3l

Though I'm not well versed on the Duratec, is the 2.5 bellhousing pattern the same as the smaller units?


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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 6:45 pm 
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I see some people on Youtube, who are swapping out the Miata 2.0L engine, with a 2.5L Duratec engine, and I don't believe that the engines are off by 10 degree.
There may be a slight tilt, toward the passenger side.

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PostPosted: August 31, 2021, 11:02 pm 
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JAMADOR wrote:
tibimakai wrote:
Thanks for all that. Info like this is very helpful.
What are my options with the NA transmission? Only a 1.6L and 1.8L Mazda engine?

I believe a 13B will work, with a bellhousing swap.


Miata gearboxes (NA and NB) don't have removable bellhousings.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 8:31 am 
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If you aren't set on a front-engine layout, there's always the mid-engine approach, using an entire FWD assembly behind the seats.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 8:38 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
I (watch) Youtube, and I don't believe (you).


:lol: Brilliant! What a helpful post!

It wouldn't be the first time you asked for help then argued.
Nobody is trying to convince you of anything.

When soliciting information, try listening to everybody trying to help then do what you want to do.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 10:21 am 
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I'm not arguing, I'm just pointing out that I have seen people with NC Miatas, replacing their Mazda engines with the Ford engines without issues.
I was hoping to make a car, that will have around 240-250hp, but I have realized that I'm a beginner and my budget is tight, so I'm willing to settle for now, for something with less power, something that is readily available and is cheap.
That is why I'm considering this engine.

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PostPosted: September 1, 2021, 10:53 am 
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tibimakai wrote:
I'm not arguing, I'm just pointing out that I have seen people with NC Miatas, replacing their Mazda engines with the Ford engines without issues.
I was hoping to make a car, that will have around 240-250hp, but I have realized that I'm a beginner and my budget is tight, so I'm willing to settle for now, for something with less power, something that is readily available and is cheap.
That is why I'm considering this engine.



Despite what you think you may have seen on Youtube, the NC Miata engine IS tilted 10 degrees to the right.

https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a18202275/2006-mazda-mx-5-miata-review/

From the Car and Driver article...
"The system has a large intake manifold, so Mazda had to tilt the engine 10 degrees to squeeze it in. The company says at least 90 percent of peak torque (140 pound-feet) is available from 2500 rpm upward.

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Last edited by Rennkafer on September 1, 2021, 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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